Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - Loud High Pitch Whistle / Whirling Sound When Accelerating
Apr 16, 2011
My girlfriend has a 2001 Ford Escape 3L, 6cyl. When accelerating there is a loud high pitch whistle/whirling sound. The sound varies with the amount of throttle you give it. More throttle = louder whine. Doesn't seem to do it when idling or coasting. What that could be? I'm about to remove the belt and take a look at the drive belt tensioner and other pulleys.
Just checked pulleys and tensioner and the tensioner seems fine, a/c pulley spins smooth and free no play, alternator spins smooth no play. The belt needs to be replaced. I wouldn't think this would cause such a load whistle under acceleration. I would expect it to do it all the time if it was the belt. I'm looking at the water pump pulley and belt too and they seem ok as well.
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My 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator.
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So we bought a new to us 04 Escape for the kid, he loves it! My question is, what's going on when I accelerate somewhat aggressively, the tach and speedo peg high and battery light comes on. It does not affect performance and gauges return to normal within a couple seconds.
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I am trying to get some advice on a diagnosis for a transmission problem i'm experiencing with my vehicle? It's a manual transmission and the sound i am hearing is when i shift gears is a loud whirling grinding sound. It's really loud in 2nd 3rd and 5th and doesn't stop.
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I have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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Today after school I hopped into my car and turned it on, it made a weird clanking kind of sound, but then sounded normal. I turned it off and it did the same thing again. I put the car into drive and it was so slow accelerating. I had my foot to the floor and it was barely catching speed while my rpm was somewhere in the 5000's. I got home and I don't know what to do. ALSO, when my Escape is at a stoplight, it turns off and shows the engine light. What's going on. I had to put my car into park, re-ignite the car and go through, again, acceleration tremendously slow. It is a Ford Escape 2001 XLT with a new engine with 80k miles on it.
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My wifes 2006 mountaineer V8 overheats. She says itll only do it sometimes after the truck has been warmed up. She will come top a stop and the temp will spike and she will get a warning light then it will go back to normal and be fine. When the temp spikes she hears a loud whooshing or whirling sound coming from the motor which I supposed is the fan? Could it be a bad thermostat or waterpump?
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How is the turbo in this new design cooled? Sometimes when I restart a hot engine, there is a high pitched whirling sound before I take off. Is this the turbo in action? Are there active shutters in this car? Twin Power Turbo 2011 BMW 535i....
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For a week now, my car whistle pretty loudly (I can hear it windows closed) when accelerating. After reading about 2.0t problems, I thought it was either a bad DV or PCV. I tried to diagnose if my problem was related to a bad pcv. So I disconnect the tube going from the intake to the pcv and plug the hole on the intake. Then I went for a ride and it whistle like before...so does this test confirm that my pcv isn't my problem?
As of now, I never saw traces of oil around the oil filler cap. When the engine is running, as soon as I press on the accelerator(even lightly), the whistle begin. As soon as I remove my foot, it whistle for a second then it stop. At a stop, if I press on the accelerator, the whistle will begin at only 5500 rpm and up.
No CEL so far related to lost of boost(I had a cel last week and they change fuel sensors and regulator). Also, the car pull pretty constantly but seem less powerful than before.
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My daughter has a 2002 Escape 4WD with 3.0L engine.
Coming home from school a few weeks ago she experienced engine running rough on the highway when trying to accelerate. We ran the diagnostic on it and it revealed that #2 cyl coil was misfiring.
I've replaced all of the rear bank coils (in hopes that I wouldn't have to remove the intake manifold again anytime soon). I also replaced the connectors and weatherproofed them.
Replaced all the plugs while I had easy access too. This all went pretty smooth with exception of breaking 3 of the 5mm coil bolts off inside the valve cover. I've also replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
It runs much better now except now on the highway, at 1800 rpm/55 mph if I try a gradual acceleration I get engine sputtering and it won't accelerate. If I push hard on the pedal it will downshift and accelerate normally right past this trouble spot. Other than this it idles and runs great.
I've noticed that the 3/4 in. vac hose on back of manifold is getting pinched closed about 70%. this is the hose that leads down to the top of engine just below lower manifold. I suspect this is the problem but cannot determine the root cause. I assumed it was the intake manifold gaskets but those are now replaced.
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I have a 2002 3.0 Escape. All running great. I have a question about where engine load/vacuum is sensed for determining shift point? I replaced all of the dry rotted hoses in the vacuum recently when replacing intake upper & lower gaskets. since then, I've noticed the shift points aren't quite the same as before. The tubing I used was slightly smaller that the OEM, but otherwise, everything is plumbed up as before.
When accelerating, the engine does rev a bit more than before, before the tranny moves to the next gear. I can ease up on the throttle just slightly, and it'll shift up. If I'm not accelerating hard, it seems to shift fairly normal. Going up slight grades it doesn't want to shift as soon as it should, but on level ground it shifts fairly normal under light load. Going down grade it shifts quickly, as one would expect. This is why I felt it might be somehow related to engine vacuum.
Is there an sensor somewhere, a restrictor in the vacuum tubing, or a vacuum modulator I might look at? I've double checked the vacuum tubing and found no leaks.
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Recently upgraded from an 05 Prius to a 13 Persona Prius. Loving it! The 13 was used and it had about 17k miles. What I have noticed, and still learning all the new stuff on this gen 3, but while testing out power mode driving in town, occasionally I will get a high pitch whistle while accelerating after its reached maybe 5mph.
The high pitch sound lasts only a few seconds and if I take my foot off accelerator it immediately stops. Sometimes it does it again when I tap the accelerator again but stops after just a couple of seconds and speeds are up past maybe 15mph.
Weird? Never heard anything like on my 05 ever.
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Yesterday my truck started making a loud high pitch squeal at idle. Messing with it this morning I found when I turn the a/c on it quits. Then it will do it for a second at startup and quit. If the a/c system is turned off it comes back. I thought exhaust leak until I found the a/c link.
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I have a hyundia elantra gt 03 auto at 111k. When I am at a certain speed I hear a faint squealing sound on the passenger side. It only does it only when I am on the gas between 35-45 mph. it's very faint but you can hear it if the window is down or the music is off. Could it be a belt?
I had my timing belt replaced at 95k so I don't think it would be that. I also had my serpentine belt replaced about 3 times already but every few months it starts squealing again
For example: When I pull out of my driveway in the morning and turn my steering wheel i hear a LOUD squealing and it stops after a few seconds. it only happens in the mornings when the car has been sitting all night.
Also when I run over a puddle and turn the wheel it squeals very loud for a few seconds. It sounds like that when i accelerate but its not as loud and it is constant endless i let off the gas. It does not happen at any other MPH only between 35-45 ....
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My Civic started to make high pitch noise when turning right or left, and also when accelerating. It makes more noise when I keep the wheels turning but ceases the noise when I let the handle go and go straight. When accelerating, it ceases the noise as it reaches 30 mph or so. It has got 93000 miles on it. It started the noise about 10 months ago and I feel like it increased the noise over the time. I don't drive everyday and I try to drive my wife's Prius when I drive since it has better gas milage. But this noise is quite annoying and wonder what it is.
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2005 2.3Liter 4wd Mariner, 225k miles
I have been experiencing clunk noise on the front end when braking or accelerating and turning wheels.
I have replaced: front control arms, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings and stabilizer links and 2 days ago I replaced strut mounts and bearings.
The steering is smooth after the strut mounts replaced but I can still hear cluck noise mostly on left now when going over bumps, braking and accelerating.
Car also has new engine/trans mounts.
I am so lost right now because I cannot figure out what is it. The only thing I didn't replace are the struts but the I test them and they seem to function fine.
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2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
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I went to go start my LS460... put the heat on, its fine.. when I turn the heat up on high I get this annoying high pitched sound. It has to do with the heat system because when I turn it off it goes away... I'm scared to keep the car running...
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We are looking at buying the new style Escape, either new or a few years old, but I'm worried about the life of an Eco Boost motor (a 4cyl. turbo scare me).
We drive around 25-30k miles a year, and would like keep it past the 200+k mile mark. I'm concerned about a turbo charge motor holding up that long and what type of issues would i have to look forward too?
We have a 2008 Mariner AWD with the V6 it has 200+k miles on it and it's been an awesome little SUV. i want the same quality in my next vehicle too.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2012 Toyota Camry SE. It is 3 months old and has 2,300 miles.
My husband and I notice a high pitch humming noise that happens mainly on the freeway, when you get over 45 mph. We tried ruling out different things like, bluetooth, radio, air conditioner, wind noise etc. We realized that the noise happens with you push on the accelerator pedal. If you hold the pedal to maintain speed, it does not happen. Only when you push the accelerator pedal. The noise was more noticeable when I drove it up in the mountains and had to push on the accelerator pedal off and on to maneuver turns and up hills.
I figure that we can bring it up to our dealer in October at our 5,000 mile service.
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