The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 1 RepliesThe ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
View 8 RepliesMy 2001 Accent heater only blows air to your face no matter what position the knob is in.
View 3 RepliesOk, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
My wife's '02 Explorer has developed an issue with the heat/AC. As far as I can tell, the heat is hot when it's supposed to be hot, and the AC is cold when it's supposed to be cold. But, the problem is that everything only blows out through the defrost vents, no matter what setting it is on.
I know there are other threads on this type of subject, and I have read a lot of them. I thought I had identified that actuator gizmo as the culprit, but the more I read, it didn't seem like the symptoms for that issue are exactly like mine. I want to try and fix it myself, and I'd love to take the time to read everything on the subject, but warmer weather is here and my wife wants it fixed yesterday!
This problem reminds me of the time the vacuum pump went out on my F-350 and the defrost vents were all that would work. I wish this problem would be as easy to fix as that was.
When the blower is on, it automatically switches from vents to defrost vents on its on. Does it about every 4 minutes.... like it's haunted. Curious if this is something i can tackle or do i need to take it in...
View 7 RepliesI have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
View 9 RepliesI'm getting very low airflow out of all of the cabin vents. I've already checked and cleaned/replaced the air filter and cabin blower fan and the ducting between the two, there's no obvious debris at the intake. The blower and resistor are working fine - when removed but left connected to the electrical, it starts up fine, is quiet, and changes speed appropriately when the fan speed in changed. I think there's either debris or something buggered in the system that controls the vents, but I'm not sure how to check that.
View 4 RepliesWhere the blower motor resistor is located on the '05 model.
View 11 RepliesBlower motor only seems to be working on the 3 & 4 position? Resistor bad? What is the location?
View 1 RepliesI am having an issue with my 2008 Ford Escape XLT. It seems that my A/C and Heater fan isnt working properly. Basically, air only comes out when i put the fan speed to 4. With 1-3, no air comes out. If the A/C or Heat is on, I can feel cold air or heat coming out but the actual fan isn't running. It only runs when it is set to 4. What the problem could be?
View 7 RepliesI have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
View 2 RepliesWhat is the inside diameter of an '05 Escape heater core hose?
View 5 RepliesMy blower in my truck only blows at levels 3 and 4. Do the blower motor going out? Switch? Motor relay? I've read a bunch of things try?
View 5 RepliesI have a f150 2007 with a 4.2 in it. The CEL comes on and when this happens the air comes out the a/c vents and no where else. We have cleared the code out but it comes back on when we do clear it out the air blows out where the dial is set. I think there is a vac leak somewhere....
View 14 RepliesRecently bought a 2003 E350. The front heater/ac blower motor isn't working. I found the control switch melted and bought a new switch. Before installing it, I need to do some diagnostics. I checked the blower with a couple of jumpers ant it turns and blows. I think that leaves the blower motor resistor. Where it is on a 2003 E350? I also need to check the relay. I have a power distribution box at the front left under the hood. Is the relay there? The box is not labeled like my GM products. Which is the blower motor relay? Finally, which fuse controls the blower motor? I read it might be a 40 amp fuse. If so, that might narrow it down.
View 6 RepliesI cannot get heat in the back seat area until the car has been used for an hour or so. The front vents are very hot...but the back blows cold air.
View 16 Replies I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
OK so this issue first started in July on way back from Florida the brakes started going to the floor. You did have normal braking power, but you had to about stand on them. Took it to mechanic who cleaned and adjusted brakes, after that they seemed to work fine. Fast forward to a month later, I was going over some train tracks with a somewhat heavy load, I braked when going over them, right after that it seemed the brakes went about half way before braking. I took it back to same mechanic who said it's now either the Master Cylinder, or ABS module. I have found so many conflicting posts on this I'm not sure which way to go. I'd really hate to spend $400 on MC, and then it turns out to be ABS. There is also a swooshing noise when you depress brake.
View 11 RepliesMy wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
View 7 Replies