Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - Alarm Going Off - Passenger Front Door?
Sep 13, 2015
I wanted to try FordJunkyNC's way to run a jumper to stop the alarm from going off, but my problem is the passenger front, not the rear... different color coding on the wires..
Jumped the passenger front door? If so, which wires did you jump? Want to jump the 06 Escape doors, just don't want to short anything out...
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The passenger door on my 2002 Escape is locked and the power lock is not working on that door. The door is closed, how to get it open.
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Have had the '13 SE 2.0 for a week. Wife said there was a squeak ?? I drove it today. Seems to be from front passenger side..
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I need to find a diagram of the door panel on the drivers front door. Need to see how to remove the switch bezel to check the power window switches.
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I had the front timing chain cover replaced, ever since it hasn't started. It would turn over fast a couple times and then drag and then repeat.
Found out the "Tone ring" was warped, it's been replaced and now it just turns over and over and no start but it doesn't drag anymore.
We can smell the fuel, and pulled a plug and can see spark while turning over and I was told fuel came out the plug hole so there is fuel there.
Tried a new cam sensor, crank sensor and battery and no change. Is there something else in the removal and replacement of the front timing chain cover that could be causing this?
I'm not a huge believer in coincidence as the vehicle was running great before this job.
2006 Ford Escape
3.0L v6 w auto tranny.
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The factory installed passive anti theft alarm keeps going off without external cause. Went to dealership to have them do the scan and all alarms point to the right rear-door. They suggest replacing the latch. This same latch was replaced 13 months ago for same problem. They will not honor the now out of date 12 month replacement warranty. They said they have checked the wiring and all looks OK. Must be the latch. I only have 30,000 miles on the vehicle and this is a rarely used door, yet I have to replace the same latch again?? Can the door ajar module be replaced separately and would it be less expensive to do so?
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Girlfriend's Escape is leaking from the front passenger side. I can see where the fluid is coming from, and hear a hiss when the brake is applied.
I think she just needs the one line replaced- what's a ball park cost?
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I have a 2005 Escape with about 98,000 miles on it. For a while I have been having problems with the rear glass not registering that it is closed. It does close and latch tight, but the dash shows that there is still a door open. Now I am having issues with the PATS. The alarm goes off randomly when trying to start the car and when I stop the car and take my key out of the ignition. I am thinking these two issues are related. Is there a sensor on the rear window hatch that may be malfunctioning? And would this cause the stock alarm system to sound?
Edit: I have read another site that suggested spraying WD-40 into the latch then open and close it a few times...Does this sound legitimate?
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What is the location of ptu on drivers side or passenger side???
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My 2005 Ford Escape's alarm goes off intermittently throughout the day and night. This usually occurs after the door ajar light comes on while I'm driving. All doors are secure and I've even replaced the latch assemblies on the driver's door and rear hatch (these are the most used doors). There must be something in this circuit that is causing this to happen. It is frustrating having the alarm go off in the middle of the night when there are no obvious intruders. How can I resolve this issue without replacing any more latches or spending a large amount on diagnostic tools from Ford?
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Had to get a replacement door due to a wreck. It's from a salvage yard, painted and ready to install except I want to swap my door handle over because of the key lock. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove this thing. I've got it unbolted and it'll move all around, just not slide out.
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2001 ford escape. cannot open back door and glass. there is no kep option, only auto and they are not working. checked fuses, all other doors working fine, I was hoping to move this weekend and need to get in the back door. Is there any safety latch? or possible child lock?
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Where I should start looking for the root cause of the following leak? My wife noticed that when it was raining water dripped off the handhold by the front passenger seat. The ceiling liner is dry, no evidence of water soaking into it. I am thinking windshield or door seal as there is no moon roof and the liner is dry but before I start tearing into it I want to see if there is even a chance I can fix it myself.
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So I just bought this escape last month with 93k on it and just realized the moonroof is leaking onto the passenger seat. I hope it's these drains I've read a little about. Where they're located or where they empty and the best way to clean them. Hopefully it's warm enough for any ice in them to melt today so I can try that first.
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I was just changing the oil on my wifes 2008 Escape and noticed a oil leak. At first I thought it was an oil pan gasket,But its higher than that. Then I thought maybe an axle boot but it's also higher than that. It's on the passenger side about the middle of the engine right under neath the biggest pulley.
Its a cylinder shape mold coming off the engine about an inch long with a bolt on the end of it. I'm not seeing oil any higher than that and seems to be coming from there from what I can see. Is this something common with the Escapes?The truck has 55,650 miles on it and this is the first issue so far.The wifes first escape we traded for this was an 01 with 200,000.
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I have a 2007 Ford Escape with a passenger side low beam that won't turn on when the headlights are turned on. I have replaced both low beam lights and checked all the fuses. Fuses are ok,none are burned out. My high beams work perfectly as well as my fog lamps. I need any and all advice and information , including any simple wiring diagrams that could be of use . Is it possible that the multi function switch for the turn lights and headlights is the problem?.
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I just bought a 2010 3.0 V6. Oil is leaking down the engine on the rear passenger side of the engine. It starts near the top. I replaced the rear valve cover gasket but it still leaks. I am concluding that it must be the timing chain cover. I can't find any info on how to diagnose and how to repair.
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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My front interior light/map lights combination does not come on when the doors open. The rear seat and cargo area lights work when the doors open. Do the front interior lights are not designed to work in conjunction with the other lights when the door is opened?
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I am pretty satisfied with the performance of my 2009 Ford Escape. Two years 51,000 miles after I find that the rear door does not open. Following threads of earlier Escape models I find how to remove the inside panel and open it manually. After a thorough study all I need is a replacement latch motor. The plastic latch cover has the following number GA6 GF30.
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My father recently purchased a 2012 Prius 3. To reduce his insurance premiums, he purchased an alarm system, which the dealer installed for him a few days after he first took the car off the lot. Now, when unlocking or locking the car from the driver's door handle sensor or via the remote, it both chirps (not the horn) and briefly sounds the horn twice or once, depending on whether you are unlocking or locking.
The problem is that when the car is unlocked from the trunk or the passenger door (using the door handle sensor with the key in pocket), this does not disarm the alarm, and the alarm will sound when the door is opened. The alarm is only disarmed when using the remote's unlock button or using the Smart Key sensor at the driver's door. One of the major differences between the 3 and 2 trims is that the 3 has Smart Key capability on the front doors and the trunk, rather than just the driver's door but the alarm has negated this benefit, as opening the trunk or passenger door without first unlocking from the driver's door or remote causes the alarm to sound.
Is this normal for a Toyota-installed alarm?
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