Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2002 - Grinding Sound When Traveling Straight Or Turning Left
Jul 17, 2016
2002 XLT 3.0L 4X4
Making a grinding sound when traveling straight or turning left. Any turn to the right (even the camber of the passing lane) and there is no grinding sound so I figured it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Replaced it yesterday.... symptoms are still there.
Tight left/right turns don't result in the popping/snapping of a bad CV joint so I don't think that's it.
I don't think it's transmission related since shifting is good and the grinding is not throttle related. Besides, turning shouldn't have an effect on the sound if it was something in the transmission, right?
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
2004 Escape 2wd 6 cylinder 170k miles. Intermittent clunk/rattle sound when hitting bumps while going straight and especially turning right. I felt a slight bumping in passenger side floor board. Inspected everything. All looks good and tight- no signs of loose hardware, worn ball joints or tie rods. Only thing I noticed was a slight rub mark (missing paint) on the lower control arm under the sway bar on drivers side. And noticed the rear bushings on the control arms are tearing.
Not collapsing but with the tire removed and suspension hanging at full droop you can see tears in that rear bushing on both sides. We painted the arm and sway bar in the rubbing location to see if it makes a mark there again after driving it a few days. Question is do you think that the rear control arm bushings could be allowing enough movement to contact the sway bar or make the noise? The bolts are tight. Has newer Moog struts and newer swaybar end bushings, possibly sway bar hold down bushings too- (they look pretty good).
View 1 Replies
Have an 03 Escape / 3.0 and the steering catches when turning left. Steering wheel jerks. Replaced the pump about 2 mo. ago and seemed to work, but now it is back. Is there something else I should look at?
View 3 Replies
I was having problems with my 02 Escape of misfire on cylinders. After doing a lot of checking, changing spark plugs, changing coils, ect, I decided that it could be the computer. So, I ordered one and put it in. When I turned on the key, all the gauges pegged and then came back to zero, but it acted like someone cut the power line to the starter. No click, no nothing. I checked fuses and they are fine. Even changed them around to make sure. Is there something that I have to do when you change the computer to get it to start? Had no problems with the starter prior, so it has to be something associated with the computer and changing it.
View 3 Replies
2003 Escape 2.0L ... I occasionally hear a single "pop" sound when I turn left. It seems to be coming from the area of the right rear wheel. Any obvious candidates for this issue?
View 2 Replies
Got the stabilizer bar recall done in February and have been on a couple of long trips since then. No real issues until about a week ago I noticed at low speed, when turning left, and usually if there was a small bump or incline........like turning into my driveway, there would be a popping/grinding sound. It could happen at speed, but never heard anything. I go last night to install some ECS cross drilled and slotted rotors and flush spacer kit and noticed this on the left front....
Well honestly I noticed first that I needed to wash my car, just got back from the beach and it has been raining here, but is this installed correctly. The bar is bent near the top, easier to see in person and I am fairly positive this is not correct. Called the dealership and they are going to check it out Monda. The picture below is of a left front on a MK7 and it appears to be the correct.
View 9 Replies
When I move the wheel to the left, I get this metal grinding sound (similar to rust on brake rotors/worn down brake pads). It happens when the foot is off the brake and ONLY when the wheel is turned to the left.
View 1 Replies
So yet I found out about another common issue but not that publicized. This is the grinding sound when turning at full lock (left or right) in slow speed. I've read several people in the forum who has encountered this. I read different remedies but the most common one is to have the CV boots lubricated.
I have a 2014 Wolfsburg with almost 5k miles. I am really now worrying about my water pump crapping out on me but I heard this grinding sound yesterday.
View 12 Replies
2000 Venture short wheelbase 122k miles. Original owner from brand new. Has had fuel pump replaced at 40K, intake manifold replaced and full trans (torque converter inclusive) flush, plugs and wires at 75K. (2005) All fluids checked regularly.
Recent problem. Noticed a "grinding/buzzing" sound when traveling above 25 mph. Sound is commensurate with veh speed (not engine speed). If I turn the wheel ever so slightly to the right, the sound "deepens"/gets louder), and I can feel the buzzing in the steering wheel. When I release from turning right, or turn left, the buzzing greatly decreases (though I still hear it), and I can no longer feel it in the steering wheel. I only feel it when I turn the wheel to the right, even just a few degrees.
My thoughts on the culprit (in no particular order): Wheel bearing, Transaxle/final drive (differential). ???????
Wheel bearings: No work done on front wheels/hubs. I did rotors and brake pads in April 2009 (115K). Visual inspection of all of the under car and front end. Nothing appeared out of the ordinary.
Transaxle/Diffierential: Who knows? I have had other vehicles with a normal differential/rear end, that had a bad bearing and I could usually tell which side, just by driving/turning Usually it was an outer bearing (wheel), not an axle bearing (diff).
Observations:
1..Periodically over the last 2-3 years or so, I have had to add about a 8-12 oz of coolant to the overflow every 8 mos or so. I don't know where it goes. I presume it is evaporating somewhere or VERY slowly leaking. Nothing external that can be visually noticed.
2.. Last week I checked the trans fluid. Was off the stick. Had to add 3 qts Dexron VI to bring it to full mark on stick. First two qts. barely registered on the stick. Prior to that last check was at 118k (5 k ago) and June of 2009. My written notes at the time mention "Normal. Didn't smell or look burnt, and no particulate matter in the fluid". Has been a week and the fluid level is still holding fine. Where did the 3 quarts go ???
3.. Opened radiator cap. No sludge or "strawberry milkshake" evidence of trans fluid. Looks fairly clear and orange. About what I would expect for a veh of this age and mileage. All lines to and from trans and radiator look ok. No evidence of leaking ANYWHERE.
4.. Runs an normal temps throughout the year
5.. Shifts fine with no slipping, clunking, grinding (during shifting).
6.. Overall vehicle runs, shifts, handles, and stops well.
7.. Every few weeks the ABS light comes on and then goes out after the next start.
If it's a wheel bearing (and I am leaning that way) How can I determine which side I need to replace? If I turn right, I "load" the left one. Noise gets louder. If I turn left, I "load" the right one. Given the above symptoms should I presume the left one?
View 9 Replies
2005 Ford Escape XLT (4WD) (non-Hybrid). Our Escape had uneven wear on the front tires. Because the mechanic we've used over the year we've lived here doesn't do alignments, my wife took it to a chain tire place on a Sunday afternoon because they were open. He said the ball joint was bad, so he wouldn't do an alignment and because they were super-busy and short-handed, he asked if we could bring it back during the week for an estimate.
A couple of weeks later I called my guy, who recommended a shop a few blocks over who does alignments, so we took it to him. We told him that the chain store had said about the ball joint. I'm pretty sure that before we took it to him, the car had started occasionally started jerking a bit in a curve, but it's been a couple of months and I only know for certain it was doing it after. (I'm not certain if it was doing it before because my wife was mostly driving that vehicle, then)
The first time it was in his shop, the mechanic said it wasn't the ball joint, but the tie-rod. After fixing that, he sold us a couple of tires and aligned the vehicle. On the way home is when I know I was aware of the car jerking a bit in curves. I'm pretty sure it was jerking in the direction of the curve, but again, it's been a couple of months.
Took it back to him the next day and though we suggested he test drive in one direction which had multiple curves, he said he retightened the tie-rod because one side wasn't right, ran it through alignment again and test drove it in another direction which only had one s-curve.
I want to say it was better for a while, but I can't really swear that to be the case. We've long had an ABS light which our previous mechanic in another part of the country said was the sensor. I had forgotten, but the first mechanic we used here had broken the axle and replaced it at no charge, when he was replacing the alternator.
The alignment mechanic said that we had a bad tone ring and the easiest thing to do would be to replace the axle. A week or so later, I called him and said we were ready to do the brakes, but I have one car and he does many and I wasn't really clear, instead of doing anything with the axle or the tone ring, his shop replaced the brakes.
Somewhere around this time, the vehicle started occasionally jerking to the left. Not in a curve, but in the straightways and the best we can tell, it's mostly when we're accelerating and is most noticeable between 30 & 45 MPH. This may not be entirely true, but it's true enough that we believe it. The "jerk" sort of feels like a car driving through fresh snow "falling" into a rut. It also sort of feels what I imagine a faulty ball joint might feel like.
While it was still more of a minor issue -- it happened more rarely than it's happening now -- we took it to what I'd consider our regular mechanic and got him to replace the axle. I didn't actually say anything to him about the jerking because it was still too occasional and I was hoping it was related to the tone ring. It's now gotten progressively worse and I'm at a loss for diagnosis. You'd think that if it was the ball joint, between the two alignments, the brake job, tire replacement and rotation and getting a new axle, one of the mechanics would have noticed it.
Compounding the issue is the fact that there's two (or three if you count the first guy, four if you count the chain tire place) garages involved. Also, I've done some of the engine work my regular mechanic recommended, so there could be a thing about me getting them to diagnose and then doing the work myself or the one mechanic replacing the axle like the alignment guy had suggested. Who knows. We haven't lived here long, so there's not really a lot of history. All I know is that they all get good Yelp reviews.
Also should probably be factored... the alignment mechanic said he felt vibration around 45 MPH and because didn't think we use the 4WD, he said he disconnected the drive shaft from the CV joint (or something like that) as a means of diagnosis. (If there had been a vibration, we hadn't paid attention to it and he did this at no charge, all on his own) Also, a few years ago, prior to our move, the transmission was rebuilt twice (once under the transmission shop's warranty) and I don't remember what the vehicle was doing, but on a third trip the transmission shop had to do something with the transfer case.
Mostly around 40 MPH -- though it may just be too subtle to notice at higher speeds and we rarely drive this vehicle on the highway, so we're mostly traveling short distances at 35 & 45 MPH -- the SUV lurches a bit toward the left and there's a little jerk in the steering wheel. It really feels like I described, like it's getting caught in a rut. Both the car and the steering wheel jerks to the left side. There hasn't been any noticeable uneven wear over the three months we've been trying to figure this out and the front tires look straight up and down. We also haven't noticed any noise. Not going down the road, not when we turn or when the steering wheel jerks.
View 14 Replies
A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
View 3 Replies
I applied brakes while car was moving slowly, less than 10 mph, and heard loud grinding sound coming from left front as car stopped. Shifted to reverse and car barely moved, less than 1 foot, which was accompanied by the loud grinding sound, then stopped. I could find nothing interfering with the wheels but did find pieces of brake pad on the ground along the path the left front wheel had followed. The left front wheel appeared as if the calipers were holding whatever remained of the brake pad and/or backing tight against the rotor. brake pad fell apart on 2002 at 43,561 miles...
View 19 Replies
2005 2.3Liter 4wd Mariner, 225k miles
I have been experiencing clunk noise on the front end when braking or accelerating and turning wheels.
I have replaced: front control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and stabilizer links and 2 days ago I replaced strut mounts and bearings.
The steering is smooth after the strut mounts replaced but I can still hear cluck noise mostly on left now when going over bumps, braking and accelerating.
Car also has new engine/trans mounts.
I am so lost right now because I cannot figure out what is it. The only thing I didn't replace are the struts but the I test them and they seem to function fine.
View 5 Replies
2002 3.0L escape 4WD, stalled twice on me when shifting into reverse after a complete stop. No CEL, truck started right up again....
View 4 Replies
My fiance drives a 2006 Escapse XLT v6 AWD. It's really a great car.
She noticed an issue when she filled the fuel tank the last time. It took about 8 miles of driving for the gauge to read full after being filled from empty. She also told me there was a "whirring" noise when shutting off the car and turning it back on. I checked it out and found the fuel gauge is making a noise. Whenever you shut it off or turn it on and the needle moves there is a distinct whirring noise that sounds like dirty plastic gears meshing, which is what I'm assuming is the issue.
I've done a search and came up with 0 results. Can the cluster be disassembled and possibly just clean the gears?
View 5 Replies
I have a failure on the evap system of my 2002 Escape, and need the proper testing procedure for this particular purge valve. I was able to fix the purge valve on my 2013 Explorer, with no issue, but the Escape has a different type and I'm not sure I'm testing it properly. I want to verify the purge valve is working properly instead of just throwing parts into it. I know it is likely either the valve or the gas cap, but it could be something other than those two items, so I want to get the simple stuff checked out first.
View 3 Replies
I am having some ( Bad Luck ) with my 02 escape I been getting random misfire codes started checking over o2 sensors first, replaced one on bank 1 downstream, I have screenshots to look over along with codes....
View 3 Replies
I own a 2002 Escape, 4WD 4cly manual trans. A couple of days ago, when I left work I stopped at a stop light. I shifted out of gear while I waited for the light to change like I always do. When I went to shift back into gear, I couldn't. I found that if I turned the key off, with the clutch disengaged, I could shift into gear without a problem, start the car up and drive away.
Since the first time this has happened, it has happened a few more times, always when stopped, once or twice while slowing down to stop (low RPMs). Besides all that, the car shifts fine while driving.
View 1 Replies
I have a 2002 Ford Escape, 6cyl FWD... 110,000 miles.
About a month ago I started seeing a misfire, which of course usually is a COP issue. I should buy stock in whoever makes those. Anyway, the code according to parts store monkey was cylinder 2 misfire, so I replaced the COP. That made no difference. I also replaced the upper intake gaskets and the PCV valve while I was in there.
So I started monitoring when it would happen, and of course got the actual code rather than taking the word of the monkey at the parts store. The code is P0352 Primary / Secondary circuit malfunction.
So after some research I find it could be the harness, it could be the PCM. The question I have is this misfire seems to only be when the motor is started after it's hot. What I mean is I can drive to work 10 miles, no problem. I can drive to Orlando 100 miles away - no problem as long as I don't stop on the way. The only time the misfire happens is when I start the motor when it's hot. So if I drive 10 miles to the store, then drive home before the motor cools completely I'll be coming home on 5 cylinders. If I wait 2 hours between stop and start I never have a misfire.
Does that jive with a true electrical problem? I'm no expert, but I don't understand why driving for 100 miles is fine, but 10 miles, stop start and 10 more is an electrical problem.
View 14 Replies
Are there any tricks I need to be aware of, or any maintenance threads on changing the lower intake gaskets on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape? Still having high idle issues when hot, and have checked everything else. I changed the upper gaskets when I replaced the plugs and COPs some time back.
Anything I need to be aware of, or is this similar to changing the upper manifold gaskets?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2002 Escape XLT V6 4X4. I searched the issue, but others' symptoms don't seem to be quite the same as what I'm seeing. Over the last few weeks, the battery light has randomly come on and off 3 separate times:
- 1st time, light came on at highway speed for about 30 sec and went out. Didn't come back on. Was during daytime, running DRL's, radio (no amp or subs or anything like that, and heater blower on low speed.
- 2nd time was two weeks later or so. Happened at night with just headlights on at around 55mph (RPMs about 2K or so). Again, stayed on for about 30 sec and went out.
- 3rd time was about a week/week and a half later, yesterday morning. Just running DRL's and radio. Light came on, flickered, came on, and then stayed on for a couple of minutes (all at highway speed). I noticed that if I disengaged the overdrive and got the RPMs up, the light would go out. I ran it out of overdrive for about 2 minutes like that, and the light stayed out. Speed limit dropped to 40mph, and the light came back on (lower RPMs at that speed, didn't run it in low gears). Light stayed on for 30 sec - 1 minute, and then went out on its own and has since stayed off.
I took it to Advance yesterday to have it tested, and the results were that it is charging at 13.9V under no load, and 13.87V under a load. The battery tested good, but the machine said it needed to be charged (it hasn't been acting low...car starts just fine).
I'm driving it to work today to see what it does next, and then getting it tested again on my way home. Has anyone here ever had similar symptoms as above? Does this sound like bad diodes in the alternator?
View 5 Replies
