Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2004 - Code PO136 For Bank 1 Sensor 2
Aug 28, 2016
Wife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
View 3 RepliesWife's 04 Escape threw the PO136 code for bank 1 sensor 2 02 sensor. Replaced it and light is off. Not convinced something else isn't causing it.
View 3 Replies2004 XLT 3.0L 141K
I just bought the truck on Monday, the CEL popped up on Tues. It shows code 0136. No other codes. CAT "not ready" on scan tool
A google search proved this is a common topic that for some owners is a repeating and cronic sort of issue. What I've read online is that there is an assortment of things that can cause this O2 sensor to throw this code:
Actual bad O2 sensor
Faulty wiring or connection
Misfire throwing mix off
bad convertor
I don't believe this list covers all the accounts I read but these I have were definitely repeat offenders. My intention is to take to a dealer and let them have first crack at sorting it out. I'm handy enough but I see this as something where an unseen detail can drive ya crazy.
I have been getting a CEL P0420 for low cat efficiency bank 1 on my 2002 Ford Escape V6. The truck runs fine otherwise. I have ran two loads of Cataclean and the light keeps coming back a few days after CEL reset so I am pretty sure one of cats is done. I am going to replace with an aftermarket cat. My question is, with this code, do I need to replace the front exhaust manifold cat or the rear manifold cat?
View 1 RepliesMy 02 Explorer (XLT, 4.0) decided to throw a new code today. PO136, O2 Sensor Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2).
While it may be a wire issue, I still plan to replace the sensor. So the question is;
Can I get to it from under the vehicle or is there an access panel under the console like on the 2nd gens?
I have the sensor on order and plan to get it done on my days off next week.
The service truck threw a CEL, and i pulled oxygen sensor performance bank one sensor one code. That would be driver side sensor between the manifold and cat, rite? Don't want to change the wrong one...
View 11 RepliesSo I just replace my Cat. Converter with all new sensors in them. I just replaced my spark plugs. (I'm knocking out these check engine light problems) and I think I'm getting close to the root as to why these other parts went bad. Why my o2 sensor would be stuck on "lean" ....
View 5 RepliesWhat airbag code 36 is and how to fix it?
Its a 2004 3.0L limited .....
P0403 code that came up on our 2004 Escape 3.0.
Weekend before last I dropped the oil pan, cleaned it and the pickup screen out, and replaced the gasket (switching to full synthetic has been a double edged sword with the leaks that are popping up...); put in new plugs new upper intake manifold gasket and cleaned the throttle body and manifold out. All vacuum hoses inline with the EGR solenoid have also been replaced since the light went on.
While driving the following day the check engine light (CEL) came on and when checked at pep boys read P0403 (no other codes for low EGR flow, etc.). Now, the EGR solenoid is the newest non-regular maintenance item under that hood because the same code came up a couple of years ago (a new solenoid from pep boys fixed that lickety split) so I wasn't overly concerned that it had popped up again, but a bit frustrated that the solenoid only lasted as long as it did. Also, since the light popped up, I have replaced a couple of vacuum lines with some generic 4mm ID (5/32", I think) rubber vacuum hose, but that just headed off what looked like some potential future problem leaks.
Now, here I am a couple of weeks later having tried 4.5 new solenoids (Amazon sent me one with the wrong wiring harness clip so I couldn't verify that it was connected when it didn't work), and thrown some other "just in case" parts at it (new EGR valve and flow sensor, but these may be returned, but may just end up keeping them on, we'll see how things work out). I'm getting a solid reading from the hot lead on the solenoid harness at idle and during static revving, but I can't seem to get anything on the ground pin.
I've cleaned the connections and the larger pin block going into the top of the firewall to no avail. Should this read as a fluttering ground signal all the time, is it only grounded exactly when it wants the solenoid to open the EGR? What can I do to confirm that it should read grounded so I can know one way or the other whether there is a break in the line? I can't find my multimeter (or just dreamed that I picked one up last year). I'm also curious as to whether or not there's a good way to bench test the solenoid. I don't really get a reaction when I hook it up to 12v directly like I do with a vacuum solenoid from my Saab where there's an audible "click."
Is the wire harness for the solenoid a known weak spot? I've found two potential donors at the local junk yard that I can cut the wires out of to play around with/solder a new one in if that's something that the consensus deems may solve my cause. I also had an ABS light come on not too long after the CEL, but when I reset the CEL the ABS light went away and never came back (it only came on when I hit a big expansion joint on a highway bridge, no braking issues since it's been reset and ABS seems to be fully functional, per gravel road test). I still can't seem to read any ground signal at the solenoid harness at idle or with throttle input. I'd like to fix it, but don't want to start digging into the wires blind.
Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
View 2 RepliesI'm pulling a P0403 EGR circuit fault on a 2004 v6 Escape.
Last night I changed out the EGR solenoid. Cleared the code and drove around for a while, got on the highway and cruised for a few miles and everything seemed fine. Turn the car off and back on and the code showed up again.
My next step will be to check the electrical connection to the solenoid. I don't do a lot of auto repair.
With my multimeter I will check for 12 volts. But from what I understand I can not check ground as the PCM sends ground to the solenoid to activate it. How should I check the electrical connections to the EGR solenoid?
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
I own a 1998 Mitsubishi Mirage with about 190,000 miles on it. The engine light has started coming on and I get three codes:
P0170 Fuel Trim Bank 1P0136 Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
Read more: [URL] ....
1997 f250 LD pick up 5.4L engine 131000 miles
Here is my story week ago code came on p0153 bank 2 sensor 1
Slow response ... now I been reading around and some people say bank 2 is passenger side other say it is drivers side or bank 1 is where cylinder 1 is , the point is I'm confused here for bank locations and sensor locations .....
The facts: 2009 4x4 V6 Escape with Valve stem mounted TPMS
I am getting a tire pressure sensor malfunction fault. The warning light is on and the error message is displayed on the little screen in the gauge cluster.
What I have tried: First I should say I have replace to defective sensor twice now...
1) I put the escape in tpms train mode by hitting the hazard switch off/on about 6 times.
2) I used the train tool to train all the tires but there is one that is giving me trouble and will not train.
3) I tried deflating the problem tire and inflating it to the specified pressure given on the be pillar of the escape (30 psig)... after inflating it I tried to retain it with no luck.
4) I tried rotating the tires and as I mentioned earlier I have replaces the problem sensor twice. Still can't can't get the problem tire to train.
My thoughts:
1) I don't think this is a module error because I can train the other tires and since I rotated them I know their position is not a factor.
2) its possible that I have got two defective tpms sensors but I think that is unlikely.
3) I have read of another procedure to put the escape in tpms train mode that requires you to turn the ignition on/off, step on the break pedal, tap your head and rub your belly, etc... but I have not tried this method. Is there a difference from this train mode verse hitting the hazard switch on/off about 6 times?
4) Does the train tool only work on previously trained sensors? do I need to register the new TPMS sensor with the TPMS module? I have an OBDII tool that connects to scanXL software on my laptop which included the ford proprietary protocol. I looked for a way to program a tpms sensor (similar to how I did it with my toyota) but couldn't find the option.
I keep getting a lean bank code. I have cleaned tb and replaced one of the rubber lines. It only comes on when I take a good ride with the truck. Not sure what else it could be. I'm thinking O2 sensor maybe.
2008 F-350 5.4 3V. 65k miles
I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
Over the weekend my 2008 Escape Hybrid manifest 2 problems the same day.
1. The remote keyless entry button stopped working (thought it was dead battery in key)
2. Got a error message 'Tire Pressure Sensor Fault'
So after suffering with having to actually unlock my car with a key (heehee/see sarcastic grin) and getting irritated by the error message. I asked the internet about my symptoms. Got the standard answers of "bad tire pressure sensor/reprogram" and change the battery in the key. But ONE and only one person (namely Enviroguy ) said what I thought was going on - that these two problems were related. (afterall it is 2 wireless devices in the car.)
Changing the key fob battery had no effect & Both keys were unresponsive. Seeing what Enviroguy said about certain chargers or wireless devices can cause interference in the tire sensor and keyless systems. .... Then I remember that I had been using a new no-name charger for my cell phone when this problem started.
I unplugged that charger.....(it was a cheap generic power point to USB adapter). The Keyless system is working... ! The tire pressure error has vanished.... !
I did not go to the car appointment.... Now let's hope this was in fact the problem! May my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid "Be Healed!"
I have a P0171 code (lean bank 1 sensor 1) on my 2002 toyota camry 4 cylinder. I don't have any other codes except for an unrelated P1780 neutral safety switch code. It has had both codes for over a year.
I have replaced the fuel filter, the upstream o2 sensor, and the PCV valve. I also cleaned the MAF sensor. The mechanic performed a smoke test and found no vacuum leaks. Did a fuel pressure test and it's normal. Mechanic thought it would be fuel pressure because the car starts a bit slow when cold, but nope. The car runs great and still gets great gas mileage. I've never experienced a misfire in my 12 years of owning the car. I am asking because I am at a loss as to what it could be.
Got the CEL Bank 1 Sensor 2 heater circuit fault. Is that the rear right post-cat oxygen sensor? What is correct part number or possibly a link? 2002 2.8l Passat V6...
View 3 RepliesMy 1999 Camry - 4 cyc has a trouble code of P0136. Auto Zone told me it is a defective bank 1 sensor 2. As per the repair manual, the front passenger seat has to be removed to get to the sensor's electrical connector but an internet video shows that the driver seat has to be removed. Replacing the heated bank 1 sensor 2 on a Camry before?
View 9 RepliesWhere can I find the key pad code on an 08 escape? I don't have the card in the glove box and I don't want to pay the dealer. It should be printed on the security module box. Where to find it? On my f250 it was under the dash behind radio.
View 14 Replies