Ford Escape / Hybrid :: 2001 3.0L Running Rough And Died / Coil 3 Bad And EGR Valve Broken
Feb 8, 2013
My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. I really need this car to be back on the road again.
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I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
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About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
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So my wife's 2005 escape currently will not start. It was running rough so we brought it in to the shop to have the codes read. There was a bad MAF sensor code so we brought it home and were gonna replace the part the next day. The next day rolls around and it refuses to start. Swapped out the spark plugs which was much needed, replaced the valve cover gasket, which had also gone bad, and put in a new MAF sensor. It still refuses to start. It will turn over, but never starts. Also, the sound as it turns over doesn't sound right. It's hard to explain what sounds off about it, it almost has a "soft" sound to it. I can try to explain better if needed.
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Alright I thought changing a fuel filter was fool proof but I changed the fuel filter in my 2001 escape v6. awd and now for some reason it wont start right up like it used too before the filter change. It cranks for a few seconds then fires up and runs perfectly fine it sits for a few hours same issue where as before the filter change it fired up fine every time, what did I do wrong. 2001 ford escape...
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I had squirrels eat wires to the front 3 Ignition coil connector on my a 2005 ford escape XLT,my question is the new connectors have a white and black wire and the old ones had a red and a colored wire, but comparing both old and new connectors I notice the new connector has the black wire where the old connector has a red, so do I use the black wire to replace the old Red? , it's rather confusing to me when you plug in the new connector you can see the black wire is where the red wire was on the old one, or does it matter which wire goes where?
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well Im working on mother in laws 2002 escape...replacing wheel bearing and ball joints...I went with replacing control arm with ball joint already pressed in , I did try to press out old ball joint first but it wasn't budging...so I went on to the control and the back bolt came out fine...except threads at top of bolt look worn bad...anyways moved on to front and it was tight and moving along good...sprayed down with pb blast moved it back in sprayed again and waited a bit....as I went to bring it back out it snapped....I got the broken bolt out...it broke right at where the threads start...anyways Im having problem with gettting the control arm out while the rest of that bolt is still in there.
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My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
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My flex pipe recently broke, and as a temporary fix I pieced it together using a universal flex pipe and some exhaust tape and clamps. When shopping around, I came across this:
Walker Exhaust Pipe 50465 - Read Reviews on Walker #50465
Is this an OEM part for a 2008 ford escape 3.0? It looks somewhat correct, although I do not remember seeing the other two fittings in that picture on it. (It looks like the end with the flex pipe is the end that connects to the catalytic converter, and the other two connect to the front and back headers on the engine, but I don't recall seeing a fitting like whats on the end of that flex pipe on my car (It could be that it was cut off, too).
If this is the OEM one, then perhaps the original exhaust shop cut off the fitting between the cat and where the flexpipe attaches. Is there a way that I can get parts to re-make this section of exhaust so that I can use this piece? The flex pipe they originally put in was too big and it came loose again forcing me to have to rig it again since I can't weld, and needed to get it fixed quickly.
I really do not want to replace the entire exhaust system if I don't need to, and hoping I don't have to.
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I was leaving work in my 05 Escape. Started up fine, made it to the other end of the parking lot and it died. Restarted it and made it about 10 feet and it died again. Now when I try to start it, it just make a single click. Tried getting a jump from a friend and nothing but the same click when trying to start it. Lights are bright (haven't checked batt voltage yet, but will tomorrow).
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The 3 pin connector that connects to the alternator, I broke the clip. Do the local auto stores sell that connector in a pigtail form so I can just cut the broken one off and solder the new one in? I'm sure someone has broken that clip before.
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Replacing part 9C915 ?
"CODE P0443 canister purge fault" diagnosed....
Found: EVAP PURGE FLOW VALVE STICKING
Recommending: "Diag, Replace sensor then retest" ....
They want to install a new 9C915 which they called in hand writing a Canister purge sensor but I've seen it called a canister purge valve on another thread by FIREME who puts 9C915 as "toward the driver's headlight assembly, near the radiator. You'll need an 8mm socket to remove it"...
3.0L DURATEC FFV V6 ENGINE
From the "newly washed ashore" who's now double posting after being flogged for trying to keep this info in a single thread rather than spreading it all over the place...
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Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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Lights come on when the ignition is on, regardless of the position of the headlight switch. They shut off about 1 minute after the engine is shut off. The warning chime dings the entire time until the lights shut off.
I want the light to work with the switch and not come on all the time.
It is not just the daytime running lamps. High beams also work with the headlight switch in the off position, ignition on.
Ignition off, the headlights switch functions as it should.
I bought the Escape about 1 month ago. Dealer purchase so I don't know how to get a hold of the previous owner.
It only has 51,000 miles, very clean and all service records.
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I am trying to run a power wire through the firewall for an amp. I can't find a place to run it ....
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Along with a high idle problem that's driving me a little bonkers on my 2002 3.0 V6 Escape, I've noticed that the tranny constantly hunts up and down a little when I'm running about 55-60 mph. Today I got a code P1120. Makes me wonder about the TPS... I replaced it during routine maintenance about a year ago with a unit from carquest, so I don't have the original to replace it with for troubleshooting. Will a TPS also cause a high idle, or are those 2 issues typically not related?
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I have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
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My wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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2000 4.2....Last year I had to replace the coil pack when it started running rough and had a code for a misfire on cylinder 3. It is doing the exact same thing now, same code, same cylinder. Is there something wrong that is causing this?
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My escape has over 200k miles. My battery light dimly flickers constantly when running. there is also a misfire that seems to correspond with the flicker. the faster i rev the engine, the faster the battery light blinks.
My battery constantly shows 14.1 volts. the battery is new the alternator has been replaced twice in the past 2 years.... I noticed when i use my rear washer fluid, it spills into the car on the passenger side kick panel inside the vehicle.
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