Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 V6 - Slight Chugging Sensation After About An Hour Into Drive
Aug 30, 2014
I have an '02 Escape, XLT V6 with 4WD. Recently (within the last month) we had to have the engine replaced. They found that three of the coil packs were cracked on the old engine. They put the new engine in, hooked it all up, and it ran like a dream. The new engine came off another Escape and has about 122K miles (the old one had 175K). Today, I got gas and hit the highway to visit family Up North for the holiday weekend. I noticed about an hour into my drive that the car had a slight chugging feel, nothing extreme but it felt like small catch. I got to my mom's house, and then drove with my sister to the gas station and she noticed it too, it seems to have gotten more pronounced. I noticed again really bad on the way back from a friend's tonight. It seems to 'chug' when pushing on the gas or in Cruise, but not when its just coasting. What could it be?
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
View 3 Replies
This 2002 ford escape 3.0 xlt 4x4. on the dash you have your transmission #s laid out . the #1 seems to always be highlighted in a square. but as you move the shifter to whatever gear you want there is another square that highlights the selected gear. Also, before when you would have it in D it would flash back and forth from D to 2 just the lights not the transmission.
View 1 Replies
2005 Escape 3.0 with 160k miles. Slight miss under cruise, goes away under slight throttle. No service history known about vehicle. Best to replace spark plugs and coils with Motorcraft parts? And the intake gaskets too? Suggestions for correct plugs?
View 14 Replies
My girlfriend has an 05 ford escape with a 3.0 the car has been well maintained it has 184,000 miles on it. Over 3/4 of the miles were highway. I have noticed that it has had a slight engine ticking noise i have researched and some say the tensioner some say retorque the cams? I have not been around these cars much. I replaced the alternator the other day and serp belt all pullys felt fine. The engine used to tick all the time here lately sometimes when it gets started it does it and sometimes it doesn't.
Also what fluid is supposed to be ran in the tranny the owners manual just says mercon, so do i just run regular strait mercon fluid in it? or does it need like mercon V. The car runs fine i just want to fix the ticking noise if its something major. Just some thing I've hear about on a buddys newer f150 with a 5.4 the oil supply ports that lube the timing chain tensioner got plugged and it developed a ticking noise? I am a mechanic so i can check and do anything i just dont know where to start on this car?
View 1 Replies
I've had this problem for a while. The previous owner of my escape replaced two tires and said the ABS and four wheel drive lights started coming on. ABS solid, FWD light flashes eight times every two minutes USUALLY. Sometimes the ABS and FWD light are off if I am on a short drive. Sometimes in these instances I can feel the brake pedal pulse or I can tell the 4WD is trying to activate without a reason (jerking in the steering wheel).
Sometimes the ABS light stays off while the 4WD light flashes constantly. After doing some research on here I'd like to believe it's a tone ring since that seems to be a common problem and a relatively easy fix (and cheaper than new tires). Oh yeah... sometimes (very rarely) the lights stay off and everything works great. The guy I bought it from said that the lights started activating two weeks or so after he changed the two tires.
View 7 Replies
My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
View 7 Replies
I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
View 4 Replies
Fitted new snow tires with the intent of leaving them on year round. Now find that the Escape is pretty well un drivable due to shake at all speeds. Balance has been checked by two tire shops. I think that the problem is that the deep blocks of tread are "squirming"The tires are surprisingly quiet but unfortunately will have to go.
View 2 Replies
2002 3.0L escape 4WD, stalled twice on me when shifting into reverse after a complete stop. No CEL, truck started right up again....
View 4 Replies
So my civic has 167,000 miles on it. I have replaced the thermostat and radiator but the mechanics are stumped. The problem is when I am driving on the highway for about an hour or longer (I live in the mountains, so this is not easy driving) and when I come back into town and get stuck at a red light, the temperature in the car starts to slowly rise. I have never let it fully overheat.
When the temperature is high, I have turned on the heat and it has come out cold. I have opened the hood as the temp is high and there is nothing leaking that I can tell. It feels hot/smells hot but I can't figure it out. The reserve tank has fluid in it, but I cannot see inside the radiator to see if there is fluid in it. This problem has been happening for about 6-7 months, so I just try not to drive it outside of town anymore. When I am driving around town, it does not seem to have an issue.
View 9 Replies
I have a failure on the evap system of my 2002 Escape, and need the proper testing procedure for this particular purge valve. I was able to fix the purge valve on my 2013 Explorer, with no issue, but the Escape has a different type and I'm not sure I'm testing it properly. I want to verify the purge valve is working properly instead of just throwing parts into it. I know it is likely either the valve or the gas cap, but it could be something other than those two items, so I want to get the simple stuff checked out first.
View 3 Replies
I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
View 3 Replies
I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
View 14 Replies
Are there any tricks I need to be aware of, or any maintenance threads on changing the lower intake gaskets on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape? Still having high idle issues when hot, and have checked everything else. I changed the upper gaskets when I replaced the plugs and COPs some time back.
Anything I need to be aware of, or is this similar to changing the upper manifold gaskets?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
View 5 Replies
My wife has a 02 Ford Escape XLS with a I4/manual trans, she has been saying it has been making weird grinding noises for a while but has not been able to replicate it for me to hear. Today it locked in gear and stalled, she can depress the clutch and start it, but can't take off in whatever "gear it thinks it's in" and it'll stall. To quote her.
So odds are the clutch or trans is toast, I'm more of a full size truck guy when it comes to doing work, what to look at? She's getting it towed and I have enough tools to do the job just not a ton of time this second to do the research, When I know more I'll add it.
View 4 Replies
So my buddy has a 2001 escape. It has a shudder at 1k rpm in park and neutral. It's not nearly as noticeable in drive. I scanned it for codes and there isn't one. Ran a power balance on ids and it's straight. Doesn't miss during the shudder either. Has all new coils and plugs. I cleaned IAC. MAF. Ran sea foam through the engine. And there is Lucas oil conditioner in the oil and Lucan fuel injector cleaner in the gas. It runs amazing other than that shudder. What could it be ?
View 1 Replies
2002 Escape XLS 2.0L 4-cyl 5MT FWD. Slipping Clutch.
I've read here n there that the Escape clutch is a poor design & others have reported that a clutch repair doesn't solve their shuddering problem. After putting off the job for a while, I'd like to replace the clutch.
Here's a topic from here : Manual Transmission shudder / fill & drain access?
View 2 Replies
My daughter has a 2002 Escape 4WD with 3.0L engine.
Coming home from school a few weeks ago she experienced engine running rough on the highway when trying to accelerate. We ran the diagnostic on it and it revealed that #2 cyl coil was misfiring.
I've replaced all of the rear bank coils (in hopes that I wouldn't have to remove the intake manifold again anytime soon). I also replaced the connectors and weatherproofed them.
Replaced all the plugs while I had easy access too. This all went pretty smooth with exception of breaking 3 of the 5mm coil bolts off inside the valve cover. I've also replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
It runs much better now except now on the highway, at 1800 rpm/55 mph if I try a gradual acceleration I get engine sputtering and it won't accelerate. If I push hard on the pedal it will downshift and accelerate normally right past this trouble spot. Other than this it idles and runs great.
I've noticed that the 3/4 in. vac hose on back of manifold is getting pinched closed about 70%. this is the hose that leads down to the top of engine just below lower manifold. I suspect this is the problem but cannot determine the root cause. I assumed it was the intake manifold gaskets but those are now replaced.
View 1 Replies
