Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Doors Lock / Unlock While Driving?
Dec 10, 2013
2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I noticed the lights were staying on after the switch is turned off and engine off. I thought the lights might just stay on for a few minutes, they were still on an hour later and now I can't unlock the doors with either the key fob or the key. Not sure what to do next.
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My doors are locking and unlocking while driving down the road.
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So lately when im driving my doors will lock and unlock at rapid fire and even though it only happens sometimes its getting really annoying. So when i took the car in for an oil changed i asked the tech to look at it, they said it was a module in the door that would need to be replaced for $375. I was wondering if there was a way to just shut of the lock feature when u reach a certain speed and the unlock feature when you stop? i think that would fix the problem
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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I have a 2001 santa fe. replaced the battery, alternator and I keep losing power while driving, radio goes on and off, a/c blows on and off, doors lock and unlock by themselves it holds a charge for about a week then breaks down again!
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After going through a car wash my Prius has started locking all doors when I start the car and unlocking driver's and passenger front doors when I turn it off. Kind of wondering how this could happen, but since I like it that way I don't really want to change it back. Is there a way to toggle this and can I change it so that rear doors and hatchback unlock also when I turn the car off?
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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My Chevy Venture 1998 power lock doors will unlock but won't lock. Checked fuse and is ok.
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2002 super crew. My key fob will unlock the doors but it will not lock the doors even though lights blink and horn honks like it is locked. Also on all doors the unlock buttons works but all of the lock buttons do nothing. At first I though just maybe had 1 bad lock but why would all the doors start doing this at once?..
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I have a 03 Excursion. The door lock buttons work perfectly to lock the doors but nothing happens when I try to unlock with the buttons on the doors. However the key fob and keypad entry work flawlessly. I was sure it was the drivers side master switch but replaced it with a brand new one today still doesn't do anything, no sound from actuators or any relay click nothing but the mechanical click of the contacts in the switch.
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I am installing power windows and locks in a 1990 F350. The donor truck was a 90 F250.
I got everything switched and all is working except the passenger side door lock switch.
The drivers side lock switch will unlock and lock both doors.
The passenger side will unlock the passenger and drivers side door but will not lock them.
I replaced the passenger side switch with a new one. Upon further checking, I found out that it was a window switch. It still unlocked the door but would not lock it.
Is there a difference between window power switches and door lock switches?
I can ground a pink w/ orange wire on the passenger side switch to the door frame and the switch will work. I have ohmed checked pretty much everything.
Could the drivers side power lock switch be bad. I have looked over a schematic and it looks like the circuit may pass threw the drivers switch to ground.
As I asked before is there a difference between a window and lock switch?
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My ford escape won't let me unlock it my remote start doesn't work but the cars runs fine but today i locked my car before i turned it off which is what i always do. to lock it and when i went to unlock it manually i heard a pop sound and my key won't turn and there's no other way to unlock my car i walked around it 3 times trying to look for a key slot. How to unlock it.???
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My camry has been giving me this issue for last couple of weeks. The door will lock correctly using the key fob and by pressing the buttons on door of drivers + passenger. But while trying to unlock only the driver lock unlocks.
The car does not has any starting problems and I even tried a secondary battery to see if its a battery issue. The issue remains the same even the car is started or moving i.e. doors will only lock and will not unlock.
Someone said the Relays might have a problem and I was able to locate the two relays in the fuse box but I am not sure which one to pull out.
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My FOB doesn't work locking/unlocking my '06 prius. I use the embedded key to lock. When I want to lock it, I lock it from the inside.
a. I know the door lock actuator motors are not bad because I was able to lock it from the inside using the lock/unlock switch on the driver side door panel.
b. I checked the voltage on the AUX battery. It read 12.4v. So that is not the problem.
c. Key fob battery strength is good (I see the red LED every time I use the remote).
d. I don't have a SKS system so no switch exists to enable or disable the SKS under the steering.
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While on a recent vacation, my sister-in-law, trying to do a good thing, washed my clothes but neglected to remove my FOB for my 2008 Prius. I returned home only to find that the FOB would not lock/unlock the doors.
I replaced the battery (the old one was reading only .03vDC) but still no remote lock/unlock.
How can you tell if the FOB is working since there is no "little red light" like I have seen mentioned by other owners
It looks as if the FOB should be watertight, is it? Any way to clean inside the FOB in case there is some corrosion? What should be my next step?
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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My daughter picked up an 08 Base, option package #1 yesterday. It has 166K miles and checked out okay by me (coolant moving by inverter pump, no signs of water in spare tire well...etc.). The car only had 1 key fob (non-SKS) wit no spare key or fob. The key is uncut but the remote starts and runs the car. The remote will not lock or unlock the doors.
The first thing I did was replace the CR2032 battery with no change. It still operated the car but not the locks. I noticed that the little red light wasn't coming on when pushing the buttons and found the red panic button was stuck. Took care of that and thought all was good until I tried to lock and unlock the doors again. Nope! Light comes on, works in slot to start the car, but not the locks.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe and recently both rear doors don't respond to the car remote and even to the driver-side control panel on the door. The only way now to lock and unlock the rear doors is to manually do it from the inside. Both front doors are fine. What could be the problem with the rear doors? Is it just a fuse? Or do I need to open the door panel and have a look inside? If I do need to open the door panel, looking for instructions on how to open it.
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