Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - Serpentine Belt Broke When Going Down The Road
Nov 25, 2014
I have a 2006 Escape with a 4cyl. 2.3L automatic gas engine. Recently when going down the road my serpentine belt broke. I purchased a new one and attempted to install it. However, after routing it over all the pulleys there is still a significant amount of slack. Keep in mind when putting the new one on I didn't even have to move the tension pulley. Upon starting the vehicle I was able to see that all of the pulleys were moving and doing what was expected.
However, there is a great deal of squealing and risk that the belt with be thrown off or broken. I researched and am fairly certain that it is in fact the correct size belt as all the sites indicate the same part number and size. Could this be the result of a bad tension pulley that needs to be replaced? Need access to the routing diagram in case I may have put it on incorrectly? Am I missing some other form of adjusting the tension in the belt?
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My 2007 Ford Focus broke down today. From what I can see and find online with my limited knowledge, it looks like the serpentine belt broke. Would this cause loss of power steering, rise in oil temperature and my check battery light to come on?
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OK, a couple of days ago I hit a good size bump and got the dreaded death wobble. I stopped to check the lug nuts and none were loose... jacked up one side at a time, tried shaking the tires to see if anything was loose and to my surprise on the drivers side I could move the tire back and forth (like turning the steering wheel, not around) so I figured something had broken right as I stopped. Is it supposed to do that?? I know it`s not on older vehicles.
Anyway I figured I was stranded so I thought what the heck, I`m gonna see if it will turn with the steering wheel. Well when I did... with drivers side still off the ground it gets the death wobble, oh it was running when I did it. I jacked it back down and it stopped so then I tried turning the steering wheel to see if it would turn and both tires turned as they should. I was scared to try it but I drove on home about 4 miles slowly.
My brother has an older Saturn and his wife was driving it and from the way he described it, it got the death wobble. Someone told him it was the serpentine belt. He changed it and it didn't happen anymore. Does it sound possible that the belt could be my problem. BTW, the truck is a 99 ranger 4x4 with no lift or anything.
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2006 6.0l ... I've read all over for tips on routing this belt and everyone plays it off as being some simple '20-minute' task. I'm on my 4th hour on this now.
I can't figure out how to route the belt around the tensioner pulley, circled in the picture (from another thread). Everyone glosses over how to do this and I can't figure it out.
It seems like the only way to get it on is to bend the belt and slide it between the pulley and the block, but that I just can't reach the blasted thing.
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Serpentine belt on a 2006 Honda Odyssey fraying and then ripping into the timing belt causing that belt to break? I recently had this scenario given to me as the cause of my recently replaced timing belt breaking.
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I have an 05 escape xls 4cyl that has started acting up in the past 2 weeks. The vehicle has 52k on the clock and has no other issues but what im posting about.
Heres the problem: Vehicle starts fine every time you turn the key. It does not stall or idle rough when engaging the trans mission so I've concluded it has nothing to do with the torque converter. Once the car is running the vehicle will shut off randomly with the THEFT light coming on. I played with it for about 2 hours and have found that it will do this idling in Park, while in Reverse, and while in drive. The vehicle also will shut off while I am going down the road and every time it does the THEFT light is coming on as the problem starts. It does appear that it only happens when the accelerator is not depressed and will sometimes stay running if you hit the Gas Pedal as soon as it starts to happen.
I have tried using another key figuring maybe a transponder is bad...No dice does the exact same thing. I have also noted that i do hear single quiet (tock) when the vehicle shuts off coming from the drivers side lower engine compartment.
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How to change belt on water pump on my 08 V6 the hayness says there is a tensioner on the v6 well i am stumped cant find it so ....... Belt is tight I see no way to get slack in belt to change it .top pulley and pump pulley is all i see...
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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I've been hearing a slight squeaking near the belt area. It's not continuous. Does it for a second then stops for a second and continues.
I hear it a lot more when I put the heat on through the top window (defroster). Never noticed it until it started getting cold. You think it might just be the belt? Or what?
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How to replace the belt tensioner. It's not putting out enough tension when the engine is cold. So, the belt makes chirping noise for couple of minutes idling when cold with AC on.
I had the AC inspected and everything checks out according to my mechanic.
He believes that the issue is with the tensioner since I had recently had replaced the serpentine belt.
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I just replaced the original serpentine belt at 95k miles (more preventative than anything) and now it's squeaking. Does this mean I have to replace the tensioner?
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Is it time to replace? There is a noise coming from the belt and when I listen with the hood up my best guess is that it's the tensioner. I'm not sure if it is easy to replace or if that is even the problem. The belt looks fine. It allows me to twist it barely less than halfway so to me it does not seem loose. But in the rain last week got the battery light and lost power steering, power brakes, etc, then it went back to normal and hasn't failed again since. The car has 131,000 miles.
Is there a way to check the tensioner? It's pretty tight in there. Or am I wrong as to what the problem is? The sound is a rubbing/slight clicking sound that is in time with the engine and you can hear it if you listen inside the car when the engine is on. The belt also seems to wander around on the tensioner just a little. One day it was about a mm in too much, a few days later, a few mm out, in relation to the pulley.
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Ever hear of a crank pulley failure? Mine did and took out the serpentine belt. I have 63,000 miles on the 07 and it was a big shock to see the pulley in two parts.
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I have a '06 sonata 3.3 v6. Let me first describe what was happening to the car before the noise started. When I first started the car and put the ac, the first time turning the steering wheel in either direction the steering wheel would tighten up and the battery indicator light would come on and the fasten seatbelt light would flash even though I had the belt fastened. It would only happen the first time I would make a turn and after that I could turn with no problem. So in recap, it would only happen on the first turn and only when the ac was on. Now when I start the car up there is a noise coming form the pulley/belt area. I wouldn't classify it as a squeaking noise more like a grinding. I've looked at the belt and it seems to be fine. After I start to drive the car the noise goes away. If I start the car again after a drive within about 2 hours the noise doesn't happen when I start it. What this noise could be? and also could the noise and the steering wheel tightening when the ac is on be connected?
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Is it possible to change the water pump and serpentine belt in a 2006 Toyota Camry with 4 cyl. engine in less than an hour?
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In the process of rebuilding a 2007 Accent where the timing belt broke while idling.
Pulled the head, ran a "water test" on the valves (put spark plug in, pour water on the valves and see if it comes out the exhaust/intake side) and found that only 2 intake valves were belt. Also shut off all the lights in a pitch black room, shined a flashlight in the intake/exhaust and didn't see any light leak from any of the cylinders except the one with the 2 bent valves.
Does this make sense? I would assume since 2 cylinders are always TDC at once, at least 4 valves would be bent.
Lastly, before rebuild I'll be replacing the 2 intake valves, all the valve stem seals, intake manifold gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, head gasket, head bolts and valve cover gasket. Anything else I should replace on the head? Trying to keep costs down as much as possible.
To add: Pistons have no damage on them, there are no marks of the valves hitting the pistons. The timing belt was replaced after it broke and the engine still ran however it ran rough. Compression test was done on only cylinder 1&2, 1 had 60 PSI and 2 had 0 PSI. Compression test was also done by just rotating the crank with a socket since I already had some of the engine disassembled.
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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I'm getting very low airflow out of all of the cabin vents. I've already checked and cleaned/replaced the air filter and cabin blower fan and the ducting between the two, there's no obvious debris at the intake. The blower and resistor are working fine - when removed but left connected to the electrical, it starts up fine, is quiet, and changes speed appropriately when the fan speed in changed. I think there's either debris or something buggered in the system that controls the vents, but I'm not sure how to check that.
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I am working on a 2006 Escape that originally came in with a misfire. It had three bad coils, and they had burned out three of the coil drivers in the computer. It had a new computer put in, but will not communicate with the scanner now to program the keys. The old computer would still communicate, and the vehicle can be started and run on three cylinders with that computer, but unfortunately it needs to run a bit better than that. Is there something I am missing about getting communication with a new computer?
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My wife's 08 Escape has an issue with the ignition key actually sticking in spots when turning to the start position, then we almost have to turn it back to the run position, it doesn't spring back like it used to, and should do. It's an 08 Escape, XLT V6 AWD, auto transmission.
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Friend just got a mariner hybrid car, Its quite nice but it keeps cutting out on them on the freeway, a message will flash saying pull over as soon as possible. they turn the key off then back on and it's fine for awhile. It's happened 3 times to them today and once in awhile before that. no codes have been thrown, the CEL light is not illuminated. they are Flummoxed on this issue as I am. Also, is there a way the door key pad code can be read? they did not get it with the car and they'd like to use it. Message shows as 'Stop Safely Now' .....
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