Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 - After Sitting Overnight Blowing Blue Smoke Then Dies?
May 1, 2014
I have a 2003 ford escape V6 and i have notice when i start it' after setting overnight i notice some blue smoke for a little while then it's stop What could be causing this.
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I have a 2002 2.4L Camry with 120K miles. I plan to keep it for another 10 years so want to get it in better shape. All I've done so far is air filters and changing the oil. I did let oil changes go way too long a few times then at 70K miles started emitting blue smoke only at startup after sitting overnight. It looks like valve stem seals so the engine uses oil now but it's tolerable and I really need to avoid spending big bucks unless there's a breakdown.
I've read about a procedure to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head using compressed air, but am a bit scared to try it for fear I will get in over my head.
I'm planning on getting up to date on all recommended inspections, changing spark plugs, coolant, air filter and cabin filter and plan on changing the oil from conventional over to 10w30 synthetic w/ subsequent 5,000 mile intervals from now on. I'm in a better financial situation now so can afford parts but want to try to do all labor myself unless a mechanic is necessary for something extremely important or critical.
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I just picked up a 2004 ford escape and information is difficult for me to obtain. Person I purchased from had all new suspension installed. Says it needs new transmission.
My indications: Vehicle starts right up dies/stalls with anything above throttle. Major lack of power. Was able to put in Reverse and it moved a bit and same as drive. Smoke from rear of engine. Seems like coolant dumping into exhaust. shake on exhaust you can hear slosh slosh in exhaust.
No engine trouble codes no lights on dash.
Am I looking at a headgasket? This has the 3.0 duratec v6 with the water pump belt driven by the cam on the driver side. Open up the oil cap there is the timing chain. serpentine belt is on passenger side of engine. There is no coolant/water in the engine oil but the coolant is disappearing FAST. no coolant on spark plugs that indicate its in the cylendars.
Was going to check compression but the compression tester I have only threads up to 14mm. to small for the hole. I can probably rent a tester with proper sizes if needed. Fuel pressure at the rail primes to 60 psi and stays there. Stays at 60 psi while running as well.
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01 7.3 247k.
Yesterday went to get on the freeway I looked back and saw a cloud of what looked like blue smoke. I'm in northern Utah and it's cold but the truck runs fine, I haven't noticed any change in performance. Turbo still builds boost. I pulled the fuel filter cap last night to check fuel color and it was clean.
I do have the CCV mod done. I also pulled to IC Pipe off the turbo and there was a little oil in there but not much, should there be any at all with the CCV mod? Where to start.
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My turbo started to have oil on the top of it. I don't know where it's coming from at all, it started to blow blue smoke but not all the time. You can also smell the oil burning off.. someone said maybe the pcv system but not sure. Still new to the vw world only owned the car for about 4 months. Trying to add pics but it's not working.. Will keep trying
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I am only at 141,000 miles and I'm seeing blue smoke while I idle! It started as a small puff of blue smoke when cold starting up...now it is much more consistent. I am also getting a diag trouble code of P0674 (glow plug in cylinder 4) can that be the cause? I'm nervous since I didn't watch my tech put oil in the truck at the last oil change...I think he put four gallons in instead of 15 quarts...is that a prob?
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I have a 2005 Escape with about 95k miles that won't crank after sitting in the sun on a very warm day. It's intermittent and might be OK for weeks.
This isn't when the engine is hot - it's when the air temperature is in the 80's+ and the black car is parked in the sun. This is the 1st warm weather we've had in several weeks and right on que, it didn't start this afternoon.
The battery is good and there is not voltage to the solenoid when cranking. I've used 2 sets of keys and replaced the PAT sensor ring hoping it was something anti-theft related.
Today, I switched out each under-hood relay (moved them to other locations) and still nada. Luckily today it's DOA in my driveway but may start later.
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I have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
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First some background. The vehicle is a 2003 Expedition with rear AC. The 5.4L engine has been replaced with a 4BT Cummins (DD since 2010), but the AC system is not altered-- other than the compressor being mounted to a different engine. The intercooler is in front of the condenser, which hurts efficiency of the AC system, but it seems to work fine in our climate.
My AC system quit cooling one day, and the problem was a hole in one of the low-side tubes from rubbing on the turbo-to-intercooler tube. I repaired this by aluminum brazing. The system held 120 psi on nitrogen for one hour. So I pumped it down overnight to 27 inches of Hg and made an appointment with the AC shop to get it recharged. I could not get an appointment for several weeks, so I continued to drive it with no AC, thinking it should be no problem since there is no pressure in the system.
I was on a road trip when all of a sudden, there was a huge stinky cloud of blue smoke billowing out from behind the truck. I pulled over and the AC clutch and pulley was smoking hot. I shut it down and cooled it off slowly with squirts from a water bottle.
So my clutch is shot but I'm not sure what caused it to fry. Is there a typical mechanical failure where the friction material can be chewed up by the pulley-hub? Or is it possible that somehow the controller commanded the clutch to engage without pressure in the system?
I think it would be prudent to replace the compressor, since there may be some bearing or housing damage from the clutch failure, so that is in the plan. I have read that when ever the system is open, the drier should be changed too. I want to do this right rather than do it again on another day.
One concern I have is that if when the clutch was failing and it managed to turn the compressor-- could there be pieces of compressor in the tube runs that I need to clean out? Other than a visual inspection of the open tube ends, is there another test or things to look for?
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My 08 escape (3.0) wouldn't go over 45-50mph Sunday on my way home. The next morning I made it about 2 blocks and the battery light came on and it died. I am replacing the battery tomorrow because it tested bad but believe there is also an exhaust problem. Last week it began making a noise I could hear inside the car only when accelerating. Almost sounded like a small,air plane. The car will start and run now but cuts out and sometimes will Rev up when I press accelerator and sometimes won't. The exhaust pipe gets hot really fast and it and the motor both vibrate we the car is started (more than normal) any clue on where to start??
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I may have an issue with my engine. My car is beginning to blow some blue smoke when I romp on it. It doesn't break up at all, there isn't any loss of power. It's just blowing some smoke and I noticed a light oil build up on my exhaust tips. I don't think I need to be hugely concerned yet, but I am bringing it to the dealership tomorrow just to make sure.
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I have a 07 6.0 powerstroke, I had 2 bad injectors so I replaced all of them with reman's. I had a problem with them coming loose. the first time this happened it hydrolocked the motor, number 8 cylinder. so I pulled all the injectors and replaced all the seals and washers and torqued them down a little more than spec like 27 lbs. it runs great and starts great even at 25 degrees but I noticed this morning that when starting it up after it sits (cold) it blows blueish smoke until late it warms up and I accelerate. is this normal? should I check fuel filters? oil in fuel?
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My santa fe 125k on it engine start to blow little blue smoke when start up ...
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So i have had a problem with my battery lately and i have done all the steps to try to fix it. First we took out the alternator and battery and had them tested at orielys and the alternator tested positive and the battery tested positive so we had them charge it then put them back in. They told us it is probably a parasitic drain which means something is draining the battery so we detached all my aftermarket stuff like my air compressor train horn and led lights on my grille guard and it ran fine for 2 days without dying. Well this morning i went to start it and it was dead again....
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Have been noticing my 2003 SantaFe "coughing" on startup after sitting typically overnight or longer. Started noticing this after I went to Royal purple synthetic on an oil change. Started useing Mobil One synthetic and I am hearing the same thing. For a millisecond after I start it up after it has been sitting overnight or longer a quick "cough" kind of a sound that quickly goes away. No other problems apparent.
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Vehicle: 2001 Escape 3.0L V6
I'm listing here the obvious that has been changed already:
1) Valve cover gaskets
2) Oil pan gasket
3) Timing chain cover gasket
4) Upper and lower manifold gaskets (not oil related but changed)
5) PCV valve
6) Washed engine twice to remove everything and make sure nothing else burning
Problem: I still have a small leak from the top that causes smoke near or around the #4 COP on passenger (left side of the motor). But we do see some oil coming from near the PCV valve. It makes no sense and after reading what caused smoke on that side of the vehicle I changed the Timing chain cover gasket (which were finished anyway) and while was at it the oil pan but to no avail. Smoke and leak still there.
Probably not: I know that it is not the head gasket because there is no sign at all; I've never lost a drop of coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust in back.
Suspicion: Could it be the oil separator where the PCV valve connects and makes it's way around to the other side? Is there something I am overlooking? There can't be many other places for an oil leak like that.
Coincidence ? : Even after changing all the COPS and spark plugs I found oil in the #4. However smoke was there before. I thought maybe a cylinder gasket I got second opinion from my mechanic says no not cylinder...
Engine runs well except for misfire in #4 but comes and goes. I think when oil builds up.
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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After my 2003 Camry XLE sits overnight in sub 36 degree weather, get this random grinding and popping noise. Eventually this noise dissipates, I believe as the parts around the wheel get warmer. I have had the car in the shop a couple times now, and the mechanics are never able to figure out the noise. They are convinced that it is suspension related, but I am fairly certain it isn't. I get the same noise on smooth roads and at very slow speeds.
It feels like it is bearing related, or perhaps brakes, but I am not a mechanic. I am guessing. I do know it is related to the spin of the wheel rather than the up and down motion of the suspension.
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I have a 06 Mercury Mariner and this past week fuse #26 keeps blowing turning the HVAC blower motor off. I replaced the blower motor since i had one already in the garage and same thing is happening. The AC will run for awhile and in about 10/15 mins the fuse will blow. Fuse #26 is the Climate control system mode switch, are these known to go bad? Is this the part I should replace or look for other problems IE compressor?
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After tooling around town and a complete warm up cycle for the engine I encountered a problem. The situation is this.... Had to go around a slow poke....waited until traffic had cleared and nailed it. My truck belched out a boat-load of blue smoke from the tail pipe. Could not duplicate this on the return trip to the stealer (Dealer). Needles to say, I am worried about the health of the engine....(no codes popped, or anything else as I had a code reader hooked up) My truck did the blue cloud again with a rev up in park after a cool down but wouldn't do it again, but there was a strong smell of unburned fuel at the tail pipe.
4.6L, 2WD, Sport Package....
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Alright so In January had head gaskets done on my truck and when I got it back it Dont have any low end power and I noticed it was using oil. If I let it idle 15 min or so and rev it up it blows out a bunch of blue smoke and smells like oil bad. Been trying to figure out whats going on. Ive only put about 800 miles on it since I got it back for the head gaskets And its burned at least 3 quarts of oil. Its going to the shop on Monday gonna start with compression check and go from there I'm Thinking Its valve seals or a bent valve. But machine shop surface and pressured checked the heads. Truck only has 146000 miles on it shouldn't be having these lined of problem. Its an 03 5.4.....
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