Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - How To Remove Steering Wheel
Mar 2, 2008
Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
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I have been having this problem with Gf's car for a few months it is a 06 3.0 escape with 141K on the clock the car seems to run ok except at red lights and when in drive it seems to idle like its just about 100 rpms low when I give it a little gas just a touch it smoothes out. if I put it in neutral the car smooth's out but in drive when you come to a stop light or stop sign you can feel the rough or low idle in the steering wheel. She is nagging me and it has been very cold here in Pa and I'm trying to wrap my head around if it is a cold thing or just a coincidence. I'm fairly good at wrenching and I just need some things to look for as when you start the car up cold it idles fast like 12 to 1300 rpms and then drops to about 900 and in drive it seems like maybe it's about 600 to 700 rpms. but where to start to look Is it a sensor, vacuum leak ?
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My 2008 Escape LTD AT steering wheel has a chunk out of it, so I got a steering wheel off eBay advertised as a '2008 Escape' steering wheel (came with upper part of column also). The color is the same, and it looks exactly the same - except for one cruise control button.
I don't know if there was a difference between the MT and AT cruise controls; the owners manual doesn't say. Or if maybe this wheel is from a different year than 2008. What I would like to know is if the wire connections will be the same, if the 'Set-' button is the same as the 'Cst-' button.
I'd hate to swap them and then find out there was a different pinout for the eBay cruise buttons....
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Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
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Recently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.
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Have an 03 Escape / 3.0 and the steering catches when turning left. Steering wheel jerks. Replaced the pump about 2 mo. ago and seemed to work, but now it is back. Is there something else I should look at?
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My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
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I was out driving tonight and our 03 escape started making a thumping sound like you hear when you have a flat. I turned the corner and noticed that the steering wheel is now at a 30 degree angle as I'm going straight and when I hit the brakes the steering wheel straightens out but the car doesn't change direction. It's dark so I can only see so much but the tie rods are good and tight from what I can tell same with ball joints. They just did that subframe recall a month or so ago. My concern is steering box but other than these symptoms it seems to be working fine.
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Steering column recall ? The ford sites don't have much info yet. What is involved steering column replacement ? Computer reprogramming to sove the issue of the steering ?
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A couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
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I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
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We are a 2 Escape family. We have an '03 and an '05 - both 4WD and 3.0 V6. My college freshman son purchased the '05 this summer to get to and from his summer job. It has a little over 173K on the clock and it has a power steering leak, so I decided to try to tackle this one.
There is a fairly good video on YouTube on replacement of the power steering pump on an '03 - but apparently on the '05 Ford decided to relocate the pump from under the upper right engine mount to a lower location closer to the front bumper so the video is not of much use in this case.
I have searched the web and this site but cannot find any tips or instructions to replace the power steering pump on the '05. The Chilton Manual I have does not acknowledge the difference in the power steering pump location on the '05 and only provides the procedure for those Escapes where the pump is located under the upper engine mount.
I think I may be able to get better access by removing the inner fender plastic and perhaps the front bumper cover, but would really like to know the accepted procedure before I start tearing into this one.
One interesting bit of info regarding power steering fluid on these vehicles. Ford designed them to use automatic transmission fluid (Mercon) instead of power steering fluid. Initially, when I saw the leak, I thought it was a tranny line leak. Then I traced it to the front of the engine which is totally on the opposite side of the vehicle from the tranny lines.
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My 2010 2.5L FWD Escape has oil on the steering boot and has run down on crossmember (?) It is equipped with Electric Power Steering. This appears to be coming from the rack and pinion but does it have fluid in it? How can you add if it does. I have 96,000 miles on the vehicle and except for a drivers door actuator and scratched drivers glass, this is only problem.
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I have an 08 escape v-6 fwd. i recently started hearing a clicking noise in the steering column. Seems to be getting worse and more noticeable. Front end seems normal. This clicking seems to be coming from right under the steering column cover near the turn signal area.
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My wheel bearing in the rear went..as its roaring when driving and shop told me wheel bearing needs replaced. I am a bit handy. Is it a big job to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 ford escape 3 litre. What tools would I need...don't need a press for wheel bearing on this model, not sure....
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I need to replace my pressure line on my 02 Escape 3.0L. Looking for a DIY for doing this same job?
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Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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I'm getting very low airflow out of all of the cabin vents. I've already checked and cleaned/replaced the air filter and cabin blower fan and the ducting between the two, there's no obvious debris at the intake. The blower and resistor are working fine - when removed but left connected to the electrical, it starts up fine, is quiet, and changes speed appropriately when the fan speed in changed. I think there's either debris or something buggered in the system that controls the vents, but I'm not sure how to check that.
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I am working on a 2006 Escape that originally came in with a misfire. It had three bad coils, and they had burned out three of the coil drivers in the computer. It had a new computer put in, but will not communicate with the scanner now to program the keys. The old computer would still communicate, and the vehicle can be started and run on three cylinders with that computer, but unfortunately it needs to run a bit better than that. Is there something I am missing about getting communication with a new computer?
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