Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 - Engine Light Blinking And Misfires
Oct 14, 2014
I have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
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I'm having an issue with my ford again. Escape, V6, 123k miles. Recent work done: Replaced all spark plugs, coils, and intake manifold gaskets. Replaced all four O2 sensors. Oil change switching from the 5w-20 to 5w-30 due to it getting cold, (probably a month ago?).
Now for my current problem. Two days ago on a 20* morning, after it sat outside all night, I drove about 3 miles and then noticed the oil pressure light was blinking intermittently. When I came to a complete stop, it stayed lit. I pulled into a parking lot and starting shutting stuff down. I noticed when I turned the heater blower off, the light went out. Turning it on to High, I noticed the RPMS on the tach dropped to around the 500 mark, and the oil pressure light came back on. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes. Oil is showing good on the dipstick. I then drove it the last two days without the light coming on.
Now this morning, driving it again in 20* weather, after it sat outside, the light came on again, in almost the exact same place away from home. Both times the motor had reached operating temp, with the temp gauge being in the middle between "C" and "H". This time, even with turning the blower off, it came on every time it was at idle. I let it sit another 45 minutes, but this time when I drove it, the light was more intermittent and then was constant.
Again, the oil level is good on the dipstick, and the motor seems to be running smooth. I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings?
I have it written down at home, but I can't remember when I did the actual oil change, but its probably been a little over a month. I went from 5w-20 Pennzoil, to 5w-30; wix filter. I'm planning on doing another oil change tomorrow when I get home and go back to the original 5w-20. Also, I'm ordering a new oil pressure sensor, and I'll try that also. I've also looked into an oil pressure tester....
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We bought a new 2002 Escape 4WD and it has been great. Just clicked 130k. However, yesterday my wife said the car clunked when putting in reverse, and then the OD light started blinking. Shortly after that the Escape would not drive in gear, just a spinning noise. After the car was shut off for a few, it would drive again, but not very far. Fluid is good, and it will only drive for a while. I noticed a broken vacuum line coming from the trans, but could't tell where it went.
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Girlfriends 04 escape airbag light is blinking code 37. Read something about it being on passenger side what do I look for? I just got done putting in 2 coils, 2 cats, egr, o2 sensor, intake gaskets upper and lower, PCV, injector orings all due to misfire sure there not connected just added info. Other problems include heated seat switch lights for a second then shuts off, and no cruise control. Need to get light off for inspection by end of month....
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I was driving today and felt my ABS kick in with a pulsing pedal, although I was on dry ground. From that point on, my ABS light stayed on and my 4X4 light will blink every minute or so 8 consecutive times. The ABS light has gone off a couple times but only for a second and the ABS light comes back on again. I did get the truck on a scanner and got the codes C1234, U2023, U0415. Tried to clear the codes, but the ABS light prevails.
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I have an 2001 Ford Escape V6 3.0, about 130,000 miles. When the engine gets under high load and low RPM, before downshifting, it will shudder (misfire?). Local shop couldn't reproduce it, but they thought it might have to do with slightly cracked vaccume hose, which they gouged me to replace. No improvement. Next they wanted $700 to replace Valve Cover Gaskets. I decided to become a mechanic and learn how to do that one myself. Sure enough, there was a little oil dripping onto one plug. I replaced the gaskets and all 6 spark plugs successfully. Still didn't fix the problem though.
Symptoms will occur reliably when driving at 45-50 MPH with the transmission in overdrive (1500 RPM), and I begin a slight incline. The vehicle will kind of chug forward (feels like sporatic misfires) in overdrive, getting down to 1200 RPM before deciding to downshift. Generally, I can just give a little more gas to force downshift and avoid the nasty-feeling misfires. Some days, however, it is much worse, and will misfire at idle, and make me feel like I have to treat the gas as an on/off switch to keep the engine from dying. (It has never actually died.)
During a really bad day, I got a flashing check engine light. I did not check codes in time - they've all cleared.
I now have an ODB2 reader logging real-time data. All I can do is prove the conditions that cause the symptom: high engine load at low RPM is the recipe. Nothing seems to show a cause... I may just not know what I'm looking at :-/ . I haven't monitored long enough to record a 'bad' day.
I've read about ignition coil issues on this engine, and weather might explain why this is worse some times than others. However, I wouldn't expect that to be load dependant.
Most of the time it feels like the transmission just isn't shifting when it's supposed to, but on the bad days it seems more than transmission related. When stopped at a light in Drive, this can still occur.
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I have a 2001 escape. The red brake warning light in the dash is on. I have changed the low brake fluid sensor and disconnected the parking brake switch . It is not on when first started but comes on shortly after starting to drive (within 100 feet). Do these things have a proportioning valve and a sensor in it?
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What to look for. 2001 escape 3.0 starts and runs but it has a miss and no codes came up yet . the engine will rev up but it really takes time to idle down . don't matter if its cold or hot it just don't want to drop to idle as fast as it should.
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Well, not an escape, it is a mazda tribute. but it is the same thing as an escape. My sister just called. as she is driving down the road, if she lets off the throttle the engine will randomly die. it did it 2 times sunday, once yesterday, and once today, as she was talking to me. It will not die at traffic lights, just as you let off the throttle sometimes. today it did it at 45 mph. When it dies she just pops it in neutral, restarts it, puts it back in drive, and it is fine. No check engine light after restarting. What I should look at when she brings it over this weekend?
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My daughter has a 2001 Ford Escape, V6, Automatic, 2WDR, 132,000 miles that is having starting problems. When you turn the key the engine will try to start. You have to push on the gas pedal to keep it running, it will not idle until it gets warmed up. If you try to drive it while cold, it has no power. Reading previous posts I have already replaced the spark plugs, intake gaskets, air filter, EGR, TPS, and fuel filter. Check for crack hoses / vacuum leaks. It is still not starting properly. No engine codes. New problem is oil light is flashing but the engine has oil. All of the gauges, lights, functioning normally. What do I try next?
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2001 escape 3.0 engine is giving me a headache. It starts and will idle no problem but as soon as I step on the gas the engine sputters and coughs but it does race up. I put in new intake seals, new sparks plugs and a tps and cleaned the maf sensor. It shows no codes so what am I missing? Can it be a fuel system problem ?? what should I be looking for??
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Intermittently blinking check engine light in a 2003(?) Ford Escape. I received a call from my fiance, who's about 45 minutes into a two hour drive. On the interstate, her check engine light started blinking, so she pulls off the interstate to a gas station (the light was blinking for maybe five minutes before she could stop, according to her). After she was off the interstate, but before she had turned the engine off, the blinking stopped.
She called me, and I looked up and directed her to an AutoZone about a half mile from where she was. Told her to drive there, and have them to try to read any codes from the engine. She drives over, engine light stays off the entire time. They hook up the reader, and there aren't any codes. My question is, if the check engine light stops blinking, and there aren't any codes for the reader, is the car safe to drive, or will she destroy the cat if she keeps going? Also, it's raining, if that matters for any reason.
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My front interior light/map lights combination does not come on when the doors open. The rear seat and cargo area lights work when the doors open. Do the front interior lights are not designed to work in conjunction with the other lights when the door is opened?
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I picked up a 2001 Escape 2.0 manual with 160K. She runs great but I realized that the airbag light was burned out so I hooked up my scanner and pulled 2 codes C1414 and B1869. I changed the bulb and cleared the B1869 but the C1414 remains. the airbag light also flashes and gives me a 29 code. I am not finding much on the subject. The airbags appear to be there and it does not appear that it has been wrecked. I am guessing that it is the airbag control module. Where the module is located on this vehicle.
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I'm needing cold engine misfire. 2001 escape 3.0 engine 190300 miles on it. I changed the plugs, cleaned the fuel injectors, new air filter, new fuel filter, cleaned the pcv valve and new ideal control valve. When the engine is cold it starts right up but wont idle right and misfires sputters some to but run the rpm's up and it smooths out. drop to idle and it misses. Now when the engine gets to operating temp it seems to run fine. What am I overlooking to find the problem?
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Engine light flashing constantly with a vibration. It don't give any codes with the reader.
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So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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Check engine light came on and stopped by the local autoparts store to get the error code.
Code: P2270
Bank1 Sensor2 fault
Where is this O2 sensor? I've replaced O2's on other cars I've had and just want to make sure I replace the right one.
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A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
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I recently paid for a tune up on my 2003 Escape at a garage recommended to me by a friend. A couple weeks after the tune up my check engine light came on, I took it back to the same garage and the mechanic told me that one of the spark plugs was bad & he replaced it. Yesterday on my way to work the check engine light began blinking and the engine was jerking a little. I took the car to a very reputable mechanic and he just called to tell me that my car still has the original spark plugs in it and is desperate need of a tune up! I just paid $250 for a tune up a couple months ago! Did I get scammed? How should I confront the original mechanic?
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I have a 2001 Escape, V6 engine and I guess it really does not like it when it's cold outside. Usually the car runs just perfect but when the winter arrives and temps drop into the 20s the truck does not want to run idle right when I first start it. I have tried by stating it without touching the gas pedal. And also by pushing it all the way down and then releasing it. I don't know which method is the right one, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It takes some time and eventually after about 5 miles of driving it will act normal again. What could I do to fix that?
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