Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2003 4WD - Front Driver Side Axle Leak
Nov 28, 2012
I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
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I noticed pool of oil yesterday morning, felt engine oil has leaked. Did oil change as it was due, the mechanic said the leak doesn't seem big enough, still overnight there was again lot of oil leaked, I kept a pan below to capture it. Checked it at auto shop near me and they said it is transmission fluid leak and probably due to driver side axle seal leak. I am going to take it again tomorrow to fix. How much do you think it will cost to fix if this is right diagnosis? This is 2005 4 cyl Ford escape with 150k on it. As per them if it is axle leak it will probably more of labor (2 hrs) than seal price.
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I need to find a diagram of the door panel on the drivers front door. Need to see how to remove the switch bezel to check the power window switches.
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What is the location of ptu on drivers side or passenger side???
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I was just changing the oil on my wifes 2008 Escape and noticed a oil leak. At first I thought it was an oil pan gasket,But its higher than that. Then I thought maybe an axle boot but it's also higher than that. It's on the passenger side about the middle of the engine right under neath the biggest pulley.
Its a cylinder shape mold coming off the engine about an inch long with a bolt on the end of it. I'm not seeing oil any higher than that and seems to be coming from there from what I can see. Is this something common with the Escapes?The truck has 55,650 miles on it and this is the first issue so far.The wifes first escape we traded for this was an 01 with 200,000.
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I own a 2001 V6 Ford Escape XLT, although that's already likely far too much information for this weird issue I'm having. It's been going on for a while now, steadily getting worse.
The issue is that the driver's side window will easily roll down, but becomes unresponsive when I click the button to bring the window back up. At first, I could simply press the button a bunch of times and eventually find success. Now, if the window is rolled down, I have to get out of the car and move the door back and forth while furiously pressing the button. Eventually, I'll find a spot in the door's swing where the button will finally make a connection with *something* else inside the door and roll up the window.
What could the issue be? Seems like a clear electrical issue, and something that would occur in the joint of the door, since opening and closing the door is the only way to eventually establish an electrical connection.
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The driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
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Drivers side turn signal does not work, and blinks fast when turned on. The brake light on that side and hazards do not work. when I unlock the car with the remote, it lights up fine.
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Tonight when I was on my way in from taking the trash out, I happened to notice a puddle under my 04 Ford Escape. The car has been sitting in its parking spot for about a week (cold and mostly sunny weather, but some light rain, frost, and ice recently) so I figured it was just a bit of moisture from melting frost...worry wort that I am, though, I decided to investigate. It looked like it was in the area of my oil pan so I thought the size of the puddle warranted an investigation. I moved the car back a bit and tried to soak up whatever it was with a paper towel (soaked moisture up, but colorless).
I checked the oil levels (puddle was the size of a it small frisbee, so I have to imagine that if it were oil, I would notice a change in the levels) and saw no change since I last checked about a month ago. While I was trying to look like I know what I am doing, I noticed a new oil drop on the pavement - under the oil pan on the drivers side. I have replaced the pan gasket within the last 2 years and know that the car has a timing cover leak, but that has been fairly limited to the passenger's side.
The oil pan looked dirty, and showed SOME evidence of an small oil leak, but the other spot I noticed worried me a bit more: behind the oil pan (looks like it is almost center of the front axel) there is a fluid leak of some kind. Whatever the fluid is, it looks to be clear and has a slight hint of an odor (not sweet, not oily...sort of like stale water). When I turned the car on to back it up, I had the defrosters running. All in all, I would say they were on a total of 45 seconds, but the "water" is still dripping several hours later.
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Have had the '13 SE 2.0 for a week. Wife said there was a squeak ?? I drove it today. Seems to be from front passenger side..
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I've just replaced a front ABS tone ring on my 2003 Escape and I'm ready to replace the axle nut (I've got a new one, as per Ford's recommendation) and torque up. I've heard that you're supposed to torque the axle nut *before* you put the wheels back on the ground, but I have the factory service manual for the 2003 Escape and I can't find anything to back that up.
I've looked at every listed procedure I can think of that involves removing and replacing the axle nut, and none of them specify that you must torque the nut with the wheels in the air.
It would be easier for me to do it with the wheels on the ground, but would I be risking bearing damage if I did that?
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I'm trying to figure where the coolant leak is. Appears to originate on the driver's side front, right near the thermostat housing. Since the engine tilts back the entire drivers side is wet. The thermostat gasket appears to be OK, but it does have a lot of miles on it.
If it's not the thermostat then can coolant leak from the cross over tube. And is the cross over removable without taking off the intake. There appears to be a bolt coming up from underneath on the passenger side.
Also, does coolant flow through this plastic intake. If it does, then the leak could be some where else, if not, then it's probably the thermostat.
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I replaced my my front hub assemblies on my 2003 F250, 4x4, about two years ago and my driver side hub is leaking. I first noticed it the other day when I tried to shift into 4 wheel drive and my hubs would not lock in the ESOF system.
I used a vacuum pump and it leaked down pretty fast so I assume the knuckle/axle seal is the culprit.
I plan on ordering these three seals:
Amazon.com: f81z-1s175-hca
I am also noticing another # for the axle seal. It is 3C3Z-3254-CA. Which is correct for my 2003?
Are my questions would I actually need to replace all three? The dust seal is not leaking at the moment. Should I go ahead and replace it anyway?
What type of grease do I need to use the seals? I have some disc brake bearing lithium grease in the cabinet. Will this work or do I need to get a specific type
Lastly, I've seen a post where members have made their seal seating tool out of the galvanized pipe, cap, and a flange. The flange is said to be too large and it would have to be ground down for the right diameter.
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My mechanic told me that something was wrong with the driver's side front axle of my 1990 Mazda 323, which has been a dream car for 21 years. He got a new axle to put in but could not get the old one out. Now it is at another mechanic's, and he also can't remove the old axle. He says there is a pin on the end and it is stuck inside the transmission (a 5-speed manual transmission). He has broken the axle trying to remove it, and now it cannot be driven.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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I have a 2003 Explorer EB that on deceleration of all speeds, the drivers side rear axle is popping or clicking. Could this be a CV joint? It does not happen on acceleration.
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Wife is operating a 08 Escape with about 31K miles on her. She loves the vehicle but since we bought it with 24K miles on it it has had a rattle under it. I assumed that it was the heat shield and i would get around to securing it but haven't yet. Here's the question. I noticed recently that about mid way back under the pass side there is a black spot developing on the concrete where she parks every day. The vehicle does not sit and idle there. Its started and is moving in about 20 every time. I have not got under there yet but was looking for possible answers as to what and where to look? Flex pipe? Bad seal on exhaust? If this is the case should a 31K mile vehicle have this issue? The vehicle is louder than a 2.3L should be but from reading that seems normal. If it is the flex is this something that a novice wrench can do?
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape 3.0 V6 FWD, and the air conditioning has been blowing only to defrost for a few weeks now. After many searches online, most sources seem to agree it is a vacuum leak, as the selector switch is vacuum driven if you want anything except defrost. I popped the hood and within one minute I found one open vacuum line that looks like it has been worn in two.
The line in question goes from the vacuum canister towards the passenger side of the firewall, then goes to a T connector, then a line (the one that is broken) continues towards the heater core lines to where the break in the line is. I found a picture online of what it should look like, but I am having trouble accessing the line that goes through the firewall and behind the glove compartment. I am pretty sure this vacuum line continues through the firewall between the two heater lines, but after that I am stumped.
I popped the glove box down out of the way and I see two thin vacuum lines and a small metal "can" nearby. The black line goes from a fitting and into the A/C bundle, and the white line goes from the top of the metal canister and down into the same bundle. My main question is which line controls the AC selector, and how do I pass a replacement line through that part of the firewall to make a good connection, as it seems the break is at the firewall itself with no extra sticking out for me to connect to.
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I set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.
When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.
The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.
I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.
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Vehicle: 2001 Escape 3.0L V6
I'm listing here the obvious that has been changed already:
1) Valve cover gaskets
2) Oil pan gasket
3) Timing chain cover gasket
4) Upper and lower manifold gaskets (not oil related but changed)
5) PCV valve
6) Washed engine twice to remove everything and make sure nothing else burning
Problem: I still have a small leak from the top that causes smoke near or around the #4 COP on passenger (left side of the motor). But we do see some oil coming from near the PCV valve. It makes no sense and after reading what caused smoke on that side of the vehicle I changed the Timing chain cover gasket (which were finished anyway) and while was at it the oil pan but to no avail. Smoke and leak still there.
Probably not: I know that it is not the head gasket because there is no sign at all; I've never lost a drop of coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust in back.
Suspicion: Could it be the oil separator where the PCV valve connects and makes it's way around to the other side? Is there something I am overlooking? There can't be many other places for an oil leak like that.
Coincidence ? : Even after changing all the COPS and spark plugs I found oil in the #4. However smoke was there before. I thought maybe a cylinder gasket I got second opinion from my mechanic says no not cylinder...
Engine runs well except for misfire in #4 but comes and goes. I think when oil builds up.
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My 2010 2.5L FWD Escape has oil on the steering boot and has run down on crossmember (?) It is equipped with Electric Power Steering. This appears to be coming from the rack and pinion but does it have fluid in it? How can you add if it does. I have 96,000 miles on the vehicle and except for a drivers door actuator and scratched drivers glass, this is only problem.
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