Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - Clunking In Pedal When Make A Right Turn And Applying Brake
Mar 26, 2014
I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Highlander Hybrid 4WD. Whenever I apply the brake pedal past a certain point, I hear some sort of clunking type of noise from the front of the car. The noise can be done when braking hard, or even if I am at a stop and just press the pedal down hard. It sounds bad but I have not noticed any issues in braking performance. Everything is stock, brake pads have 60-70% as of my last serving. What this is and if I need to be concerned?
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2005 xlt 4x4. I was cleaning the threads on the rear constant velocity joint before taking the nut off. Turning the hub was almost impossible without using a steel bar. Is it supposed to be this difficult to roll the rear axles? Yes the selector is in neutral....
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The parking brake lever on my '05 Escape will not budge, is there a simple solution to this problem or do I most likely need the whole cable assembly replaced? Is there any particular spot on the cable that's most susceptible to seizing from rust that I could soak with penetrating oil to free it up? I know the inner cable comes out of the coiled metal, conduit-like outer part and is exposed where it attaches to the rear brakes. Is this most likely the spot that's causing the problem?
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The driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
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I have a 2009 Escape that has developed a clunking noise in the right rear. On any bumpy roads it sounds like the shock tower lost it's top bushing but it could also be coming from somewhere lower. It also seems like the truck drifts to the right on bumpy left hand turns, kind of scary.
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I just joined as I bought my '97 F-150 5.4 4X4 about 3 months ago. The dealer gave me a 6 month warranty but hasn't honored it at all and I've had one problem after another. That's another story though but right now I'm just trying to fix the important issues. The problem at hand are my brakes.
I was noticing a couple days ago (maybe I never noticed it that much as it was a new vehicle to me) that when I apply the brakes it sounds like a bicycle pump and the pedal travels nearly all the way down. It doesn't hit the firewall but I'd probably guess it has 3 more inches or less until it bottoms out. The hissing only occurs as the pedal travels and stops when the brake pedal isn't moving.
Now I'm not sure if the hissing sound is normal as I replaced the brake booster (from the junkyard though) and the new one still hisses when I apply brakes. The brakes seem to work okay, could be more sensitive it's just the pedal feels soft until it almost bottoms out like I stated before and the the brakes grab a little bit harder. What could it be?
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2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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Changed front brake pads yesterday. Took calipers apart, used c clamp and old break pad to release pressure from the cylinder. Installed new pads. Brakes felt spongie. Drove truck forward and backwards hitting the brakes. They tightened up some what but still spongie. Drove truck with no change. Decided to bleed front brakes. Now I have NO brake pressure at all.
*rotor on left side did have small groove but was not replaced... would this possibly be contributing to my issue.
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When started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
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I have a 2002 Honda Civic EX 1.7L. Recently the brake pedal would sometimes go to the floor when I'd apply the brakes. The car would still stop, but not as quickly as normally. If I apply the brake and it goes to the floor I would release the pedal and reapply the brake and it would stop at it's normal position and the brakes felt firm and the car would stop fine. I was told my problem was the master cylinder so I bought one on Sunday and replaced it. I bled the lines and it seemed like all the air was out. The brakes worked great and the pedal stopped in the same place and was firm.
Now today on my way to work the pedal went down a little farther than normal during one stop. On the way home it stopped in different places. The brakes would always grab and the pedal felt fairly firm wherever it stopped. I drove it this evening again and the pedal went to the floor like with the old master cylinder. One pump and they grabbed in the normal spot. What is going on? Did I not bleed the lines well enough? Is the new master cylinder just junk? I saw in the manual that air can get trapped in the ABS sensor, but an air bubble problem should just make the pedal squishy, not change where it grabs, right? I'm stumped and I really don't want to take my car in if I can fix it.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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So I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
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My son said the high brake light is out, the one on the roof. Bulb is fine. Before I experiment, where to go?
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I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
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I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
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2005 Ford Escape XLT (4WD) (non-Hybrid). Our Escape had uneven wear on the front tires. Because the mechanic we've used over the year we've lived here doesn't do alignments, my wife took it to a chain tire place on a Sunday afternoon because they were open. He said the ball joint was bad, so he wouldn't do an alignment and because they were super-busy and short-handed, he asked if we could bring it back during the week for an estimate.
A couple of weeks later I called my guy, who recommended a shop a few blocks over who does alignments, so we took it to him. We told him that the chain store had said about the ball joint. I'm pretty sure that before we took it to him, the car had started occasionally started jerking a bit in a curve, but it's been a couple of months and I only know for certain it was doing it after. (I'm not certain if it was doing it before because my wife was mostly driving that vehicle, then)
The first time it was in his shop, the mechanic said it wasn't the ball joint, but the tie-rod. After fixing that, he sold us a couple of tires and aligned the vehicle. On the way home is when I know I was aware of the car jerking a bit in curves. I'm pretty sure it was jerking in the direction of the curve, but again, it's been a couple of months.
Took it back to him the next day and though we suggested he test drive in one direction which had multiple curves, he said he retightened the tie-rod because one side wasn't right, ran it through alignment again and test drove it in another direction which only had one s-curve.
I want to say it was better for a while, but I can't really swear that to be the case. We've long had an ABS light which our previous mechanic in another part of the country said was the sensor. I had forgotten, but the first mechanic we used here had broken the axle and replaced it at no charge, when he was replacing the alternator.
The alignment mechanic said that we had a bad tone ring and the easiest thing to do would be to replace the axle. A week or so later, I called him and said we were ready to do the brakes, but I have one car and he does many and I wasn't really clear, instead of doing anything with the axle or the tone ring, his shop replaced the brakes.
Somewhere around this time, the vehicle started occasionally jerking to the left. Not in a curve, but in the straightways and the best we can tell, it's mostly when we're accelerating and is most noticeable between 30 & 45 MPH. This may not be entirely true, but it's true enough that we believe it. The "jerk" sort of feels like a car driving through fresh snow "falling" into a rut. It also sort of feels what I imagine a faulty ball joint might feel like.
While it was still more of a minor issue -- it happened more rarely than it's happening now -- we took it to what I'd consider our regular mechanic and got him to replace the axle. I didn't actually say anything to him about the jerking because it was still too occasional and I was hoping it was related to the tone ring. It's now gotten progressively worse and I'm at a loss for diagnosis. You'd think that if it was the ball joint, between the two alignments, the brake job, tire replacement and rotation and getting a new axle, one of the mechanics would have noticed it.
Compounding the issue is the fact that there's two (or three if you count the first guy, four if you count the chain tire place) garages involved. Also, I've done some of the engine work my regular mechanic recommended, so there could be a thing about me getting them to diagnose and then doing the work myself or the one mechanic replacing the axle like the alignment guy had suggested. Who knows. We haven't lived here long, so there's not really a lot of history. All I know is that they all get good Yelp reviews.
Also should probably be factored... the alignment mechanic said he felt vibration around 45 MPH and because didn't think we use the 4WD, he said he disconnected the drive shaft from the CV joint (or something like that) as a means of diagnosis. (If there had been a vibration, we hadn't paid attention to it and he did this at no charge, all on his own) Also, a few years ago, prior to our move, the transmission was rebuilt twice (once under the transmission shop's warranty) and I don't remember what the vehicle was doing, but on a third trip the transmission shop had to do something with the transfer case.
Mostly around 40 MPH -- though it may just be too subtle to notice at higher speeds and we rarely drive this vehicle on the highway, so we're mostly traveling short distances at 35 & 45 MPH -- the SUV lurches a bit toward the left and there's a little jerk in the steering wheel. It really feels like I described, like it's getting caught in a rut. Both the car and the steering wheel jerks to the left side. There hasn't been any noticeable uneven wear over the three months we've been trying to figure this out and the front tires look straight up and down. We also haven't noticed any noise. Not going down the road, not when we turn or when the steering wheel jerks.
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2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
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So i cave a Clunking noise and feeling coming from the steering column every time i make a slow turn or when i am driving trow ruff roads. I can feel it through the steering wheel.
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