Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Intermittent Rattle / Clunking When Hitting Bumps While Going Straight And Especially Turning Right
Aug 8, 2017
2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
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I have a 2001 Escape XLT, when driving thru a parking lot or otherwise at slow speed and hitting bumps, I can hear a clunking sound from the right front tire. Its especially bad if I drive over cobblestone or on a dirt road. Could this be the CV joint? Ball Joint? How can I tell what it is?
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2002 XLT 3.0L 4X4
Making a grinding sound when traveling straight or turning left. Any turn to the right (even the camber of the passing lane) and there is no grinding sound so I figured it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Replaced it yesterday.... symptoms are still there.
Tight left/right turns don't result in the popping/snapping of a bad CV joint so I don't think that's it.
I don't think it's transmission related since shifting is good and the grinding is not throttle related. Besides, turning shouldn't have an effect on the sound if it was something in the transmission, right?
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Hearing a loose heat shield like rattle when hitting bumps...checked everything underneath , can't find anything loose..? 09 GX-470 56K miles
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My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
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So I was driving home from work today and picked my daughter up from the sitters. When I got back in the car I noticed a "clunking" noise when I would hit small bumps. Trying to figure it out, I also noticed this occur when driving straight and moving the steering wheel back and forth.
The car is a 2012 SE v6 with about 26k on it.
I did install eibach springs about a month ago, but have not had any issues until now. I took both front wheels off and checked anything I would have changed when installing the slings and everything seems okay.
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When started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
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Some odd engine noise i noticed on my fiance's 2010 Ford Escape 6 cyl Limited.
I noticed it a week or so ago, the sound almost reminds me of marbles hitting metal. The sound is coming from a pulley on the driver side front of the engine bay (closest to bumper). Rather than trying to explain the sound more, listen to the two youtube clips i put up. Clip 2 from outside the grill you can hear it the most.
What this could be and what I can do to resolve? I prefer to try and fix car issues on my own rather than go to a mechanic, if possible.
Clip 1 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 1 - YouTube
Clip 2 : 2010 Ford Escape Limited Engine noise 2 - YouTube
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95 Buick Lesabre 3.8L. After replacing a broken 6" swaybar strut on the driver's side I noticed a clunking when hitting bumps on the passenger's side. (These sizes are approximate). There is a large thick 2ft long by 4"wide bar behind the front passenger wheel. The bar has 2 large bushings on both ends. The bushings are about 2 1/2" wide. The rubber bushings and support screws or rods are loose. I suspect that this is a piece of subframe. Autozone said that they cannot get the replacement bushings. Where do I get these bushings and should I look for anything else that may be damaged or worn out?
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I would describe the noise as a low rattle/knocking when i hit bumps(or the second after). i thought it might be my spare tire knocking around in its trunk well under the carpet. I actually removed it and drove around to check, but it was not the issue. I had a mechanic look at wheels/suspension because of this noise, he told me the rear passenger side sway bar link needed to be replaced. I personally ended up doing the work and replaced the right and left rear sway bar links however the noise persists.
while the rear was jacked up i tried wobbling the wheels with my hands to check for play but found nothing in any direction. The mechanic seemed to think everything else looked ok.
I only notice it at low speeds like driving around a neighborhood. The big bumps it either isnt happening or the noise is drowned out by the general sound of hitting larger bumps. But over mildly bump sections such as a bad asphalt patch chop it can be very noticeable.
Its not very consistent, its hard to predict when ill hear it and its almost like its during when my suspension settles after hitting the bump that its heard.
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Went to pick up my Touareg tonight. Took it for a quick test drive and there was a noise and rattle coming from the steering column when you hit bumps. It sounded like metal on metal. The tech guy drove it with me and agreed something is wrong. They put it up on the rack but I left because I had been there for one hour and that was already past my mental limit for being in a car dealership. I didn't sign the paperwork. Told them to call me when they figure it out and I'll come back and buy it if the problem is not significant. Everything was going great until then.
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Experiencing a plastic sounding rattle (exterior) when hitting road bumps? This noise appears to emanate from around the wheels and can only be heard when the windows are rolled down. Model is 2014 250 fsport. The car sounds cheap when this happens.
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I have a 2007 ES 350, the driver's door doesn't seem to be a snug as it ought to be. Hitting even small bumps seems to cause a jarring of the door. How to snug it up?
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I have a 2009 Escape that has developed a clunking noise in the right rear. On any bumpy roads it sounds like the shock tower lost it's top bushing but it could also be coming from somewhere lower. It also seems like the truck drifts to the right on bumpy left hand turns, kind of scary.
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I realize that is vague. I realize it could be anything from a wheel bearing to a ball joint, tie rod, control arm/control arm bushing, etc.
Are there any very common front-end steering or suspension issues on 2012 escapes? When tires are inflated to 32-34psi, the car tracks straight, gets great mileage --but almost sounds/feels like it's got a CV or wheel bearing issue on the front right. Every time I hit the brakes while backing out of the driveway I can hear a slight bump or pop. When the car is parked (flat, tires straight) there is slight play left-to-right in the steering wheel.
I'm a German car guy. Have never touched this car. (Wife's car) Right tire is wearing bad on inside. Looking for some direction so I can assess. Car has 88k miles. This will be a DIY fix. Don't have any manuals or anything so just looking for a heads up where to start. Also is Haynes the best way to go? Is there a Bentley? Anything online/CD/DVD?
Play in steering wheel makes me think tie rod (fine because easy/cheap) but such excessive wear on the inside right front makes me think wheel bearing. Could it be both? This is AWD. Is this (like a Subaru) a CV joint where the front spindle passes through a strut base that everything attaches to --so there's an inner and outer wheel bearing?
Does anything up front require a press or can it all be done without a press?
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'01 Taurus with an occasional rattle/clunking sound coming from the front end when going over bumps. Took it to the local shopping center auto. service dept. (probably 1st mistake I know) They say the only thing they could find was the RH CV boot was bad and was probably the source of the noise. Doesn't sound right to me since the boot is rubber and what I hear is more of a metal sound..what I was thinking possibly a suspension link or tie rod end. I know what a bad cv JOINT sounds like and it's nothing like this. Now if the CV boot is bad I don't mind to replace it, but I don't want to spend the money if it is not going to solve the problem. I've never heard of a boot making noise before.
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When I turn over bumps not on corners I hear nothing lol ..I just changed the tie rods for other reasons and nothing is loose in the front end now..But this sound is from the box of the truck like something is in the box bumping around when turning corners over bumps..Its frustrating and I cant find out what it is..Only happens when turning over bumps ?
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I have a 2009 Escape, 2.5l engine and manual 5 speed transmission, 205,000 miles. It has has an intermittent miss that has been getting gradually worse over the past 3 months or so. I've been seriously futzing with it for the past 2 months, so far no luck. Definitely worse when it's cold. Not noticeable at all in gears 1-3 (even when cold), noticeable in 4th, mostly between ~2000-2500 RPM, and pretty bad when cold in 5th in the same RPM range, still noticeable when warm. No service engine light until today (#1 misfire).
If I let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes or so, the miss is much less noticeable. Replaced the plugs, absolutely no difference. Bought one COP and cycled through all cylinders, no difference. Finally broke down and took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it new and had them do a power balance test, which isolated it to cylinder #1. Swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and took it back to Ford, still showing cylinder #1. Did a compression test, #1 and #2 both around 165lbs, #3 and #4 both around 185lbs.
I'm a electrical engineer, so I spent some quality time with an oscilloscope to compare the drive waveforms of the #1 and #2 cylinder COP and injector...both COP and injector drive waveforms look identical when comparing to #2 cyl. Tried heating the PCM, made no difference (engine was cold, PCM was hot).
So it finally DID throw a code today, cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking I can almost hear a miss at idle now. And listening to the valvetrain at idle, there is unmistakably more valve noise coming from the #1 intake area than the other cylinders, but not terrible.
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Why my BU assist on/off button is intermittant? It comes on and off when "it" wants to but won't respond when "I" push it. When it's on, it works fine but when it's off, I can't turn it on but the "off" light is still functional. Switch, relay, sub computer?
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I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 4WD, it has a rattle in the motor and no acceleration... Bought the escape with the rattle when you start it up and put into drive it wont accelerate. Transmission is good...
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