I have a 2007 Mercury Mariner with a 3.0 Liter V6 engine AWD. The transmission is giving me a problem. No shift into 2nd and 4th. Solenoid or band broken I think. Is the bolt hole pattern to attach the tranny to the engine different between the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3 I4?
View 3 Replieswell Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
View 14 RepliesI have a 79 f100 that I am putting 96' explorer seats in. Got the tracks all made, decided to have the seats re done as a cat pissed on them.
went to talk to the guy doing the seats today and he can get new foam and won't make new foam. So my question which seats whether it be from an F series or E series has the same bolt pattern as the 96' style seats. so I don't have to make new brackets. Will the fox body mustang seats work as well?
So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
What bolt pattern the wheels are on my 99 passat. Fairly new to the game. and can I put on the audi phat fives or the S4 wheels also what problems are run into when you put on 17's. does it mess up the on board computer that computes mpg and all that good stuff?
View 4 RepliesNeed to know if the 5.4 and 6.8 use the same bell housing pattern?
View 5 Replies2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
View 2 RepliesI own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
what is the bolt pattern for the rims of a gti 20th anniversary??
View 1 RepliesI am working to analyze my Granddaughters 2008 Escape FWD Auto 2.3 L issues with the Transmission. Vehicle has 142K miles with engine oil changes but no maintenance on the Transmission.
Engine was replaced about 9 months ago with a used 2.3 L with 52000 miles. Engine runs fine with no issues and NO Codes. BUT when driving the Escape I find it starts out in 1st gear and with a little feathering of the throttle will shift at 2600-3200 rpm directly to 3rd gear. (Based on known ratios and rpm vs MPH) Also no OD/ 4th gear. OTHER than the shifting issue it runs fine.Reverse works normally.
Summary: NO CODES from OBDII, NO OD lite ON or flashing, NO leaks, "wrench" light is ON solid after 1-2 miles driving, "wrench" light is OFF on restart but turns ON after 1-2 miles driving, Changed ATF - old fluid was slightly dark but looked and smelled OK - Drain plug magnet had slight coating of sludge - no dirt, metal or other solids. Transmission Shifting Lever properly selects Park - Reverse - Neutral - Drive with a quick/Normal change.
My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
View 3 RepliesMy wife and I have a 2002 Escape and basically love it, however, at my last oil change, at 26,000 miles, I told the service manager about a shudder I was getting from the transmission when it down-shifted from overdrive. He suggested a transmission fluid change since I was in the range that Ford recommends.
That totally corrected the problem for almost 4000 miles, however, the shudder is slowly starting to come back at 30000 miles.
Just yesterday, I took it to my Ford dealer for inspection, oil change and it's 30000 mile check up and I mentioned this problem to the service manager. He suggested that I make an appointment.
The problem is that right now, it is happening so infrequently, if they took it for a test drive, it might happen right away, or not at all, but I know it will get worse as time goes on.
Question. Should I wait until the problem gets worse, and second, what might be the cause?
I have had my truck in the local ford shop because the fluid was a little bit burnt smelling, I had a flush done to it and then afterwards I noticed first gear started hesistating and then would go to second, when it warm it doesn't have any issues, shifts normal, but when cold or starting off even with running in the morning before going to work its still does that, I would like to find out before it starts becoming a serious problem....
View 6 RepliesMy girl has a 2008 Escape 3.0L FWD auto trans. Is it possible to install a transmission cooler? She wants to pull a small trailer/camper.
View 2 RepliesI have two aging Escapes . Both are 2001 6 cyl 4WD over 100 000 miles. My Mechanic tells me that the trannies on these typically only last 80000 mi and that they cost about 3000.- to replace. I just found out i have to replace the steering rack on one of them which is a 900.- procedure. I love both cars and I really would like to drive them for a few more years.
View 14 Replieswe have a 07 Escape that the brake lights stay on even with the ignition key off. I changed the brake switch twice. Thinking maybe the first may be faulty from the factory. I'm stuck on what the problem could be
View 8 RepliesI have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
View 6 RepliesWhen started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
View 3 Replies2007 Ford Escape XLT V6, ~60K miles .... My wife has this rattle in her escape, has had it about a month now. The rattle happens when idling, is less noticeable when driving the car, but might just be drowned out by road noise, etc. Revving the engine in neutral doesn't seem to affect the rattle at all as far as I can tell.
I listened around the engine compartment with a stethoscope for awhile and couldn't pinpoint anything so I told her to bring it in and have it looked at. She brought it in to "Brake King", they do full service mechanic work, but i'm not sure how great they are, but they are flexible about bringing the car in and looking at it right away and my wife can't be without her car for very long since she uses it for work. They said it need the sway bar rods and bushings replaced (they did this and the noise didn't go away). I was pretty suspect about it since the rattle happens when idling, but i'm no expert so I figured they knew what they were doing.
We brought it back and the guy said that the noise was internal to the engine and asked about where we get the oil done. (I do the oil myself and always use Mobil 1, I really don't think it is an oil issue. Maybe the oil filter since we don't change that every time, but again... They did a free synthetic oil change + filter change and that didn't work.
All the while i've been doing research and I decided to go ahead and remove the drive belt to see if the noise would go away when I did ( this whole time I was suspecting something on the drive belt). So I removed it and the noise did go away for the minute or so I ran it without the belt. This pretty much confirmed to me that it was something on the drive belt. I replaced the tensioner since I read that that could be a suspect and they are "relatively" cheap and easy to do. That did NOT work. (I also broke the bolt that holds it on and had a helluva time trying to find a replacement, but that is a whole other story).
So while I had the splash guard off, I listened some more. The rattle really seems to me to be coming from the crankshaft pully area rather than from the A/C compressor area or the alternator area. If it was the C/S pulley, wouldn't it still make the rattle even with the belt off? Looking in the Haynes manual, the C/S pulley doesn't necessarily look like that easy of a replacement (especially if I'm not sure it will actually fix the problem). Anyny opinions as to whether that might be the problem, and if so if a DIYer can do the replacement?
Here is the video. When watching it live, I swear I see a bit of a wobble on the pulley compared to the other pulleys on the belt line, but in the video, you can't really see it...
Video : Mystery rattle ford escape 2007 - YouTube
I have a 2007 Ford Escape with a passenger side low beam that won't turn on when the headlights are turned on. I have replaced both low beam lights and checked all the fuses. Fuses are ok,none are burned out. My high beams work perfectly as well as my fog lamps. I need any and all advice and information , including any simple wiring diagrams that could be of use . Is it possible that the multi function switch for the turn lights and headlights is the problem?.
View 10 RepliesRecently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.