Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2007 - Steering Wheel / Front End Shimmy At Speed
Sep 12, 2014
Recently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
2007 SF SE 3.3, approaching 60,000 miles. I'm feeling a front steering wheel shimmy on "heavy" braking, as in a recent trip into the Adirondack mountains with twisty roads.
View 5 Replies
Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
View 6 Replies
My 2008 Escape LTD AT steering wheel has a chunk out of it, so I got a steering wheel off eBay advertised as a '2008 Escape' steering wheel (came with upper part of column also). The color is the same, and it looks exactly the same - except for one cruise control button.
I don't know if there was a difference between the MT and AT cruise controls; the owners manual doesn't say. Or if maybe this wheel is from a different year than 2008. What I would like to know is if the wire connections will be the same, if the 'Set-' button is the same as the 'Cst-' button.
I'd hate to swap them and then find out there was a different pinout for the eBay cruise buttons....
View 2 Replies
Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
View 5 Replies
I recently bought a 1998 f-250, regular cab, long bed, 4x4, 5.4l triton, automatic. The truck was involved in a wreck by the previous owner and I am trying to repair the damage. He hit some ice, slid off the road, and collided with a log cabin.
The visible damage was done to the driver side front. The bumper, grill/surround, header panel, headlight, turn signal, fender, and hood all need to be replaced. When you drive the truck there is a shimmy coming from the front that can be felt in the steering wheel. When going straight and releasing the steering wheel it pulls to the passenger side. The driver side front rim might be bent? Which might prove interesting if I have to replace it (7x150mm).
This is my first Ford truck. I was willing to take the gamble on fixing it up. I hope that it works out and I am able to do so. What years/models can I source these parts from?
View 8 Replies
I have been having this problem with Gf's car for a few months it is a 06 3.0 escape with 141K on the clock the car seems to run ok except at red lights and when in drive it seems to idle like its just about 100 rpms low when I give it a little gas just a touch it smoothes out. if I put it in neutral the car smooth's out but in drive when you come to a stop light or stop sign you can feel the rough or low idle in the steering wheel. She is nagging me and it has been very cold here in Pa and I'm trying to wrap my head around if it is a cold thing or just a coincidence. I'm fairly good at wrenching and I just need some things to look for as when you start the car up cold it idles fast like 12 to 1300 rpms and then drops to about 900 and in drive it seems like maybe it's about 600 to 700 rpms. but where to start to look Is it a sensor, vacuum leak ?
View 6 Replies
Have an 03 Escape / 3.0 and the steering catches when turning left. Steering wheel jerks. Replaced the pump about 2 mo. ago and seemed to work, but now it is back. Is there something else I should look at?
View 3 Replies
My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
View 4 Replies
I was out driving tonight and our 03 escape started making a thumping sound like you hear when you have a flat. I turned the corner and noticed that the steering wheel is now at a 30 degree angle as I'm going straight and when I hit the brakes the steering wheel straightens out but the car doesn't change direction. It's dark so I can only see so much but the tie rods are good and tight from what I can tell same with ball joints. They just did that subframe recall a month or so ago. My concern is steering box but other than these symptoms it seems to be working fine.
View 4 Replies
Have a 2009 BMW 328i with 78,000 miles. In the last year, the front brake pads and rotors have been replaced by the dealer 3 times, each time because of "warping" which is their diagnosis of a steering wheel shimmy (left to right oscillation) that occurs under light to moderate braking, especially at highway speeds.
The strange part: replacing the rotors and pads seems to solve the issue, but only for a few hundred miles.
I am led to conclude that something is causing very accelerated uneven deposition of pad material to the rotors - but what could it be? Suspension components and bushings have been inspected and check out. So do calipers. Recently completed: four wheel alignment, wheel rounding and balancing did not solve the issue. One dealer will no longer look at problem until "all four tires replaced" - but tires look fine, they are OEM RFTs with about 4/32nd's of tread left. Car seems fine cruising on highway - steering wheel shimmy only occurs under braking.
View 18 Replies
For the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
View 5 Replies
I have a 2007 Sante Fe Limited that has 93k on it. Within the last year I have noticed the steering wheel will shimmy when you apply the brakes at high speeds, it's slowly came to the point now that anything above 40mph will cause the steering wheel to shake while applying the brakes. I am guessing I have warped or unevenly worn front rotors. The car supposedly had a break job done at 74k and this started happening at about the 90k mark.
I was looking at these : Front Performance Brake Rotors Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for Santa FE 07 09
Second question, any tool list or required sockets sizes to complete a front rotor and pad replacement? I have a floor jack, jack stands, a set of 3/8 deep metric sockets. I also have a breaker bar. This is my only car so I want to make sure I have everything I need before I start taking stuff apart.
View 15 Replies
got an issue with my 01 excursion. When driving the steering wheel with vibrate or shimmy. As in if the rotor maybe warped or tire has a small bubble in it. Here is the kicker. It does not do it all the time. Some times I can drive it and it drives just as smooth as can be and I can go all the way to town and back. Then sometimes I can drive it to town and either turn a curve or hit a bump and then it will start doing it. Then I will come back home. Then the next time i jump in it and start driving down the road and it is just fine. I just had the brakes and rotors were just changed.
View 6 Replies
Just wanted to post a recent experience I had with the catalytic converter issues Escapes seem to be prone to. A friend has a 2003 Escape 4x4 with the 3.0 V-6 and automatic transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it, she bought it with 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
Recently it developed driveability issues: No power with a whistling noise and top speed of 10 M.P.H. I researched on here and her symptoms matched threads that came up using the search function. I told her I was pretty sure the front cat was bad and had plugged the rear cat, causing the issue. She took it to a local repair shop and confirmed my diagnosis. Their estimate for repair was north of $1,500.00. My neighbor and I were sure we could repair it cheaper.
We towed it to my house and pulled the front and rear-most cats. As suspected they were both bad. The back cat on the engine looked pristine inside so we left it alone. We ordered all of our parts from rockauto. New front and rear-most cats, exhaust and intake gaskets, serpentine belt, and one O2 sensor that was damaged when the insides of the front cat let go.
Installation was straight forward with no major issues. We also changed the plugs with brand new ones she had purchased but never had installed. The vehicle now runs fantastic and she is extremely happy with it.
View 14 Replies
ok this has me stumped I get this buzzing/humming/vibration sound from what seems like around Defroster passenger side but it is not all the time only at higher speeds and it it intermittent . I have removed cabin filter and cleaned filter box and checked for a leaf or something even sealed somewhat the plastic shield that covers the cabin filter. I really don't want to rip dash apart but it is so annoying
View 14 Replies
I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
View 5 Replies
I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
View 5 Replies
Steering column recall ? The ford sites don't have much info yet. What is involved steering column replacement ? Computer reprogramming to sove the issue of the steering ?
View 1 Replies
I've read quite a bit in various threads about the large vacuum elbow collapsing, causing erratic idle speeds. My 2001 3.0 had that issue int he past. I shoved a 1/2" copper 45 degree elbow inside of the rubber elbow, and the problem was solved... until a few days ago.
We're now getting into the hot part of summer here. I've notice the same symptoms are beginning to return, once the engine compartment gets hot. My question is... is the large vacuum line a "hard line" all the rest of the way to the engine, or are there other places along it's length that can also collapse under vacuum?
View 3 Replies
