Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 - Stumble At 1k RPM In Park And Neutral
Apr 30, 2016
So my buddy has a 2001 escape. It has a shudder at 1k rpm in park and neutral. It's not nearly as noticeable in drive. I scanned it for codes and there isn't one. Ran a power balance on ids and it's straight. Doesn't miss during the shudder either. Has all new coils and plugs. I cleaned IAC. MAF. Ran sea foam through the engine. And there is Lucas oil conditioner in the oil and Lucan fuel injector cleaner in the gas. It runs amazing other than that shudder. What could it be ?
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I am having this on and off problem of getting the shifter out of PARK sometimes its easy sometimes its frozen. I am going to take the plastic off to investigate the linkage more and I know there is a brake shift to unlock the transmission out of park. 2002 ford escape 3.0 ....
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What could cause this? I have 100k and I only notice this if in park or neutral at 1500rpms. It goes away before and after and it seems to drive very smoothly. I had a bad alternator and I just replaced it but the "new" one is making a high pitching ringing so I'm having the shop change that out for a new oem. Any chance it's the alternator or could this be something else. I have sea foamed the throttle body recently and cleaned the maf recently and changed the air filter. I didn't do plugs but they are do at 120k
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2005 Mazda Trib. will not let me shift out of park . It doesn't happen all the time button seems to be sticking . Is it the button or the electrical switch on the brake pedal ? This belongs to a friend of mine and this is the info I'm getting .
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My 2003 escape stalls from park to reverse and drive,not all the time but when warmed up. IAC motor replaced and still stalls.
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While traveling I made a fuel stop. Restarted engine fine, stepped on brake, but could not move the shifter out of Park. Towed to Ford dealer, after extensive trouble shooting replaced shifter cable and transmission position sensor. A week later same problem but glad I learned about the interlock override lever on the steering column so can continue to drive. It locks up several time a day. Here's what I know and observe.
. brake light switch appears to be normal
. engine starts normally
. brake lights operate normally
. fuse on interlock function is ok
. when the lockup happens the shift indicator is missing the box over the P
. this may not relate but backup/reverse lights operate very weird - in reverse they only light when the engine in rev'd and go out when the gas pedal is released
There appears to be a gremlin in this Escape that eludes Ford and me. I read some reference to a computer control involved in the interlock function. I'm at a loss.
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My 2009 Ford Escape shift lever is stuck, not allowing me to shift out of park without using the manual override. However, when I slam my foot to the brake (rather than simply stepping on the brake), the brake switch relay, etc. all engage and I am able to shift out of park. Is this a brake switch relay problem, or is it possible that it has to do with the age of my brakes, etc?
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Last night while driving home in the rain, I cleared the windows with the wipers, and lowered the rear passenger window so that my dog could have air. I then proceeded to drive. I then lowered and raised my drivers side window and the passenger window to clear them of rain drops so that I would have an unobstructed view. I turned off the wipers, as it was only misting and then closed the rear passenger window. About 3 minutes later, I wanted to wipe off the windshield again, however, the wipers would not come on. I then played with the window buttons trying to open them, but they would not open, and the interior lights would not come on. However, the doors would lock and unlock. I thought for a second, maybe the anti-theft system engaged somehow. By this time I was sitting at an intersection - at a red light, waiting to turn left. I shut the car off, to see if something in the vehicles' computer system needed to reset itself. I waited a couple of seconds, and then restarted the engine.
By this time, the light had turned green, however, I could not get the car to switch from park to drive. I tried numerous times, but to no avail, the vehicle was stuck in park. To make a long story short, a while later after the police came, one of the officers googled the problem for a 2002 Ford F-150 truck on his car computer. He found that the vechicle had to be turned off to where the dashboard lights were on, foot pressed on the brake, and only then could the gear be switched into neutral in order to be started. Only after going through this routine was I able to shift the vehicle into drive. This is the first time this problem has ever occured. The vehicle has138,500 miles.
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I have a 2015 Prius package two. The other day I was taking it in for its 10,000 mile maintenance, and I pulled out a fuse that I connected my DRL lights with the Main power (so the drl lights would be on with the head lights). The car was on and the check hybrid system light came on. The car would not move only stayed in park and neutral. I had Toyota care come pick it up and they said that if there's any issues that the warranty won't cover it. How I can get the warranty to cover any damages if there is any. The tow truck driver said he thought the car Might think it's being stolen because I did unplug the battery for about 15 minutes to try to reset the check hybrid system.
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2002 3.0L escape 4WD, stalled twice on me when shifting into reverse after a complete stop. No CEL, truck started right up again....
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I have a failure on the evap system of my 2002 Escape, and need the proper testing procedure for this particular purge valve. I was able to fix the purge valve on my 2013 Explorer, with no issue, but the Escape has a different type and I'm not sure I'm testing it properly. I want to verify the purge valve is working properly instead of just throwing parts into it. I know it is likely either the valve or the gas cap, but it could be something other than those two items, so I want to get the simple stuff checked out first.
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I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
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I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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Are there any tricks I need to be aware of, or any maintenance threads on changing the lower intake gaskets on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape? Still having high idle issues when hot, and have checked everything else. I changed the upper gaskets when I replaced the plugs and COPs some time back.
Anything I need to be aware of, or is this similar to changing the upper manifold gaskets?
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I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
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My wife has a 02 Ford Escape XLS with a I4/manual trans, she has been saying it has been making weird grinding noises for a while but has not been able to replicate it for me to hear. Today it locked in gear and stalled, she can depress the clutch and start it, but can't take off in whatever "gear it thinks it's in" and it'll stall. To quote her.
So odds are the clutch or trans is toast, I'm more of a full size truck guy when it comes to doing work, what to look at? She's getting it towed and I have enough tools to do the job just not a ton of time this second to do the research, When I know more I'll add it.
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2002 Escape XLS 2.0L 4-cyl 5MT FWD. Slipping Clutch.
I've read here n there that the Escape clutch is a poor design & others have reported that a clutch repair doesn't solve their shuddering problem. After putting off the job for a while, I'd like to replace the clutch.
Here's a topic from here : Manual Transmission shudder / fill & drain access?
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My daughter has a 2002 Escape 4WD with 3.0L engine.
Coming home from school a few weeks ago she experienced engine running rough on the highway when trying to accelerate. We ran the diagnostic on it and it revealed that #2 cyl coil was misfiring.
I've replaced all of the rear bank coils (in hopes that I wouldn't have to remove the intake manifold again anytime soon). I also replaced the connectors and weatherproofed them.
Replaced all the plugs while I had easy access too. This all went pretty smooth with exception of breaking 3 of the 5mm coil bolts off inside the valve cover. I've also replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
It runs much better now except now on the highway, at 1800 rpm/55 mph if I try a gradual acceleration I get engine sputtering and it won't accelerate. If I push hard on the pedal it will downshift and accelerate normally right past this trouble spot. Other than this it idles and runs great.
I've noticed that the 3/4 in. vac hose on back of manifold is getting pinched closed about 70%. this is the hose that leads down to the top of engine just below lower manifold. I suspect this is the problem but cannot determine the root cause. I assumed it was the intake manifold gaskets but those are now replaced.
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I was having problems with my 02 Escape of misfire on cylinders. After doing a lot of checking, changing spark plugs, changing coils, ect, I decided that it could be the computer. So, I ordered one and put it in. When I turned on the key, all the gauges pegged and then came back to zero, but it acted like someone cut the power line to the starter. No click, no nothing. I checked fuses and they are fine. Even changed them around to make sure. Is there something that I have to do when you change the computer to get it to start? Had no problems with the starter prior, so it has to be something associated with the computer and changing it.
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I set out to do a coolant flush but ran into an increasing number of problems. When I went to replace the thermostat I discovered one of the three bolts would not come out due to the inside thread on the thermostat housing being stripped. I purchased a brand new housing and O-ring.
When I reinstalled the thermostat (also Motorcraft brand) with the above O-ring and attached all the hoses I had a severe leak between the thermostat housing and the intake hose connecter. I diagnosed the problem as the O-ring slipping off of the lip or ledge inside the thermostat housing and not sealing all the way around.
The Motorcraft O-ring seemed like the diameter was too big for the interior lip of the thermostat housing because the ring would pop up on one side whenever I tried to fully seat it on the interior lip. I went to AutoZone and purchased an orange Duralast O-ring, and while it seemed to be a little smaller diameter than the Motorcraft it too slipped off when I tightened down the housing.
I have tried everything, and every time I tightened down the housing I did it very slowly and carefully doing an 1/4 turn at a time with the three bolts but still the O-ring would slip off.
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