Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 V6 Driver Side Window Goes Down But Not Up
Oct 2, 2015
I own a 2001 V6 Ford Escape XLT, although that's already likely far too much information for this weird issue I'm having. It's been going on for a while now, steadily getting worse.
The issue is that the driver's side window will easily roll down, but becomes unresponsive when I click the button to bring the window back up. At first, I could simply press the button a bunch of times and eventually find success. Now, if the window is rolled down, I have to get out of the car and move the door back and forth while furiously pressing the button. Eventually, I'll find a spot in the door's swing where the button will finally make a connection with *something* else inside the door and roll up the window.
What could the issue be? Seems like a clear electrical issue, and something that would occur in the joint of the door, since opening and closing the door is the only way to eventually establish an electrical connection.
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What is the location of ptu on drivers side or passenger side???
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I have a 2003 Escape Limited 4WD with approx 163K on the clock. It developed a tranny leak from the front driver's side axle. The seal is new and in good shape as I just replaced the axle and seal a few weeks ago. (I checked the shaft size and surface finish of the axle and it is in spec.)
I just removed the axle tonight and discovered that the problem seems to be the bushing just inboard of the seal in the tranny. The axle has movement up and down when inserted. (Not good!) This is allowing the fluid to leak from the seal.
Here are my questions. Is this a simple DIY fix using a slide hammer type of puller (or similar), or is it time to take it to a tranny shop. I can not seem to find a replacement part listed anywhere.
Also, with this much mileage, should I have the tranny reworked as a precaution if this repair requires dis-assembly or should I just address the leak and think about dumping it? I would prefer to keep it as my kids are now driving age and this is primarily their vehicle. (It has been a great little truck!)
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The driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
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I need to find a diagram of the door panel on the drivers front door. Need to see how to remove the switch bezel to check the power window switches.
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Drivers side turn signal does not work, and blinks fast when turned on. The brake light on that side and hazards do not work. when I unlock the car with the remote, it lights up fine.
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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I have an 08 escape. The drivers side rear window hinge has rotted out and the glass is dropping down. I need to replace this hinge asap. Looking for the right place to get the correct replacement hinge?
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My drivers window will not work at all but when I push the button I get a clicking in the fuse box. The other 3 windows partially work but will only go up or down in small increments. I have tried holding the button and slamming the door and this allows the other 3 windows to work. I thought it was the switch so I replaced it and that was not the problem. Fuse and relay seem to be fine. If it was just the driver window I would think it was the lift motor but with the other 3 windows on the fritz I have no clue.
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I recently bought a 2005 Elantra. At about 45 mph I start noticing air noise from the Driver side window. It peaks at about 70 mph. Not super loud but sounds almost like the window is very slightly cracked open. There is no air intrusion or water during rains.
I had the dealer check it and they test drove and said that it was normal and probably caused by the mirrors.
I have had mirrors like this before on other cars and never had air noise.
My question to you all is; Is this normal or should I pursue it further.
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Just got a 08 hybrid with torn driver seat. I have to change the seat. Will any driver seat from a 08 escape fit it?
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Having problem with the front electric window sliding out of it's track? My friend's 2001 Accent has been doing this with the driver's window when going up. It gets between about 1/4 to 1/3 closed and suddenly the glass jumps slightly left out of the track on the right-hand side of the door frame.
The drivers door is on the right, it's the tallest part of the door frame it's jumping out from. If the glass is pushed right by hand it pops back into the track and the window can be closed normally.
I've had the door card off and can't see anything broken with the window regulator. With the window down it's possible to rock the glass left and right so something is obviously loose or not holding as it should be, but I can't find any loose or broken clips where the glass is attached to the white plastic thing which holds it onto the central regulator rail, it all looks intact.
I was expecting to find something broken or slack which could be causing this but I really can't.
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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Just had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
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The window is running very slow and almost doesn't make it to close. Is there any way I can extend the life of this window?
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I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
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I have a 2004 Hyundia Santa Fe. The passenger front window will not roll down from driver side switch but will from passenger switch but then will not go up on passenger side switch. I found a broken wire on driver side and repaired it. I put a test light on the wires on the passenger side and used the driver switch and the test light lights when using the up button and down button! I have already put a new master switch in and tested all switches they all work!
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Have had the '13 SE 2.0 for a week. Wife said there was a squeak ?? I drove it today. Seems to be from front passenger side..
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Owner of a 2005 Escape and trying to figure out which relay on the interior fuse panel is the Accessory Delay relay. I think this might be causing a battery drain when everything is shut down. A diagram of the relay side of the panel.
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The cruise control has not worked on my 2001 escape since i bought it a few weeks back. i checked the usual culprits and everything is good. i plugged my scanner in and got a control module code.
c1945- park switch indicates park with vehicle moving.
I did do some live data testing and it does infact show park when in gear. the display on the dash shows the proper position.
I am almost certain this is the issue with my cruise. Where this sensor is? Doing a parts lookup isn't showing much.
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I've got an issue on my Escape, and I'm at a dead end. '01 XLT V6 150K miles.
About a week ago, driving to work, it started stuttering or misfiring while accelerating up inclines. Cruising and idle were smooth with no issues. I found that if I let off the gas as it was stuttering, it would stop, and then I'd give it gas again, and it would be fine. It was pretty intermittent.
Opened the hood and the large vacuum hose that goes from the top of the intake down to the PCV, has an L boot that connects it to the intake. That boot was collapsed down on itself while the motor was running. It went back to normal when I shut it down. I felt the boot and it was very thin and worn out, so I replace the whole two piece hose, along with the PCV valve. The old PCV came out and was rattling, so I believe it was ok, but I installed a new one anyway.
Drove it after that and it still had the stutter. It was now also doing it just barely at idle. I'd hear the motor miss, and it would really start when I would give it gas. I thought it was still a vacuum issue, and that there were probably other bad hoses. I found two. There's a small hard plastic line that comes off the air intake hose from a T, and those lines go to the camshaft covers. The hard lines go to rubber boots on the cover, and the one in the back was in two pieces. Replaced it. No change.
The other line is a small rubber line that comes off a round component, (I still haven't found out exactly what this part is called), that is bolted to the drivers side shock mount, and has a couple soft lines coming off of it. One of the lines goes over the top of the motor and ties into a T right where that large PCV hose goes into the intake. The part is circled in red, and the arrows point to the hose in the attached pic.
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