Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2005 - ABS And Four Wheel Drive Lights Coming On
Sep 15, 2013
I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
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This 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
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It sounds like it is coming from the Hybrid Drive. It is really loud. I can hear it as I drive down the road. The best I can figure out from reading forums is it might be some time of coolant pump the drive uses. It starts as soon as I open the door before I start it and it will keep doing it after the car is turned off.
I've posted a video with audio on youtube....
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So I am changing my transmission fluid tomorrow and was wondering a few things.
1. I noticed some people pull off the transmission hose to the inlet and keep draining that until its clear. For a drain and fill do you do it like that or just pull the plug and refill?
2. When youre filling it back up you just measure how much you taken out and then fill the rest by the dipstick? Anything else i should know?
3. Since I havent changed my transmission fluid in 60,000 miles. I wanted to do a drain and fill. I was thinking I needed to drain and fill it 3 time to catch up to maintenance. How often would you do it to get it clear? Drain and fill then drive it for a week then drain and fill? Or do it all in one day?
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We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
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I have an '02 Escape, XLT V6 with 4WD. Recently (within the last month) we had to have the engine replaced. They found that three of the coil packs were cracked on the old engine. They put the new engine in, hooked it all up, and it ran like a dream. The new engine came off another Escape and has about 122K miles (the old one had 175K). Today, I got gas and hit the highway to visit family Up North for the holiday weekend. I noticed about an hour into my drive that the car had a slight chugging feel, nothing extreme but it felt like small catch. I got to my mom's house, and then drove with my sister to the gas station and she noticed it too, it seems to have gotten more pronounced. I noticed again really bad on the way back from a friend's tonight. It seems to 'chug' when pushing on the gas or in Cruise, but not when its just coasting. What could it be?
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Fitted new snow tires with the intent of leaving them on year round. Now find that the Escape is pretty well un drivable due to shake at all speeds. Balance has been checked by two tire shops. I think that the problem is that the deep blocks of tread are "squirming"The tires are surprisingly quiet but unfortunately will have to go.
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I only have one key and 2 FOBs for my 2005 Escape, but I do have the key number (4 digits plus a letter). I understand I need more than one to program another myself. Is there an inexpensive way to obtain/program a backup key?
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Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
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I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid. Last summer, the A/C went out, so when in the fall I finally got around to having the cooling system flushed. Did the trick, and A/C works fine. Now that winter's come along, I've noticed an issue with the heat. All fan speeds work correctly, and the dash controls for heat and cold work properly. But what's odd is that I get plenty of heat when the vehicle is at speed, above about 30 mph. As soon as I slow down below that, or hit a red light, there's no heat. The blower just blows cold air until I am back up at speed again.
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I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
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2005 Ford Escape XLT (4WD) (non-Hybrid). Our Escape had uneven wear on the front tires. Because the mechanic we've used over the year we've lived here doesn't do alignments, my wife took it to a chain tire place on a Sunday afternoon because they were open. He said the ball joint was bad, so he wouldn't do an alignment and because they were super-busy and short-handed, he asked if we could bring it back during the week for an estimate.
A couple of weeks later I called my guy, who recommended a shop a few blocks over who does alignments, so we took it to him. We told him that the chain store had said about the ball joint. I'm pretty sure that before we took it to him, the car had started occasionally started jerking a bit in a curve, but it's been a couple of months and I only know for certain it was doing it after. (I'm not certain if it was doing it before because my wife was mostly driving that vehicle, then)
The first time it was in his shop, the mechanic said it wasn't the ball joint, but the tie-rod. After fixing that, he sold us a couple of tires and aligned the vehicle. On the way home is when I know I was aware of the car jerking a bit in curves. I'm pretty sure it was jerking in the direction of the curve, but again, it's been a couple of months.
Took it back to him the next day and though we suggested he test drive in one direction which had multiple curves, he said he retightened the tie-rod because one side wasn't right, ran it through alignment again and test drove it in another direction which only had one s-curve.
I want to say it was better for a while, but I can't really swear that to be the case. We've long had an ABS light which our previous mechanic in another part of the country said was the sensor. I had forgotten, but the first mechanic we used here had broken the axle and replaced it at no charge, when he was replacing the alternator.
The alignment mechanic said that we had a bad tone ring and the easiest thing to do would be to replace the axle. A week or so later, I called him and said we were ready to do the brakes, but I have one car and he does many and I wasn't really clear, instead of doing anything with the axle or the tone ring, his shop replaced the brakes.
Somewhere around this time, the vehicle started occasionally jerking to the left. Not in a curve, but in the straightways and the best we can tell, it's mostly when we're accelerating and is most noticeable between 30 & 45 MPH. This may not be entirely true, but it's true enough that we believe it. The "jerk" sort of feels like a car driving through fresh snow "falling" into a rut. It also sort of feels what I imagine a faulty ball joint might feel like.
While it was still more of a minor issue -- it happened more rarely than it's happening now -- we took it to what I'd consider our regular mechanic and got him to replace the axle. I didn't actually say anything to him about the jerking because it was still too occasional and I was hoping it was related to the tone ring. It's now gotten progressively worse and I'm at a loss for diagnosis. You'd think that if it was the ball joint, between the two alignments, the brake job, tire replacement and rotation and getting a new axle, one of the mechanics would have noticed it.
Compounding the issue is the fact that there's two (or three if you count the first guy, four if you count the chain tire place) garages involved. Also, I've done some of the engine work my regular mechanic recommended, so there could be a thing about me getting them to diagnose and then doing the work myself or the one mechanic replacing the axle like the alignment guy had suggested. Who knows. We haven't lived here long, so there's not really a lot of history. All I know is that they all get good Yelp reviews.
Also should probably be factored... the alignment mechanic said he felt vibration around 45 MPH and because didn't think we use the 4WD, he said he disconnected the drive shaft from the CV joint (or something like that) as a means of diagnosis. (If there had been a vibration, we hadn't paid attention to it and he did this at no charge, all on his own) Also, a few years ago, prior to our move, the transmission was rebuilt twice (once under the transmission shop's warranty) and I don't remember what the vehicle was doing, but on a third trip the transmission shop had to do something with the transfer case.
Mostly around 40 MPH -- though it may just be too subtle to notice at higher speeds and we rarely drive this vehicle on the highway, so we're mostly traveling short distances at 35 & 45 MPH -- the SUV lurches a bit toward the left and there's a little jerk in the steering wheel. It really feels like I described, like it's getting caught in a rut. Both the car and the steering wheel jerks to the left side. There hasn't been any noticeable uneven wear over the three months we've been trying to figure this out and the front tires look straight up and down. We also haven't noticed any noise. Not going down the road, not when we turn or when the steering wheel jerks.
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2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
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My 2008 Escape LTD AT steering wheel has a chunk out of it, so I got a steering wheel off eBay advertised as a '2008 Escape' steering wheel (came with upper part of column also). The color is the same, and it looks exactly the same - except for one cruise control button.
I don't know if there was a difference between the MT and AT cruise controls; the owners manual doesn't say. Or if maybe this wheel is from a different year than 2008. What I would like to know is if the wire connections will be the same, if the 'Set-' button is the same as the 'Cst-' button.
I'd hate to swap them and then find out there was a different pinout for the eBay cruise buttons....
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Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
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I was leaving work in my 05 Escape. Started up fine, made it to the other end of the parking lot and it died. Restarted it and made it about 10 feet and it died again. Now when I try to start it, it just make a single click. Tried getting a jump from a friend and nothing but the same click when trying to start it. Lights are bright (haven't checked batt voltage yet, but will tomorrow).
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I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
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Is there a heater core bypass valve under the hood that may be suspect or would a heat transfer door under the dash be the culprit? Engine operating temp seems to be fine.
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