With winter on its way I have installed winter tires and steel rims w/o pressure sensors on my 08 Escape. Is there a way to disable the dash warning light for low tire air pressure?
View 14 RepliesI just put on new winter tires and rims on my 2012 Escape and after driving about 6 miles, the low tire pressure light came on. Is there is a procedure to learn the vehicle to the new tires?
View 6 Replies2008 Escape V6
Got the oil changed at Walmart and they told us there was oil in the air filter and we should replace the pcv valve. Before we changed it the oil pressure light had started coming on when the car is stopped, either in gear or park. Once the gas is hit it goes off, even at something like 1 mph. Well I changed the pcv valve but the oil pressure light is still doing the same thing. What should be my next step?
The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
Over the weekend my 2008 Escape Hybrid manifest 2 problems the same day.
1. The remote keyless entry button stopped working (thought it was dead battery in key)
2. Got a error message 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault'
So after suffering with having to actually unlock my car with a key (heehee/see sarcastic grin) and getting irritated by the error message. I asked the internet about my symptoms. Got the standard answers of "bad tire pressure sensor/reprogram" and change the battery in the key. But ONE and only one person (namely Enviroguy ) said what I thought was going on - that these two problems were related. (afterall it is 2 wireless devices in the car.)
Changing the key fob battery had no effect & Both keys were unresponsive. Seeing what Enviroguy said about certain chargers or wireless devices can cause interference in the tire sensor and keyless systems. .... Then I remember that I had been using a new no-name charger for my cell phone when this problem started.
I unplugged that charger.....(it was a cheap generic power point to USB adapter). The Keyless system is working... ! The tire pressure error has vanished.... !
I did not go to the car appointment.... Now let's hope this was in fact the problem! May my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid "Be Healed!"
So I have a 2008 escape 4wd.... I am getting a few flat spots on the inside passenger rear tire... So I figured it was the shocks so I unbolted both and cycled them and they both felt the same... There was dampening you can feel the oil going through the valves or whatever... I have felt completely bad shocks before and it was just a smooth motion when cycling the shocks... Can it still feel like there good but there not? The thing has 85k on it and I'm not sure if they have ever been replaced before..
View 6 RepliesI'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
I love my new ride too (08 V6). I hvae a couple of questions: How can you disable your DRL? I went to the convenience page and there's no option to disable DRL (day time running lights). How can I reset the tire pressure monitor sensor. I upgraded to the 19" wheels and my TPMS settings is for 17" wheels.
I looked all over the MFD and I don't have the option to reset them. But according to the manual that came with the car I should have that option. One thing I noticed their manual is not the greatest. By the way this is my first VW.
My friends 2006 Escape has the ( low pressure warning light) flashing on for about 10 seconds after starting the engine. All tires are at correct pressure. What is causing this?
View 5 Replies I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
I just bought a 2008 Mercury Mariner about a month ago. A couple of times the Traction Control light came on from when I started it, until I turned it off (5-30 minutes.) Then it didn't come on for days. What the problem could be??
View 1 RepliesOn my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
No key on prime. Inertia switch OK. Zero line pressure when filter removed & changed. Tries to start with ether. Front 3 coils are for sure firing. Swapped the pump relay with fan relay, no change, no prime.
I'm working with an 03 factory hard copy manual & I'm just not seeing a testing procedure, but I'm bat blind sometimes. What I'm missing? The patient had run fine all day, stopped for an hour. Got back in, started badly, shook somewhat, died, no start since.
Is it possible to disable the TPS using vag com?
I am using the car for the track and don't want to have sensors on several sets of wheels.
I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
I have a 2006 Prius with 133k miles.
The other day, I had my Michelin Hydroedge tires (87k) replaced with Michelin Defenders.
The tech brought out one of the rims before removing the old tire and told me that he thought that the tire pressure gauge was broken. He shook it and I could hear it rattling inside.
I have a set of wheels without sensors and would like to lose the danger symbol on the dash monitor. Have tried the fuse 24 and 27 combinations. Have Vag-Com.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2007 F-150 that I'm having a little problem with. The tire pressure indicator light has kept coming on almost every time I drive it. I checked the tires, all register 35 pounds cold which is what it calls for. It has been going on in hot or cold weather for the past 4-5 months but will go off after I'd say 5 or 10 minutes of driving it. I really can't figure out what is going on with it. Bad sensor maybe? I looked to find something about this but couldn't or I didn't look hard enough.
2007 Ford F-150, Supercab, Lariat, 4X2, 6FT5 box,
5.4 Triton V8, black in color, gold bottom trim, 3.73 LSD,
9.75 axle, tow pckg. 0-60 recently clocked at 7.7 sec with
no tune.
Mods: Magnaflow SI/DO exhaust.
I need to replace my pressure line on my 02 Escape 3.0L. Looking for a DIY for doing this same job?
View 1 RepliesHow to disable the Tire Pressure Warning System. Repairs are costing more than it is worth.
View 3 RepliesI bought a used 2011 Ford Escape Ltd. which now has 21000 miles on it. The tire pressure sensor indicated a tire was low (it was), and I filled it. Now I intermittently get a message of "Tire pressure sensor fault." The dealer checked it when they changed the oil but it's still coming on, usually when I'm at high speed. It goes off again by itself. Is it important for me to do something?
View 5 Replies