Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 Engine Will Try To Start When Turn The Key - No Power
Dec 19, 2014
My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape, V6, Automatic, 2WDR, 132,000 miles that is having starting problems. When you turn the key the engine will try to start. You have to push on the gas pedal to keep it running, it will not idle until it gets warmed up. If you try to drive it while cold, it has no power. Reading previous posts I have already replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets, air filter, EGR, TPS, and fuel filter. Check for crack hoses / vacuum leaks. It is still not starting properly. No engine codes. New problem is oil light is flashing but the engine has oil. All of the gauges, lights, functioning normally. What do I try next?
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About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
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I have a 2004 Escape, 4x4, V6 with 116k on it. Recently it won't start until it's sat for a few hours. I'll drive it for a couple of days without a problem and then it will refuse to start. The Battery is strong, the starter is trying to turn it over but it won't fire up. I've seen several other posts with Escapes having this same issue but none have given a resolution. I'm figuring it may be the fuel filter, the fuel pump, or the computer control.
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My dad has an 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 with 100,000 miles. He was having trouble with hesitation and decided to change the fuel pump. All went well and the Escape ran fine for a couple of weeks. The other day, he went to start it and nothing happened. One click and the gauges ran up and stuck. Battery was tested at Auto Zone and checked ok.
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What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?
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2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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I have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
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I recently had my PCM flashed due to the deceleration safety recall. My engine now revs to 2200 rpm when I start it even if the engine is hot. It goes down to 750 rpm after about 30 seconds. My engine before the recall, reved from 1200 to 1400 rpm when starting. My dealer and ford tell me 2200 rpm is normal but I think it is too high.
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Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
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Just fixed the bad wheel bearing and a bad ball join on the passenger side. Now the only noise left is the clicks sound when I make sharp turn. Regular turns are normal. CV boots are good. What is wrong?
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Just started getting a creaking noise when I turn the steering wheel. It sounds like it's coming from underneath the vehicle in the area behind the left front wheel. It sounds like rubber against steel and drones as long as I turn the wheel. It also sounds when the suspension is activated. ie when I go over a bump. It's pretty loud. 2005 Limited ....
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2005 xlt 4x4. I was cleaning the threads on the rear constant velocity joint before taking the nut off. Turning the hub was almost impossible without using a steel bar. Is it supposed to be this difficult to roll the rear axles? Yes the selector is in neutral....
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I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
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My wife's having some car trouble. When I turn the steering wheel back and forth there's a cracking sound and I can feel it into the wheel. And now the steering's gotten really stiff.
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