Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 XLT Catches For A Moment And Acts Like Going To Die And Corrects Itself
Oct 5, 2013
Original owner 2003 XLT, 3.0, 58K. When in drive and stopped at a light it decelerates and wants to bottom out. No stutter or sputter. Just "catches" for a moment and acts like it going to die and it corrects itself. Can happen up to two times at a long light. It's very scary so I put in park until the light changes. Took it to a shop yesterday and he cleaned the throttle. It had a lot of black stuff that the spray cleaned out and hoped that was the problem as he said it was sticking some. Drive it home, put it in drive, sat in the driveway simulating a long stop light and it did it again.
No CEL. Up to date on all recall notices. Had fuel pump, fuel filter, two coils all spark plugs replaced in January. Yesterday cleaned the MAF and IAC.
On my way to work yesterday, I got on the interstate and it seemed almost like it was missing. I immediately took the next exit and that's when I had the IAC cleaned and I cleaned the MAF. The mechanic did a quick scan and didn't see anything. He did mention it was running rich but otherwise wasn't sure what the problem is. I forgot to ask what scanner he used but can find out later this morning.
It seems worse when cold. Also, I am female and can follow directions like how to remove and clean the MAF and get correct cleaner for it but not much beyond that. I need to know what else may need to be checked. Also added some Lucas fuel injector cleaner a couple of weeks ago.
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I just did a Sable 3.0 engine swap on my 01 Escape auto 4WD with 112K miles. Prior engine spun several lower end bearings. New motor runs fine. Prior to swap, trans operated fine. Didn't have any of the apparently common 2-3 flare or OD shudder problems. Car was dealer maintained and fluid looked fine - didn't look or smell burned.
Now, after the engine swap, from a stop or at low RPM situations like around a slow corner, the trans seems starved. Have to rev the engine a bit to get the pressure up, car jerks into gear and then trans operates fine. Shifts through all gears fine and goes into and out of OD fine. This happens from a stop when trying to shift into either Fwd or Rev. Feels like the trans is low on fluid, but it's not.
I drained the trans prior to doing the swap and refilled with Mercon, not Mercon V.
No engine codes. Kept my OBDII reader on while driving to see if it threw any temp codes. Still no codes.
I'm sure that the trans was reinstalled correctly. I'm sure the TC didn't cram the pump.
If I recall, there are only four trans sensors and I'm sure I hooked them up correctly.
I'd like to like this car but it's getting pretty hard. Since I bought it a month ago, I've been under it more than I've been in it.
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My ford escape won't let me unlock it my remote start doesn't work but the cars runs fine but today i locked my car before i turned it off which is what i always do. to lock it and when i went to unlock it manually i heard a pop sound and my key won't turn and there's no other way to unlock my car i walked around it 3 times trying to look for a key slot. How to unlock it.???
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My 2003 ford escape wont shut off with the key off and out of ignition as long as the air conditioning running once I shut the air off the car will shut off. Where to start.
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Not always & seemingly at random. Just like at startup after battery reconnect.
Most searches come back only with incidents at startup only. Recommendations say battery &/or alternator. Battery is Optima Red that's been in there maybe 6-7 years and all connections are clean & reads 12.48 at rest.
Alt is a AC Delco new unit replaced 20k or so ago & reading 14.24 at idle with or with out any accessory drain on the system or RPM.
Troubling thing is a code for coil misfire on # 5 which put it into limp mode (I erased & so far hasn't returned) & some comm issues with the Inova 1403 that I'm using.
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No key on prime. Inertia switch OK. Zero line pressure when filter removed & changed. Tries to start with ether. Front 3 coils are for sure firing. Swapped the pump relay with fan relay, no change, no prime.
I'm working with an 03 factory hard copy manual & I'm just not seeing a testing procedure, but I'm bat blind sometimes. What I'm missing? The patient had run fine all day, stopped for an hour. Got back in, started badly, shook somewhat, died, no start since.
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I have error 19 on airbag warning light. I plan to replace RCM and have it programmed to vehicle. Where is RCM located on 2003 Escape, V6?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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My mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
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Just wanted to post a recent experience I had with the catalytic converter issues Escapes seem to be prone to. A friend has a 2003 Escape 4x4 with the 3.0 V-6 and automatic transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it, she bought it with 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
Recently it developed driveability issues: No power with a whistling noise and top speed of 10 M.P.H. I researched on here and her symptoms matched threads that came up using the search function. I told her I was pretty sure the front cat was bad and had plugged the rear cat, causing the issue. She took it to a local repair shop and confirmed my diagnosis. Their estimate for repair was north of $1,500.00. My neighbor and I were sure we could repair it cheaper.
We towed it to my house and pulled the front and rear-most cats. As suspected they were both bad. The back cat on the engine looked pristine inside so we left it alone. We ordered all of our parts from rockauto. New front and rear-most cats, exhaust and intake gaskets, serpentine belt, and one O2 sensor that was damaged when the insides of the front cat let go.
Installation was straight forward with no major issues. We also changed the plugs with brand new ones she had purchased but never had installed. The vehicle now runs fantastic and she is extremely happy with it.
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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Subject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
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Well, I bought a used 2003 Escape for my daughter and without thoroughly researching the airbag light, now have a problem. The light flashes twice, pause, then once, so I think this is error code 21? I cannot find anything on what this code is and how to fix it. I disconnected battery for an hour and now I get 4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes, 46 error.
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My wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
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2003 Escape 2.0L ... I occasionally hear a single "pop" sound when I turn left. It seems to be coming from the area of the right rear wheel. Any obvious candidates for this issue?
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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