Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2006 - ABS Light Is On All The Time And 4WD Light Flashes 8 Times
Apr 4, 2017
I have a 2006 mariner that the ABS light is on all the time and the 4WD light flashes 8 times and the vehicle feels like it is in four wheel drive when turning only at slow speeds and usually in reverse but only when the vehicle has sat for a while, as if you parked for a hour then pulled out of the stall and were turning the wheel.
Tone rings on all wheels are good and all speed sensors have good continuity. Have a friend that works at Ford dealership and he got a tech to scan the car for me. Scan showed the left rear wheel sensor at fault so that's what I'll replace.
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My ABS light is on and the 4X4 light flashes about 8 times every few minutes. I thought this would be from a cracked tone ring on teh drive axle, I put the truck up on my floor jack and I did find a cracked tome ring on passenger side. Whoever has the truck used silicone to put the broken tone ring back on. In any event I replaced the drive axle with a new OEM with new tone ring. Drives like a charm but ABS and 4X4 light still on and flashing. It is AWd Is there a tone ring on the drive shaft ?
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On my new/used 2008 Escape XLT 2.3L 2WD. It flashes every two seconds, like the manual says. Lower left corner of instrument cluster.
But I don't recall the warning light flashing when I test drove it. But I did push the buttons on the keyfob and various places on the dash/instrument cluster to see what they did...
Is the anti-theft system an on/off affair? If so, how do I turn it off?
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Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
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I have a Mazda Tribute 2006 2.3. The O/D light would come on, drove it to a friends to scan the check engine light code, and the car almost made it there and then wouldn't remove in reverse, forward, or anything. Turn it off then start it up still wouldn't, then turned it off let it cool and it worked again for a little while.
The code was P0741, just the one code. Took it to a shop to have further tests, they seemed to think it was the clutch was worn and when the fluid heated it lost friction.
Pulled the transmission and thought why not do a Transmission rebuild? I have never done one but there was an awesome video on youtube of the guy doing it so I figured it couldn't be too hard and was just going to try my first rebuild.
According to the guy in the video you always need all new bushing, and we will get a rebuild kit with new clutch packs and the other stuff that comes with those, and sounds like it's a good idea to replace the torque converter.
The car is only at 85K and it looks like the transmission was rebuilt once before he got it at 80K. Maybe a bad rebuild?
Here are some pictures .....
The Input Sprag bearing was shredded and the bushing looks terrible. Can I just replace the bearing and the bushing? Is there any other damage I should be looking for because of this?
The forward planet you can so some eaten metal on the edge and 2 gears spin super smooth and the other 2 you have to push pretty hard to get them to turn. So new forward planet?
The shell's corners look a little rounded I wasn't sure how much was to much, can you tell from the picture if it looks like too much?
Input Sprag
Forward Planet
Sun Gear Shell
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My friends 2006 Escape has the ( low pressure warning light) flashing on for about 10 seconds after starting the engine. All tires are at correct pressure. What is causing this?
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I have a 2006 Ford Escape that's turning into a mystery. Over the last few months the warning lights have been reporting issues with the overdrive. I've taken it to the mechanic who hasn't been able to identify the issue.
He's cleared the issues from the ECU, and the car doesn't complain for about 2 weeks, then it reports a different issue related to the overdrive (eg: OD or transmission).
Possibly related, the car occasionally loses power on acceleration. When taking off from a stop, it'll be really underpowered while getting up to speed. This only happens occasionally.
Is it a part failure, or could it be electrical or related to the sensors?
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I was driving today and felt my ABS kick in with a pulsing pedal, although I was on dry ground. From that point on, my ABS light stayed on and my 4X4 light will blink every minute or so 8 consecutive times. The ABS light has gone off a couple times but only for a second and the ABS light comes back on again. I did get the truck on a scanner and got the codes C1234, U2023, U0415. Tried to clear the codes, but the ABS light prevails.
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While driving into work today I noticed that when I turn the exhaust brake on the light flashes 4 times and turns back off. This definitely does not seem normal but it is cold outside. Could it being 9* have anything to do with this?
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Ok my dome light flashes and I get a chime first three times then one and it repeats. No other error messages or codes. What causes this?
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My 2004 1.6 L accent does the following, no matter how much gasoline is or is not in the tank: Whenever I remove and replace the gas cap [which is brand new], as i drive away, the engine light flashes quickly about 20-25 times; rests for about 15 seconds and flashes again about 20-25 times. Thereafter it goes out for the rest of the drive. while it is flashing, the car idles roughly. This happens even if i only remove the cap to add some water absorbent or some injector cleaner. it also happens when i fill up the tank. by the way, i NEVER TOP UP. I always quit filling with gasoline when the pump goes "thunk." this has me completely stumped.
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I'm still trying to get a manual for my recently acquired 2004 Prius, so I can't trace down what this means....
When I start the car, recently, a "Maint Required" light comes on and flashes about three or four times, then goes away. This is after all the other dash lights during the test phase go out. When I took it to have the codes read, the device said "No Codes" stored.
What does this mean? And is it a serious problem?
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I have a 03 GLI 24V VR6 6 speed and im having an issue with the brake light.. ive checked all the fuses and emergency brake sensor and they are all good, the issue is the brake light flashes 3 times then will stay on almost immediately and whenever it does the entire drive of the car changes.. without the light on the car runs fine but when it comes on its like the car goes to a limp mode and is leaning out on fuel.. it wont rev past 4k it falls on its face and basically jerks along until I get where I am going.. I've replaced ABS speed sensors, MAF, and front brakes and axles recently.. before this was an random issue that would come and go but now its almost every time and it makes it undriveable..
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My 2006 Escape Hybrid with <3500 miles on it had the ABS and 4X4 lights light today when I am 60 miles from home. I had this happen a few years ago, and I replaced a cracked tone ring, driving it to the dealer, who was only 5 miles away. My question is, is it safe to drive home and take it to my dealer who is 60 miles away, or should I have it towed?
The vehicle runs, in fact, the ABS and 4x4 light went out - in fact, I think I saw an indicator message that said 4x4 restored, but I am not sure, it appeared and then was replaced by X miles to empty. I would prefer to go home and take it to the dealer I purchased it from, but I don't want to drive in a car where the brakes may not work. I've read differing accounts on the internet and I can't figure if this is a "service soon" meaning I can make the trip home, or if it will strand me or worse if the brakes will fail on the trip home.
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The O/d light flashed on then off, a few miles later my 06 v6 all wheel drive just coasted to a stop, no noise or anything else. The engine light is on. The trans oil does not smell burnt. The park works but absolutely nothing for the other gears. I drained the tran fluid, 1 gallon came out. Put back in one gallon of new but it is way high on dipstick, the pump seems to not circulate the oil. My car only has 75k on it. What to do next?
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My son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
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I recently purchased a 2008 ford escape, v6, 2wd. When I bought it, I noticed the ABS light was on, and I got an appointment scheduled to get it fixed, but they couldn't get it looked at for 2 weeks out. Needing a vehicle to drive to and from work, I agreed to schedule the appointment, as I test drove it with the light on with no issues.
Well, after putting about 200 miles on it over the weekend, there are now noticeable issues. First off, the parking brake light decided to come on intermittently, and now it comes on and off spiradicly. Secondly, when I drive the car now, I can hear a clunking noise, followed by the traction control light blinking (It was on constant before), and loss of power. I ended up pinpointing that to being the brakes engaging while the car was driving (I noticed when I stopped, the rotors were really hot. I threw a tiny bit of snow on them and they smoked really bad.
I removed the tires in the front, and checked the tone rings, they both appear to have been replaced recently as they are still shiny as if they were brand new. I also took the ABS sensors out, and wiped them down, they also appear to be new (Although the bolts that hold them on clearly aren't new). I don't have access to a high-level scan tool to get it looked at, and I refuse to drive it anymore to take it to a shop just to have it looked at, what else could be causing the issues? It's highly possible that one of the ABS sensors is bad, but how do I go about checking it without just replacing it? Can I use a voltmeter or something to check it to see if it's getting the correct voltage?
I am not sure how the abs system works, but I know that the traction control light is on because the abs light is on, as they both have the same systems they use, but would that also cause the parking brake light to come on, too ? It originally wasn't on, but just started doing it recently. I checked the fluid level, and it's more than within range. This is my daily driver, and obviously I can't go two weeks without a vehicle, and that's the soonest I can get it into a shop...
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Drove about 200miles to see my daughter Saturday in college. Everything was ok I stopped for gas about 10 miles out of town on the highway then picked my daughter up for lunch. After we got back in the Escape and drove a few miles the wrench light come on and I lost power so I slowed and restarted it.
Everything work fine but I looked it up in the book and it said get it to service if this happens but hey it late Saturday and all in small towns were closed! After the college football game at about 9pm we left to go home on the highway just about 3-5 miles out of town it did it again lost power slowed then I restarted it ! Wrench light or power lost never came back on for the next 200 miles home! Could it just have been bad gas doing this or does the wrench light means big problems!
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I just got this 2001 Escape with 3.0. After driving just a few miles the low coolant light will come on. It is off when starting again and same pattern. Has plenty of coolant and is over the high mark but dont think that would be sensed. Need to remove mounting bolts to move jug enough to unplug and replug the harness connector and see if that cures the problem.
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
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