Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 V6 Pegs Needles On Acceleration
Dec 17, 2014
Not always & seemingly at random. Just like at startup after battery reconnect.
Most searches come back only with incidents at startup only. Recommendations say battery &/or alternator. Battery is Optima Red that's been in there maybe 6-7 years and all connections are clean & reads 12.48 at rest.
Alt is a AC Delco new unit replaced 20k or so ago & reading 14.24 at idle with or with out any accessory drain on the system or RPM.
Troubling thing is a code for coil misfire on # 5 which put it into limp mode (I erased & so far hasn't returned) & some comm issues with the Inova 1403 that I'm using.
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I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 4WD, it has a rattle in the motor and no acceleration... Bought the escape with the rattle when you start it up and put into drive it wont accelerate. Transmission is good...
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I have a 2006 Ford Escape that's turning into a mystery. Over the last few months the warning lights have been reporting issues with the overdrive. I've taken it to the mechanic who hasn't been able to identify the issue.
He's cleared the issues from the ECU, and the car doesn't complain for about 2 weeks, then it reports a different issue related to the overdrive (eg: OD or transmission).
Possibly related, the car occasionally loses power on acceleration. When taking off from a stop, it'll be really underpowered while getting up to speed. This only happens occasionally.
Is it a part failure, or could it be electrical or related to the sensors?
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My ford escape won't let me unlock it my remote start doesn't work but the cars runs fine but today i locked my car before i turned it off which is what i always do. to lock it and when i went to unlock it manually i heard a pop sound and my key won't turn and there's no other way to unlock my car i walked around it 3 times trying to look for a key slot. How to unlock it.???
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My 2003 ford escape wont shut off with the key off and out of ignition as long as the air conditioning running once I shut the air off the car will shut off. Where to start.
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No key on prime. Inertia switch OK. Zero line pressure when filter removed & changed. Tries to start with ether. Front 3 coils are for sure firing. Swapped the pump relay with fan relay, no change, no prime.
I'm working with an 03 factory hard copy manual & I'm just not seeing a testing procedure, but I'm bat blind sometimes. What I'm missing? The patient had run fine all day, stopped for an hour. Got back in, started badly, shook somewhat, died, no start since.
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I have error 19 on airbag warning light. I plan to replace RCM and have it programmed to vehicle. Where is RCM located on 2003 Escape, V6?
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I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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My mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
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Just wanted to post a recent experience I had with the catalytic converter issues Escapes seem to be prone to. A friend has a 2003 Escape 4x4 with the 3.0 V-6 and automatic transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it, she bought it with 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
Recently it developed driveability issues: No power with a whistling noise and top speed of 10 M.P.H. I researched on here and her symptoms matched threads that came up using the search function. I told her I was pretty sure the front cat was bad and had plugged the rear cat, causing the issue. She took it to a local repair shop and confirmed my diagnosis. Their estimate for repair was north of $1,500.00. My neighbor and I were sure we could repair it cheaper.
We towed it to my house and pulled the front and rear-most cats. As suspected they were both bad. The back cat on the engine looked pristine inside so we left it alone. We ordered all of our parts from rockauto. New front and rear-most cats, exhaust and intake gaskets, serpentine belt, and one O2 sensor that was damaged when the insides of the front cat let go.
Installation was straight forward with no major issues. We also changed the plugs with brand new ones she had purchased but never had installed. The vehicle now runs fantastic and she is extremely happy with it.
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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Original owner 2003 XLT, 3.0, 58K. When in drive and stopped at a light it decelerates and wants to bottom out. No stutter or sputter. Just "catches" for a moment and acts like it going to die and it corrects itself. Can happen up to two times at a long light. It's very scary so I put in park until the light changes. Took it to a shop yesterday and he cleaned the throttle. It had a lot of black stuff that the spray cleaned out and hoped that was the problem as he said it was sticking some. Drive it home, put it in drive, sat in the driveway simulating a long stop light and it did it again.
No CEL. Up to date on all recall notices. Had fuel pump, fuel filter, two coils all spark plugs replaced in January. Yesterday cleaned the MAF and IAC.
On my way to work yesterday, I got on the interstate and it seemed almost like it was missing. I immediately took the next exit and that's when I had the IAC cleaned and I cleaned the MAF. The mechanic did a quick scan and didn't see anything. He did mention it was running rich but otherwise wasn't sure what the problem is. I forgot to ask what scanner he used but can find out later this morning.
It seems worse when cold. Also, I am female and can follow directions like how to remove and clean the MAF and get correct cleaner for it but not much beyond that. I need to know what else may need to be checked. Also added some Lucas fuel injector cleaner a couple of weeks ago.
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Subject Vehicle: 2003 Ford Escape Limited AWD V6
Mileage: 165,878
The front brake line hoses blew out (R & L) while driving in the city. The parking brake was ineffective in slowing the vehicle as it was traveling down hill. With no means of slowing, the vehicle was turned into a parking lot in an attempt to get on level ground where it was more controllable and could be stopped more easily. The parking lot was not large enough to slow the vehicle and a choice had to be made to crash into a building or drive off the edge of the parking lot to another lot that was approximately 4 feet lower. The 2nd option was chosen. Once the vehicle had landed with great force, it was directed uphill where it eventually came to a stop and put into park.
Unfortunately, extensive damage was done to the frame and underside of the vehicle including oil pan, exhaust system, engine mounts, radiator support frame and under body engine and transmission mounting points. I was told by the tow truck driver, the Firestone auto center and found in other research that Ford Escapes are known for rubber brake line failures. I have had vehicles much older than this and have never had a rubber brake line dry rot and rupture like these. This seems to be a known issue and should be addressed before more damage is done and more people injured or worse. We were lucky. This could have been much worse. Safety issues like this need to be addressed with an immediate recall.
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Well, I bought a used 2003 Escape for my daughter and without thoroughly researching the airbag light, now have a problem. The light flashes twice, pause, then once, so I think this is error code 21? I cannot find anything on what this code is and how to fix it. I disconnected battery for an hour and now I get 4 flashes, pause, 6 flashes, 46 error.
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My wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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My 2003 Escape 2.0L has the "door ajar" light on the dash permanently lit, including with the engine off and key removed, which means that I have to switch the courtesy light on and off by hand or else it stays on.
Obvious first guess is a fault with a door or tailgate switch, but they all look OK to a visual inspection. Are there any multimeter tests I can do? Any specific voltages, resistances to look for?
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I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
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