After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
View 9 RepliesMy escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
View 3 Replies2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
Couple weeks ago, was in a spot that needed 4wd. Turned the switch, the 4x4 dash light came on, but rear wheels didn't do anything. Lucky that we were able to get out with ft wheels only. Has 3.0, xlt version.
View 13 RepliesI am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
View 2 RepliesI have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
Over the past few days the battery light has been flickering and at times staying on. In using the gauge cluster diagnostics, I am getting 12.4 engine off and 13.8 - 14.0 with the engine running.
Even when I'm driving with the battery warning light on I still get a consistent 13.8 - 14.0 (and I do have the headlights on, the A/C running, radio, etc).
Kind of scratching my head on this issue since it appears the alternator and battery are working correctly.
I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesSo we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
View 11 RepliesThe wifes 2011 Escape battery was dead. Charged it and also found that the rear wiper motor was not working. But it was very hot to the touch even with the car shut off. It was killing the battery. I wonder if the wiper needs to complete it's cycle to shut down. It won't work. Again it gets very hot even with the car shut down for the day I believe killing the battery. Also how can the wiper motor assembly be removed?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Prius can't find the posting for the older Prius' second battery is dead need to get in to garage to change battery how to unlock trans?
View 4 RepliesMy check engine light came on, I took the car to my usual mechanic, and he said the codes returned indicated that two cells in the batter were bad. (I just called to get the codes, but he's out of the office for about 30 minutes on a test drive...)
View 8 RepliesI am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
I have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
My 2010 Prius sat idle, parked for 7 days while my wife and I were on vacation. When we went to pick up the car, the airport valet said that the Prius wouldn't start, and so that they'd have to jump it. I approved the jumpstart, and got into the car. We got about 1/4 a mile before the display totally freaked out, including the "check hybrid system" as well as about every warning light there is. The car was beeping, acceleration was lost and it eventually died on the side of the road. The car would not start back up.
Had it towed to the nearest dealership. Initial diag from the service manager was that the 12v battery was dead. I approved replacement of that, and also authorized clearing out "a few software alerts". Got a call later in the day from the same manager (very nice guy) and there are about 11 errors that cannot be cleared out. Now he's asking for 3-4 hours labor to "trace the wiring" as suggested by Toyota. Apparently the tech had been in touch with them all day.
I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
View 9 RepliesShe has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
View 3 RepliesSo my wife's 2005 escape currently will not start. It was running rough so we brought it in to the shop to have the codes read. There was a bad MAF sensor code so we brought it home and were gonna replace the part the next day. The next day rolls around and it refuses to start. Swapped out the spark plugs which was much needed, replaced the valve cover gasket, which had also gone bad, and put in a new MAF sensor. It still refuses to start. It will turn over, but never starts. Also, the sound as it turns over doesn't sound right. It's hard to explain what sounds off about it, it almost has a "soft" sound to it. I can try to explain better if needed.
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