Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 XLT - Very Low Airflow From Vents
Jun 14, 2016
I'm getting very low airflow out of all of the cabin vents. I've already checked and cleaned/replaced the air filter and cabin blower fan and the ducting between the two, there's no obvious debris at the intake. The blower and resistor are working fine - when removed but left connected to the electrical, it starts up fine, is quiet, and changes speed appropriately when the fan speed in changed. I think there's either debris or something buggered in the system that controls the vents, but I'm not sure how to check that.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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I am working on a 2006 Escape that originally came in with a misfire. It had three bad coils, and they had burned out three of the coil drivers in the computer. It had a new computer put in, but will not communicate with the scanner now to program the keys. The old computer would still communicate, and the vehicle can be started and run on three cylinders with that computer, but unfortunately it needs to run a bit better than that. Is there something I am missing about getting communication with a new computer?
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My wife's 08 Escape has an issue with the ignition key actually sticking in spots when turning to the start position, then we almost have to turn it back to the run position, it doesn't spring back like it used to, and should do. It's an 08 Escape, XLT V6 AWD, auto transmission.
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Friend just got a mariner hybrid car, Its quite nice but it keeps cutting out on them on the freeway, a message will flash saying pull over as soon as possible. they turn the key off then back on and it's fine for awhile. It's happened 3 times to them today and once in awhile before that. no codes have been thrown, the CEL light is not illuminated. they are Flummoxed on this issue as I am. Also, is there a way the door key pad code can be read? they did not get it with the car and they'd like to use it. Message shows as 'Stop Safely Now' .....
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Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
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I have a Mazda Tribute 2006 2.3. The O/D light would come on, drove it to a friends to scan the check engine light code, and the car almost made it there and then wouldn't remove in reverse, forward, or anything. Turn it off then start it up still wouldn't, then turned it off let it cool and it worked again for a little while.
The code was P0741, just the one code. Took it to a shop to have further tests, they seemed to think it was the clutch was worn and when the fluid heated it lost friction.
Pulled the transmission and thought why not do a Transmission rebuild? I have never done one but there was an awesome video on youtube of the guy doing it so I figured it couldn't be too hard and was just going to try my first rebuild.
According to the guy in the video you always need all new bushing, and we will get a rebuild kit with new clutch packs and the other stuff that comes with those, and sounds like it's a good idea to replace the torque converter.
The car is only at 85K and it looks like the transmission was rebuilt once before he got it at 80K. Maybe a bad rebuild?
Here are some pictures .....
The Input Sprag bearing was shredded and the bushing looks terrible. Can I just replace the bearing and the bushing? Is there any other damage I should be looking for because of this?
The forward planet you can so some eaten metal on the edge and 2 gears spin super smooth and the other 2 you have to push pretty hard to get them to turn. So new forward planet?
The shell's corners look a little rounded I wasn't sure how much was to much, can you tell from the picture if it looks like too much?
Input Sprag
Forward Planet
Sun Gear Shell
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I have a 2006 escape 4cyl. 2 wheel drive. The instrument panel goes out randomly...
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The rear sub frame fell out of her 06 Escape Hybrid. She found the recall for the 01-04's, was the problem fixed in 2004, or are later models subject to the recall and repair also?
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I recently purchased the 2006 Mazda Tribute and the previous owner has confirmed the cruise was not working. What I have looked at:
Checked fuses
checked cable and connections
check connections at unit
What I have is the cruise will power on (light on dash comes on) but it does not appear to engage. I tried to use the diagnostics built into the car, where you hold the off button and turn the key on. I get a flash for off, and on, but do not get a flash when I push the resume button.
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My friends 2006 Escape has the ( low pressure warning light) flashing on for about 10 seconds after starting the engine. All tires are at correct pressure. What is causing this?
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I wanted to try FordJunkyNC's way to run a jumper to stop the alarm from going off, but my problem is the passenger front, not the rear... different color coding on the wires..
Jumped the passenger front door? If so, which wires did you jump? Want to jump the 06 Escape doors, just don't want to short anything out...
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I have a 2006 Escape with a 4cyl. 2.3L automatic gas engine. Recently when going down the road my serpentine belt broke. I purchased a new one and attempted to install it. However, after routing it over all the pulleys there is still a significant amount of slack. Keep in mind when putting the new one on I didn't even have to move the tension pulley. Upon starting the vehicle I was able to see that all of the pulleys were moving and doing what was expected.
However, there is a great deal of squealing and risk that the belt with be thrown off or broken. I researched and am fairly certain that it is in fact the correct size belt as all the sites indicate the same part number and size. Could this be the result of a bad tension pulley that needs to be replaced? Need access to the routing diagram in case I may have put it on incorrectly? Am I missing some other form of adjusting the tension in the belt?
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I have been having this problem with Gf's car for a few months it is a 06 3.0 escape with 141K on the clock the car seems to run ok except at red lights and when in drive it seems to idle like its just about 100 rpms low when I give it a little gas just a touch it smoothes out. if I put it in neutral the car smooth's out but in drive when you come to a stop light or stop sign you can feel the rough or low idle in the steering wheel. She is nagging me and it has been very cold here in Pa and I'm trying to wrap my head around if it is a cold thing or just a coincidence. I'm fairly good at wrenching and I just need some things to look for as when you start the car up cold it idles fast like 12 to 1300 rpms and then drops to about 900 and in drive it seems like maybe it's about 600 to 700 rpms. but where to start to look Is it a sensor, vacuum leak ?
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Wifes Escape with the 3.0 has been progressively getting harder to start. It spins over just fine, but now takes between 3 to 8 seconds to actually fire. In the last six months the alternator, spark plugs, air filter have all been replaced. Engine runs perfectly, never stalls and seems fine in every other way. I've cleaned the throttle body and the IAC is working fine.
Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.
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I have several problems with my 06 FEH maybe some of you had same issues. I have imported this car from new york in my country 1 month ago, this is first Ford for me. Love this car but there is some issues and want to figure them out.
1. seat heating is turning on without clicking on the button, but not always it's random. Often on passenger seat some time on driver side to. I try to disable fuse but it also for 4x4 so it's not an option.
2. My engine idle RPMs is always higher that 1000. Maybe it is normal but want to be sure.
3. car cannot climb the hills here is the video.... car is just doing nothing to climb no rev up no trying just stall in middle. In my country there is some roads with hills like this and I want to visit that places.
4. Cruise control is working random to maybe it will start speed control in one click or after 20 -s try.
5.Is there any way to see soc? factory unis is replaced in my car with aftermarket radio. I have elm327 and tourque pro but can't find that option.
6. When monitoring with obd water temperature is always lower then it was on my other cars. its around 158-176F on other cars it was 200F.
YouTube......
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I was driving home today and randomly thought to open the vents in the b pillars and noticed that neither rear vents were flowing any air. I opened and close them and I tried every mode on the AC, and even tried turning the rear vents from the arm rest to the back seat off. Any clue as to what the deal is?? I just cant imagine what the issue is. I have never used the vents in three years of ownership but would like to think that I have the option.
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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