Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2008 - Possible To Upgrade Stock Stereo To Touchscreen Stock?
Jul 6, 2014
i just got a 2008 FEH 100K paid 11500 out the door 12800 is that a good deal? everything is clean. It has the upgraded sound system but i noticed that some feh have the mpg displayed on the screen it look like the feh with navigation not sure if this is seperate from nav or just part of touch screen. in any case is it possible to just install the stock dvd/nav stereo to get the mpg avg screen? if so is ther a guide
also is there a good read around here for new feh owners? looking to get the most mpg out of this ride.
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what do i need to start playing my ipod on the stock monsoon stereo? I am looking to charge and play at the same time, what do I need?
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This morning I'm heading to work and noticed that my local radio station was broadcasting WAAAAYYYYY too much bass. It sounded like I had turned up the bass all the way and turned everything else down. The volume level was reasonable, but the bass was rattling the doors and causing distortion as if the volume was all the way up.
I changed the station and it seemed better when I came back, so I just thought it was a glitch at the radio station. Then it started again. I tried all other means of playing music and they were all affected. Just to see what would happen, I shut off the engine at a light and started it back up. This seems to have corrected the problem. Now I'm nervous though. This is the sort of random malfunction that made me hesitant to buy German.
My car is a 2011 4dr GTI w/autobahn package.
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About 1 week ago my stock stereo started buzzing very loudly at random times. I happens with radio, aux and cd. Also here is a link to a video of it happening, skip to the last 10 seconds.BUZZ
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I have an 03 golf with the double din tape/cd player and what appears to be an amplifier in the hatch on the drivers side.
While driving to work on monday it just suddenly got silent mid song. I tried changing the station and popping a cd in and nothing....
Also have tried turning it on/off... Anything else I can do? The deck functions normally but makes no noise.
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So my strut mounts are shot and I wanted to add adjustable rear control arms to eliminate tire wear. So thinking of going with Bilstein HD's with the stock springs. Oh and BTW want to keep stock ride height since it is my daily. The only option I would consider for springs would be the euro version of the stock springs.
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Are there any guides out there on how to remove the stock subwoofer? I have been searching numerous places and coming up fairly blank on how to remove it. So far I have found that I need to remove the seatbelt bolt, but looking in the trunk it appears I need to remove the piece of trim that runs along the trunk lid floor and both the B and C pillar in order to remove the trim that goes over the subwoofer.
Does the trim clip into place on the trunk lip, pillars and over the sub? Looking for any more information on getting to the stock sub? I have found a half dozen threads of people swapping them out, but no one posted how they got to the subwoofer in the first place.
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I bought a used 2006 F150 Lariat 4x4 (5.4L) and discovered that the oil filter and filter housing did not match stock. All web searches return the fram filter ph2 but the truck had the equivalent of ph10575. It was the right filter for the housing so it's not a case of someone putting the wrong filter on the truck. The ph10575 filter is for model years 2010 - 2013. Should I start investigating whether the engine had been replaced or is this normal?
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Replacing their stock muffler with a Magnaflow and kept the rest of the exhast system stock? How does it sound? Any performance gains?
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I have a 2007 f150 XLT with 18 inch stock rims. I also have a 2 inch leveling kit, how big of tires can i put on it?
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i cant find the dyno post but didnt the isf make more power with headers and stock exhaust?
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Deleting the cats from the stock headers ? would there be any power gain or loss ?
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how much HP is there expected to be with adding high flow cats?
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what material is used for the stock airbox? The 90 degree "snorkel" intake tube that is held on by two rivets on my airbox has a tab at one rivet that is cracked. This allows the snorkel to move around and come unsealed from the main airbox. It is "pre-filter" so there is no performance issue, but I would like it to stay in place and look right.
Depending on the material, I was going to shave some slivers from a thicker part of the box and mix it with a solvent to make a paste and apply it to the crack. This will only work if the material "melts" in strong solvents like acetone/MEK. Once it dries, it will be good as new. I have done this many times with ABS and PVC. There is a small gap to fill so simply gluing might not be as strong.
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i have a 92 eddie bauer star with premium sound system with equalizer. i'm upgrading to an aftermarket system and was told there's a tray that replaces the equalizer and i'm wondering if it's a separate piece from the trim piece that covers the radio, vents etc. ?
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ome information on upgrading my 2004 F250 XL Stereo.
I need to know how to get the dash apart to get at the stereo unless there is another way of getting access to the stereo.
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I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
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OK so this issue first started in July on way back from Florida the brakes started going to the floor. You did have normal braking power, but you had to about stand on them. Took it to mechanic who cleaned and adjusted brakes, after that they seemed to work fine. Fast forward to a month later, I was going over some train tracks with a somewhat heavy load, I braked when going over them, right after that it seemed the brakes went about half way before braking. I took it back to same mechanic who said it's now either the Master Cylinder, or ABS module. I have found so many conflicting posts on this I'm not sure which way to go. I'd really hate to spend $400 on MC, and then it turns out to be ABS. There is also a swooshing noise when you depress brake.
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My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
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My 08 escape (3.0) wouldn't go over 45-50mph Sunday on my way home. The next morning I made it about 2 blocks and the battery light came on and it died. I am replacing the battery tomorrow because it tested bad but believe there is also an exhaust problem. Last week it began making a noise I could hear inside the car only when accelerating. Almost sounded like a small,air plane. The car will start and run now but cuts out and sometimes will Rev up when I press accelerator and sometimes won't. The exhaust pipe gets hot really fast and it and the motor both vibrate we the car is started (more than normal) any clue on where to start??
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I am looking to improve the stock transmission oil cooling. Since the factory routing runs through the coolant radiator and then through an oil radiator, these are the 3 methods im considering.
1. Replace the factory oil radiator with a larger one.
2. Eliminate running it through the coolant radiator and instead run 2 oil radiators
3. Add a fan to the factory oil radiator
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