Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 - No Power With A Whistling Noise And Top Speed Of 10 MPH
May 7, 2012
Just wanted to post a recent experience I had with the catalytic converter issues Escapes seem to be prone to. A friend has a 2003 Escape 4x4 with the 3.0 V-6 and automatic transmission. It has 141,000 miles on it, she bought it with 40,000 miles on the vehicle.
Recently it developed driveability issues: No power with a whistling noise and top speed of 10 M.P.H. I researched on here and her symptoms matched threads that came up using the search function. I told her I was pretty sure the front cat was bad and had plugged the rear cat, causing the issue. She took it to a local repair shop and confirmed my diagnosis. Their estimate for repair was north of $1,500.00. My neighbor and I were sure we could repair it cheaper.
We towed it to my house and pulled the front and rear-most cats. As suspected they were both bad. The back cat on the engine looked pristine inside so we left it alone. We ordered all of our parts from rockauto. New front and rear-most cats, exhaust and intake gaskets, serpentine belt, and one O2 sensor that was damaged when the insides of the front cat let go.
Installation was straight forward with no major issues. We also changed the plugs with brand new ones she had purchased but never had installed. The vehicle now runs fantastic and she is extremely happy with it.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
So heres the story..........'02 Escape, 179K miles, just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago, ever since then I've smelled oil burning when the car starts up and every now and then after exiting the car. Also have had the check engine light on intermittently for the EGR insufficient flow for the past few months. It comes and goes whenever it wants. Today Wifey called me and said something was wrong with the car, I drove it home (about 26 miles). The car runs fine as shifts through the gears, but as soon as it gets a load put on it, it cant pull hard like it used to and it gets a high pitched/squealy whistle similar to a turbo that's spooled up.
Its hard to say where its coming from but from what I can tell I'd say somewhere under the hood near the glove box. (that's the only way I can think of to describe it). There's a big long hill right outside her work that I wasn't sure I was gonna make it up. Car just didn't have any power and couldn't decide what gear to be in as RPMs were too high in a lower gear but wouldn't pull in the higher gear. Car pulls hard off the bottom but falls flat in the midrange. I was thinking maybe clogged cat but what would the whistling sound be?
View 14 Replies
ok this has me stumped I get this buzzing/humming/vibration sound from what seems like around Defroster passenger side but it is not all the time only at higher speeds and it it intermittent . I have removed cabin filter and cleaned filter box and checked for a leaf or something even sealed somewhat the plastic shield that covers the cabin filter. I really don't want to rip dash apart but it is so annoying
View 14 Replies
I'm experiencing the tug/jerk/shuddering in my 2012 Escape v6. It happens more around 70mph or 2,000-2,500rpm.
Tug/jerk/lurch/buck happens even more with OD off. Happens around 60mph or 2000rpm with OD off.
Been to the dealer several times even test drove with a mechanic that acknowledges the tug/jerk sensation. No codes or faults. Last visit the dealer showed me a print out of misfire counts and all cylinders were 0 yet on the drive home it was tug/jerk/lurching.
View 5 Replies
I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
View 5 Replies
Recently picked up a 2007 Escape with 108,000 miles. The vehicle is in great condition with a full service history. Recently I've noticed a bit of shimmy in the steering wheel and noise from the front drivers side wheel accompanying the shimmy.
At speeds of 50mph+ the shimmy will start. When going straight there is not much of an issue but when a gradual right hand turn on the highway the shimmy starts. Back to straight and it goes away. Not really noticeable on left hand curves.
Steering issue?
Tie Rods?
Bearings?
I'm going to dig into it to get it fixed.
View 1 Replies
I've read quite a bit in various threads about the large vacuum elbow collapsing, causing erratic idle speeds. My 2001 3.0 had that issue int he past. I shoved a 1/2" copper 45 degree elbow inside of the rubber elbow, and the problem was solved... until a few days ago.
We're now getting into the hot part of summer here. I've notice the same symptoms are beginning to return, once the engine compartment gets hot. My question is... is the large vacuum line a "hard line" all the rest of the way to the engine, or are there other places along it's length that can also collapse under vacuum?
View 3 Replies
I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
View 14 Replies
My ford escape won't let me unlock it my remote start doesn't work but the cars runs fine but today i locked my car before i turned it off which is what i always do. to lock it and when i went to unlock it manually i heard a pop sound and my key won't turn and there's no other way to unlock my car i walked around it 3 times trying to look for a key slot. How to unlock it.???
View 2 Replies
My 2003 ford escape wont shut off with the key off and out of ignition as long as the air conditioning running once I shut the air off the car will shut off. Where to start.
View 2 Replies
ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
View 5 Replies
Our escape recently started loosing its power steering, once the engine is shut off the power steering is ok. Also some times you can feel a pulsing in the steering wheel. I've been doing some googling and it looks like the dealers are replacing the steering columns to fix the problem.
My question : is this the only fix or if something like some contacts being cleaned or maybe replacing a steering sensor of some kind is the fix.
View 5 Replies
Not always & seemingly at random. Just like at startup after battery reconnect.
Most searches come back only with incidents at startup only. Recommendations say battery &/or alternator. Battery is Optima Red that's been in there maybe 6-7 years and all connections are clean & reads 12.48 at rest.
Alt is a AC Delco new unit replaced 20k or so ago & reading 14.24 at idle with or with out any accessory drain on the system or RPM.
Troubling thing is a code for coil misfire on # 5 which put it into limp mode (I erased & so far hasn't returned) & some comm issues with the Inova 1403 that I'm using.
View 6 Replies
No key on prime. Inertia switch OK. Zero line pressure when filter removed & changed. Tries to start with ether. Front 3 coils are for sure firing. Swapped the pump relay with fan relay, no change, no prime.
I'm working with an 03 factory hard copy manual & I'm just not seeing a testing procedure, but I'm bat blind sometimes. What I'm missing? The patient had run fine all day, stopped for an hour. Got back in, started badly, shook somewhat, died, no start since.
View 13 Replies
I have error 19 on airbag warning light. I plan to replace RCM and have it programmed to vehicle. Where is RCM located on 2003 Escape, V6?
View 4 Replies
I'm replacing the ignition lock cylinder on my 03 Escape. The factory cylinder has the little black "wings" that nestle around the key when inserted:
The locksmith says the replacement cylinder needs to have those same wings for him to be change it. Is this correct? The auto part stores have the regular cylinder (with no wings) readily available, but the one with wings is a special-order item and I need this sooner rather than later.
Plus, the wingless one includes keys while the other appears to have none.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
View 3 Replies
After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
View 9 Replies
My mother-in-law has a 2003 Escape with a V-6. For the last week the rear lift gate and window will not open. Tried the door key and the driver's side door unlocked. Turned the key again within three seconds (according to the operator's manual). The two lights flashed, the remaining doors opened except for the rear gate. I pressed my ear to the gate and it sounds like it is trying to release the locking mechanism. Any recommendations?
View 7 Replies
2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
View 14 Replies
Original owner 2003 XLT, 3.0, 58K. When in drive and stopped at a light it decelerates and wants to bottom out. No stutter or sputter. Just "catches" for a moment and acts like it going to die and it corrects itself. Can happen up to two times at a long light. It's very scary so I put in park until the light changes. Took it to a shop yesterday and he cleaned the throttle. It had a lot of black stuff that the spray cleaned out and hoped that was the problem as he said it was sticking some. Drive it home, put it in drive, sat in the driveway simulating a long stop light and it did it again.
No CEL. Up to date on all recall notices. Had fuel pump, fuel filter, two coils all spark plugs replaced in January. Yesterday cleaned the MAF and IAC.
On my way to work yesterday, I got on the interstate and it seemed almost like it was missing. I immediately took the next exit and that's when I had the IAC cleaned and I cleaned the MAF. The mechanic did a quick scan and didn't see anything. He did mention it was running rich but otherwise wasn't sure what the problem is. I forgot to ask what scanner he used but can find out later this morning.
It seems worse when cold. Also, I am female and can follow directions like how to remove and clean the MAF and get correct cleaner for it but not much beyond that. I need to know what else may need to be checked. Also added some Lucas fuel injector cleaner a couple of weeks ago.
View 14 Replies
