Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 - Trans Won't Shift Into Gear?
Dec 13, 2015
I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
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My wife has a 02 Ford Escape XLS with a I4/manual trans, she has been saying it has been making weird grinding noises for a while but has not been able to replicate it for me to hear. Today it locked in gear and stalled, she can depress the clutch and start it, but can't take off in whatever "gear it thinks it's in" and it'll stall. To quote her.
So odds are the clutch or trans is toast, I'm more of a full size truck guy when it comes to doing work, what to look at? She's getting it towed and I have enough tools to do the job just not a ton of time this second to do the research, When I know more I'll add it.
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2002 Escape XLS 2.0L 4-cyl 5MT FWD. Slipping Clutch.
I've read here n there that the Escape clutch is a poor design & others have reported that a clutch repair doesn't solve their shuddering problem. After putting off the job for a while, I'd like to replace the clutch.
Here's a topic from here : Manual Transmission shudder / fill & drain access?
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I am working to analyze my Granddaughters 2008 Escape FWD Auto 2.3 L issues with the Transmission. Vehicle has 142K miles with engine oil changes but no maintenance on the Transmission.
Engine was replaced about 9 months ago with a used 2.3 L with 52000 miles. Engine runs fine with no issues and NO Codes. BUT when driving the Escape I find it starts out in 1st gear and with a little feathering of the throttle will shift at 2600-3200 rpm directly to 3rd gear. (Based on known ratios and rpm vs MPH) Also no OD/ 4th gear. OTHER than the shifting issue it runs fine.Reverse works normally.
Summary: NO CODES from OBDII, NO OD lite ON or flashing, NO leaks, "wrench" light is ON solid after 1-2 miles driving, "wrench" light is OFF on restart but turns ON after 1-2 miles driving, Changed ATF - old fluid was slightly dark but looked and smelled OK - Drain plug magnet had slight coating of sludge - no dirt, metal or other solids. Transmission Shifting Lever properly selects Park - Reverse - Neutral - Drive with a quick/Normal change.
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We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
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I just did a Sable 3.0 engine swap on my 01 Escape auto 4WD with 112K miles. Prior engine spun several lower end bearings. New motor runs fine. Prior to swap, trans operated fine. Didn't have any of the apparently common 2-3 flare or OD shudder problems. Car was dealer maintained and fluid looked fine - didn't look or smell burned.
Now, after the engine swap, from a stop or at low RPM situations like around a slow corner, the trans seems starved. Have to rev the engine a bit to get the pressure up, car jerks into gear and then trans operates fine. Shifts through all gears fine and goes into and out of OD fine. This happens from a stop when trying to shift into either Fwd or Rev. Feels like the trans is low on fluid, but it's not.
I drained the trans prior to doing the swap and refilled with Mercon, not Mercon V.
No engine codes. Kept my OBDII reader on while driving to see if it threw any temp codes. Still no codes.
I'm sure that the trans was reinstalled correctly. I'm sure the TC didn't cram the pump.
If I recall, there are only four trans sensors and I'm sure I hooked them up correctly.
I'd like to like this car but it's getting pretty hard. Since I bought it a month ago, I've been under it more than I've been in it.
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Along with a high idle problem that's driving me a little bonkers on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape, I've noticed that the tranny constantly hunts up and down a little when I'm running about 55-60 mph. Today I got a code P1120. Makes me wonder about the TPS... I replaced it during routine maintenance about a year ago with a unit from carquest, so I don't have the original to replace it with for troubleshooting. Will a TPS also cause a high idle, or are those 2 issues typically not related?
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Doing trans fluid change on the 2009 -2012? Is it the same as myCD4E drain 4 refill? I know its a different fluid probably buy from Ford.
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I have been having an issue with my 4-5 gear shift under hard acceleration and know that a rebuild is due soon but I was wondering if any high performance kit available with all the clutches and friction discs needed to rebuild.
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2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
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I have a 2007 Mercury Mariner with a 3.0 Liter V6 engine AWD. The transmission is giving me a problem. No shift into 2nd and 4th. Solenoid or band broken I think. Is the bolt hole pattern to attach the tranny to the engine different between the 3.0 V6 and the 2.3 I4?
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I have had my truck in the local ford shop because the fluid was a little bit burnt smelling, I had a flush done to it and then afterwards I noticed first gear started hesistating and then would go to second, when it warm it doesn't have any issues, shifts normal, but when cold or starting off even with running in the morning before going to work its still does that, I would like to find out before it starts becoming a serious problem....
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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2002 3.0L escape 4WD, stalled twice on me when shifting into reverse after a complete stop. No CEL, truck started right up again....
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I have a 2002 3.0 Escape. All running great. I have a question about where engine load/vacuum is sensed for determining shift point? I replaced all of the dry rotted hoses in the vacuum recently when replacing intake upper & lower gaskets. since then, I've noticed the shift points aren't quite the same as before. The tubing I used was slightly smaller that the OEM, but otherwise, everything is plumbed up as before.
When accelerating, the engine does rev a bit more than before, before the tranny moves to the next gear. I can ease up on the throttle just slightly, and it'll shift up. If I'm not accelerating hard, it seems to shift fairly normal. Going up slight grades it doesn't want to shift as soon as it should, but on level ground it shifts fairly normal under light load. Going down grade it shifts quickly, as one would expect. This is why I felt it might be somehow related to engine vacuum.
Is there an sensor somewhere, a restrictor in the vacuum tubing, or a vacuum modulator I might look at? I've double checked the vacuum tubing and found no leaks.
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I have a failure on the evap system of my 2002 Escape, and need the proper testing procedure for this particular purge valve. I was able to fix the purge valve on my 2013 Explorer, with no issue, but the Escape has a different type and I'm not sure I'm testing it properly. I want to verify the purge valve is working properly instead of just throwing parts into it. I know it is likely either the valve or the gas cap, but it could be something other than those two items, so I want to get the simple stuff checked out first.
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I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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Are there any tricks I need to be aware of, or any maintenance threads on changing the lower intake gaskets on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape? Still having high idle issues when hot, and have checked everything else. I changed the upper gaskets when I replaced the plugs and COPs some time back.
Anything I need to be aware of, or is this similar to changing the upper manifold gaskets?
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I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
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So my buddy has a 2001 escape. It has a shudder at 1k rpm in park and neutral. It's not nearly as noticeable in drive. I scanned it for codes and there isn't one. Ran a power balance on ids and it's straight. Doesn't miss during the shudder either. Has all new coils and plugs. I cleaned IAC. MAF. Ran sea foam through the engine. And there is Lucas oil conditioner in the oil and Lucan fuel injector cleaner in the gas. It runs amazing other than that shudder. What could it be ?
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