Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 Barely Runs After Heavy Rain / Missing Really Bad
Dec 16, 2014
I have a 2001 Escape I bought new so many years ago. It only has 90k miles. The other day I drove it to work running fine. It rained REALLY hard that day and when I came out to go home it would barely start, missing really bad. Limped it home and into my garage where I examined it for water under the hood. Nothing. Started pulling things apart, nothing on the engine, around the coils, in the spark plug conduits, etc., dry as a bone. Let it sit for a couple of days and no change. Replaced the coils just for grins. Drained the fuel from the injector assy, looking for water. Nada. Verified spark, fuel, compression. Still, very difficult to start and when it does it's only running on cyls 1,2 & 3 because I can disconnect the coils on 4,5,6 and it makes no difference.
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I am finding that after a heavy rain that water is running out of the bottom of all four door drain holes when I open them.I have not noticed this on any other of my previous vehicles.Is it "a" good that they are draining well, or "b" bad that water is getting in in the first place?
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Last night and this morning we had flooding rains here and the excursion was sitting outside in it.
Later this afternoon, I went to pull it up a little to get a motorcycle ouut of the garage, and it started, but very roughly. Check engine light on, would idle at times, and sometimes would die on its own or when I put it in drive. The OD light on the gear shift was also flashing.
Didn't see any pools of water in the engine compartment, around the firewall or anything that would show water had gotten into some electrical areas of the truck.
My OBD reader isn't reading the diagnostics plug for some reason, im gonna go buy one here in a minute.
Plugs, boots, COPS?....why the hell the OD light flashing when in park? Start removing, inspecting, replacing or tow it to the dealer?
2002 Limited, V10, 190k miles, 1-owner, 6 pages of carfax dealer service reports.
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In this video I go over what is becoming more and more of an issue with this generation of Escapes due to the poor lift gate glass seal leaking rain water into the latch and electronics in the lift gate. I go over the cause, how to gain access, diagnosis, and of course repair.
Ford Escape Liftgate Won't Open- Repair - YouTube .....
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2010 Escape with 74,000 miles. Backstory: This is my daughters car who is away at college about 300 miles away. About a year ago the engine started hesitating when driving and would stall to idle at highway speeds. She took the car in to dealer and they replaced the Throttle body under the CSP that had been issued just prior to the dealer visit. All was fine for about 3 months, then she reports that the car is doing the same thing. Check engine light briefly illuminates and goes right back off when this occurs. She is able to slip the car into neutral and it seems to correct the malfunction. Unfortunately she has gotten so good at this that she keeps her hand on the gearshift when driving. It seems to happen at various speeds with no warning and no lasting effects.
She came to visit for Christmas and I was able to replicate the problem after about 30 minutes of city driving, but not quick enough to take a picture of the wrench that illuminated briefly. I slowed to the edge of the road, put it in park and turned off the key (engine ran the whole time at idle). Cranked back up and good to go! She had the oil changed about a thousand miles ago, I replaced the air filter last night and she had to return to her house for work in the next couple of days. She said it happened 5 times on the way home last night.
Car has always been serviced regularly and was a certified pre-owned when we bought it in March or so of 2012. I also bought the extended warranty although that may be expired by now.
Her local dealer said they can't fix it if the CEL is not on or the problem is not occurring at the exact time they have it in the shop. Now, I am not sure but was under the impression that the computer would record any codes and store them even if the light went off and the car returned to normal.
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The cooling fan runs on high as soon as the a/c is turned on, regardless of the engine temp. I have the sensor(6F9Z-19D594-AA) that mounts on top of the accumulator. If i replace the existing sensor, will the refrigerant leak out?
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I have noticed that my vehicles engine fan runs at max speed (and is very loud) all the time. Regardless of outside temperature, engine temperature, climate control settings, etc. It runs like that from the second I turn it on until I shut it off.
I have done some research online and found that people with a similar concern have been told that it could possibly be either the Coolant Temperature Sensor and/or Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor. I know that it could be a wide variety of issues, however it seemed as though these were common (and relatively easy) solutions. Does anything think either/both of these could be the problem? If so, need info about the proper part and instructions/video on how to install the new parts.
I would much rather spend ~$50 for two parts than screw around taking it in. If my attempts dont work, at least I know that I have 2 new parts in there. Or is this not really anything that I should worry about?
Additionally, my climate control settings dont all work. And I have found through research that I need to replace the blower resistor. Would this have any impact on the engine fan? I drive a 2012 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6
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I am having a lot of issues with my 2002 ford escape, a while if I drive the truck acts normal, but after driving it starts missing when beginning to accelerate at a dead stop check engine light starts flashing pulled codes coming up with #4 cylinder misfire and #5 cylinder misfire detected, also a catalyst system below threshold bank 2, I have had the vacuum lines repaired and still no changes and went through and changed my grade of fuel from regular unleaded fuel to premium fuel, actually went worse with using premium fuel. I was thinking of replacing all three coil on the front of the motor, putting new plugs in it and seeing what that does.
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Last May I had the distributor replaced in my 2001 Nissan Xterra. Since it was replaced my car has shut off while I am driving three different times, separated by weeks to months, and only in heavy rain storms. When the car does shutoff it takes up to 15 minutes until it will start up again. In each case, once the car restarted it did not shutoff again. I recently noticed a correlation to heavy rain because I did not have any problems all summer long ( I live in Oregon where it never rains in the summer) and then last week in a heavy rainstorm the car shutoff while I was waiting at a red light.
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Several weeks ago I made another thread because I was having crankshaft position sensor problems and essentially that was due to a short on the sensors wires which had become exposed. I replaced the sensor and it still did not work until later trying another brand which solved the problem.
I also changed all six spark plugs, wires, and plenum gasket with OEM parts. I was able to get to the back three plugs by following this tutorial with the guidance of a friend who is a mechanic. After getting this done, the car has run way better and smoother.
However, today it has been raining heavily and I needed to run an errand so I went to my car and turned the key but nothing happened. All the dash lights turned on and appeared normal. My radio works, lights work, etc; but I can not get the car to crank at all. I hear the fuel pump turn on and everything else sounds normal, but still no crank. There are no sounds from the starter at all, it is silent when I try to get the car to turn over.
I took a look at the car and the coil pack seems dry, the plug wires are secure, plus we had put di-electric grease on all those connections. The negative terminal on the battery has a solid connection. I even tried jumping the car to see if maybe it was due to the battery, but again nothing happened.
This has only happened once before when it was raining, before I had changed the plugs and wires, but I was able to get it to crank over after about 4 minutes of waiting and contemplating getting a tow. I took a look at all the fuses and they appear to be intact.
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2001 Ford Escape or later and having problems with missing, low power and shaking when going up an incline. I have had problems with my escape for the last two years missing and missing and more missing. Have replaced Coil packs and spark plugs several of them. Well back in June I let the Mechanic have it for almost 3 months. All 6 coil packs were changed, spark plugs included, all vacuum hoses, belts, water pump, front CAT already had new radiator replaced last year. Had two broken wires leading from the PCM to the fuel injectors 1 and 5, he re did the wiring harness there and checked the fuel injectors.
After all done that could be done, I took my car back and it was purring like a kitten, on a flat surface that is............after driving it for several days, headed to another city and had several small inclines to go up, not bad ones, and between 45 and 50 mph, my escape started to shake, miss, and make noise, not a loud noise, but enough to get my attention, and the check engine light started going on and off. Today I took it back to my mechanic, he went on a test drive with me, (me driving) and it duplicated the problem. Went back to his shop, put the code machine on it, and no codes, I asked him if he had serviced my transmission like I asked, and he checked with his other mechanics and they said no, that the transmission fluid seemed okay, figured it didn't need it. Well guess what it did. So if ya'll are till having problems after you have replaced the coil packs, check for electrical issue around fuel injectors, and your front CAT, mine was full of fuel, then make sure you service the transmission, and you'll have the best little ride ever!!!
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I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
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The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
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I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
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Is it possible to replace the main bearings in a 2001 Escape 3.0 with the engine in the vehicle?
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What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
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I have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 4WD, it has a rattle in the motor and no acceleration... Bought the escape with the rattle when you start it up and put into drive it wont accelerate. Transmission is good...
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I own a 2001 V6 Ford Escape XLT, although that's already likely far too much information for this weird issue I'm having. It's been going on for a while now, steadily getting worse.
The issue is that the driver's side window will easily roll down, but becomes unresponsive when I click the button to bring the window back up. At first, I could simply press the button a bunch of times and eventually find success. Now, if the window is rolled down, I have to get out of the car and move the door back and forth while furiously pressing the button. Eventually, I'll find a spot in the door's swing where the button will finally make a connection with *something* else inside the door and roll up the window.
What could the issue be? Seems like a clear electrical issue, and something that would occur in the joint of the door, since opening and closing the door is the only way to eventually establish an electrical connection.
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A couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
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I have a 2001 Escape 3.0 l 6 cyl. She stalls or almost stalls every time I fuel up. I found if I turn key but not to start, it only severely sputters and usually doesn't stall. Replaced EVAP canister (and all but dust separator inside), fuel pump, EGR valve, pcv tube, iac, upper gaskets, valve cover gaskets, seals, spark plugs, fuel/air filter, evap purge valve, fuel filler cap, ftp sensor, all ignition coils, checked for clogged fuel filler neck, fuel/vent hoses from/to evap canister...nothing worked.
There is a hose I cant get to that ends unattached just past fuel tank and near fuel vapor(?) "tee" under car. Seems to come from fuel tank. What is it? Just an overflow vapor hose? Should it be attached to something? Anyway, I suspect fuel vent hose or valve on top of fuel tank since my options are limited now. Have it running great (except this issue) with 260,000 miles so really don't want to spend mucho $$. No codes thrown.
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