Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 - Misfire - Getting Code P0305 And P0306?
Jan 3, 2016
I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
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I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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I'm getting a p0452 fault on my 2002 Escape 3.0 V6 2WD. From what I've read, that seems to indicate low FTP signal below .22v. As I understand it, the FTP sensor has 5 v applied, and the output to the ECU goes down as tank static pressure increases. Conversely, I think the voltage back to the ECU goes up as tank static pressure decreases (for the vacuum leak test measurement).
What the approximate voltage is at atmosphere (engine not running, vent valve open, etc)?
I'm guessing the "less than .22v minimum" signal back to the ECU might look more like either the signal wire shorted to the frame somewhere or the signal wire open (maybe corrosion in the connector)....
Also, where the FTP sensor is located on the Escape and how to access it?
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 6 cyl with 211,110 miles It started running rough without any previous warning signs. In idle its barely noticeable, once i put it in gear it gets rougher and when driving around 40 to 45 mph it roughly shakes and shimmies. Once I get past the 40 to 45 mph range it settles back down. Is there a specific issue that would cause that at that speed. When going up over a bridge the check engine light blinks.
I changed the spark plugs and new wires and it offered no success even though one of the plugs were black (to much gas). I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and got P0305 cylinder 5 misfire, I am thinking fuel injector to replace, what else should I be looking at?
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2002 Ford Escape... My OD light started to come on every once in a while, and would go off once I turned the car off... This being said, as far as I could tell, the tranny was running smooth. Then an engine light popped on and this code and explanation come up... P1744 "Torque Converter Clutch System Stuck in OFF position".
I recently came back from a bit of a trip... and after shutting the car off, it didn't want to restart. Since this time, the car has begun to start, but the engine light remains on with the P1744 coming up...
Research seems to indicate that the problem is with the Torque Converter Solenoid. You Tube videos show that there are two solenoids just under the transmission pan...
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I have been getting a CEL P0420 for low cat efficiency bank 1 on my 2002 Ford Escape V6. The truck runs fine otherwise. I have ran two loads of Cataclean and the light keeps coming back a few days after CEL reset so I am pretty sure one of cats is done. I am going to replace with an aftermarket cat. My question is, with this code, do I need to replace the front exhaust manifold cat or the rear manifold cat?
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So my 99 F-150, 4.2L started throwing a code a few weeks ago, P0306 #6 Cyl Misfire. This thing has got 238,000 and has been the most reliable commute vehicle I've owned.
Today I changed all the plugs and wires (they were due anyways) which didn't resolve the issue. After clearing the code, got about 3 miles out and it came back. Running SeaFoam through the system on this tank as well, but I'm leaning towards an EGR blockage like what is described here:
Sparky's Answers: 1999 Ford F150, P0306 Misfire Cylinder #6
I was about to buy a new coil pack but I'd rather not continue to throw parts at this, as I've read many others do with this same exact situation, only to end up with the same code. I've replaced the coil pack once already a few years ago when I lost a cylinder on the way to work.
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05 2 wheel drive f150xl 4.2 l 135,000 miles. Smoking white out of exhaust. More at start up but doesn't go away. Turns a little blue. When parked at idle if I bring up the RPM's quick I will get a little puff of black in the white smoke. I can't smell or taste(when I touch my fingers to mouth) any anti freeze in the exhaust smoke but I live in Myrtle Beach and I have little if any anti freeze in the coolant. I flushed the motor, changed oil and filter and added a can of seafoam. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it. I also replaced the air filter because I went down a dirt road and hit a deep water hole. Dirt and mud got into the air filter and by passed it also. This was the reason for the engine flush also. I can't recall any smoke before this. Maybe a puff on start up from moisture not sure. Im going to buy a coil pack and plugs and start from there. I have never had this many codes.
P0174 Bank system 2 to lean P0300 random multipl Lean mil. Missfire detected P0305 random multiple Missfire detected cylinder 5 misfire P0306 cylinder 6 Missfire P0316 Missfire detected on start up first 1000 revolution
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Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.
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Having 3 new codes coming up. P0306-misfire on cylinder 6, p0158, p2272. Use my truck as a daily driver for work. Driving along before 80km/h is not to bad but can still feel a little loss of power. If i step down on gas the truck has no power and sounds like maybe cat converter is plugged. If truck is pushed to limit she will make it to her 4000 rpm and will change her gears. So i'm just glad its not tranny.
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96 Chevy express 1500 V8-305. Have a P0305 code...Misfire on 5. Let me tell you everything I have done so nobody wastes their time.
I have, replaced the entire ignition system, "EVERYTHING" including a new distributor...Not the problem... I did a compression test...Not the problem...injector cleaning...not the problem.
When I moved the wire harness that goes into the "spyder" fuel injector system the engine smoothed out. I untaped the harness from around the plug and applied pressure to each wire the engine smoothed out. The back row 2nd pink wire seems to cause the most reaction.
My question is...Is it the wire harness or is it the injector system not reading plug? or could it be a combination of the 2? If I replace the wire harness might I still have to replace the injector system?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe with the 3.5. Today I started it and the check engine light came on. It was not on before this. (We had a lot of wind and rain from the storm but nothing major.) And seems to be running fine. I went to the auto parts store and they ran a diagnostic and the Code P0306 came up #6 cylinder misfire. They said probably Spark plug, wire or coil for #6, then went to look up code in computer and did not have my truck so they went with Kia or Domestic, which gave different possibilities for a code P0306.
They had me buy some fuel injector cleaner as injector was on the list. The light is still on so I guess the cleaner was not the magic bullet. I spoke to a lady at another auto parts store who is a wiz when it comes to cars and has been around them and fixing them a really long time. She says the Code P0306 is Spark Plug, wire, coil #6. She has a 4cyl Hyundai car not truck and she had the code for her #4 misfire in the past and she started her repair cheapest first, Plugs, wires her code was still there she then changed the coil and that did the trick for her.
I on the other hand can't do this stuff myself. Can't afford the dealer anymore or to have a shop do a tune up AND coil if I don't need all new plugs and wires just a coil as they will charge a lot to do a lot all. And it may not need it or even be any of those things. I also suspect the dealer and shops will want to still hook up their computers to do an costly diagnostic because the light is on, even though I know the parts store already came up with a code P0306 twice. Spoke to the dealer on the phone and he already basically said they would want to do that first for $100 plus the cost of repair.
I brought the truck new. It now has 91,500 miles on it and the dealer has already done two tuneups on it in that time, Plugs and wires. I hear it probably shouldn't have even needed these tuneups in this amount of millage? So the last one was probably about 2 years ago and a few thousand miles maybe a guess 10,000-20,000 miles ago. Do you think a plug and wire would be bad already in that few miles?
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I have a 99 town car with 78,000 miles. I filled the tank and have run about 1/4 tank when the engine started to misfire. Got the Service Engine Soon light so went to O'reily. The OBDII code is p0306 cyl 6 misfire. What would you check first?
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My mom's 2003 Alero has had a bad catalytic converter for the last few years.. at least that's what she was told when she took it to the shop. The engine light (P0420 threshold below efficiency) has been on over the last few years and I occasionally check it with a code reader to make sure no other codes have been added. Up until today - as far as I know - none have been. Now today when she was driving it the engine light started flashing and running rough and making a knocking sound.She brought it straight home and I hooked my scan tool up and it gave the same cat code as I just mentioned, plus a P0306 misfire code. So I pulled the plug wire on number six cylinder and hooked up a spark tester to it - and it showed a decent spark. And to verify the spark being normal, I tested at another plug wire and the spark looked about the same..so I don't think anything is wrong with number 6 plug wire or coil or anything like that but am not sure. Also, the spark plugs were replaced a couple of weeks ago because the ones in the car were worn down about .010''. I can't imagine this having anything to do with the misfire because I did them myself and made sure they were gaped properly and that all the wires were put back on the correct plug/cylinder and plus it ran fine after the plugs were installed - but thought I would mention it anyways. And I was very careful not to damage the platinum on the plug when gaping them.
Did a little bit of research and found this: A code P0306 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack) Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression Defective computer
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Ok, my 1996 Buick Regal is acting up. I got a CEL, which was a P0306 (Cylinder #6 misfire), took the car to my shop, and they diagnosed as a faulty Ignition Control Module. Fast Forward, a day later, the car now has a hard start problem and throwing the same code, plus a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor.
So my questions are:
1) Could a faulty ICM cause a single cylinder misfire, did they just replaced a random part? I would think a bad ICM would a multiple misfire considering on this car each coil controls 2 cylinders.
2) Are the two codes related? ie fix one, and the other would go away? or are they separate issues?
3) What could be wrong with my car?
This mechanic has been in my family for years, however, I'm not very pleased that a day later, my car seems to have more problems than before. Am I being too harsh?
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I have a 2009 Escape, 2.5l engine and manual 5 speed transmission, 205,000 miles. It has has an intermittent miss that has been getting gradually worse over the past 3 months or so. I've been seriously futzing with it for the past 2 months, so far no luck. Definitely worse when it's cold. Not noticeable at all in gears 1-3 (even when cold), noticeable in 4th, mostly between ~2000-2500 RPM, and pretty bad when cold in 5th in the same RPM range, still noticeable when warm. No service engine light until today (#1 misfire).
If I let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes or so, the miss is much less noticeable. Replaced the plugs, absolutely no difference. Bought one COP and cycled through all cylinders, no difference. Finally broke down and took it to the Ford dealership where I bought it new and had them do a power balance test, which isolated it to cylinder #1. Swapped the #1 and #2 injectors and took it back to Ford, still showing cylinder #1. Did a compression test, #1 and #2 both around 165lbs, #3 and #4 both around 185lbs.
I'm a electrical engineer, so I spent some quality time with an oscilloscope to compare the drive waveforms of the #1 and #2 cylinder COP and injector...both COP and injector drive waveforms look identical when comparing to #2 cyl. Tried heating the PCM, made no difference (engine was cold, PCM was hot).
So it finally DID throw a code today, cylinder 1 misfire. I'm thinking I can almost hear a miss at idle now. And listening to the valvetrain at idle, there is unmistakably more valve noise coming from the #1 intake area than the other cylinders, but not terrible.
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My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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