Ford - Escape :: Gas Pedal Does Not Respond When Fuel Level Is Low
Aug 22, 2014
I have a 2010 Ford Escape Limited. This has only happened twice, but when the fuel level is low (fuel level light on and indicating 50 miles or less til empty), the gas pedal does not respond as well. One time I pressed the pedal, the car shudders and tries to go, another time my wife was at a stop light, then tried to press the gas pedal and the car didn't go anywhere. She had to turn off the car, turn it back on, then it worked. Doesn't seem to happen when the car is full of fuel, but like I said, it's only happened twice.
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Had 3 separate episodes dead pedal on my 04 bone stock 6.0. About a week ago I pulled out on the road and the truck went to idle and would not respond no matter how much throttle I gave. After about 10 seconds it woke up and took off. Had this happen 2 more times this afternoon.
No codes or dash lights.... What this might be? I have a 500 mile road trip this weekend and am worried about being stranded on the side of the road.
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Have a 2012 Escape and the first level on my fan stopped working. All other speeds are good to go. Should I replace the blower resistor? If so, can you provide details on replacing?
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I have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
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Friday night my car is fine. Sunday, after some wintry weather, I start the car and it shakes and stalls out. I start it again and notice the check engine light and the ESC light is on and the car doesn't respond to the gas pedal. No response to hitting the ESC light. Runs rough like it was 25 years old. I limp around the block and decide not to drive it. I hope it's a really simple inexpensive computer chip replacement....
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Yesterday went to fill up ($4.05 a gallon geezz!) and noticed that after getting back into the cab, the fuel gauge still showed almost empty. So after yelling a few expletives, I looked again and noticed the gauge starting to make it's way up the dial. It took almost 30 min. before it showed almost full. I'm not sure what the problem is, as the gauge seems to still function. I don't drive the truck much as I use it as a tow vehicle. However, I do try and take it for a spin about 3-4 times a month just to exercise it. I was wondering if the fuel has started to gel and that is the reason for the slow fuel gauge response. Should I add a fuel conditioner/cleaner now that I have a full tank?
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How much gas do you put in your tank when your gas gauge's yellow light comes on (Low fuel indicator) in the Prius v (Yes, I am asking specifically concerning the Prius v)?
Would 9.25 US Gal or 35 L sound right to you?
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2003 escape brake pedal squeals. Brakes have all been redone; however, pedal squeals when released. Wondering if vacuum leak or master cylinder.
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Having ABS issue with my 2004 Ford Escape XLT.
A bit of background information: every now and then (usually when decelerating from around 35-40mph), I will get a pulsating/knocking feeling from my brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the ABS, as I was told about a year ago that the ABS tone ring was broken. The more the problem manifested itself, the more I got to study it a bit. The pulsating/knocking in the pedal is usually accompanied by a very dry rubbing sound, and both the sound and the pulsating seem to be in direct relation to the motion of the wheels. I took it to the local garage this weekend and they recommended changing out the rear brakes - this made sense to me, as they haven't been changed out for as long as I have had the car.
Got the car back about an hour ago - on my way home, the pulsating came back when I was coasting into a stop light. The pulsating seems to have no affect whatsoever on the stopping distance of the car - a few times when it has happened, I have mashed the pedal, and the car comes to a quick stop just as you would want it to. After coming out of a complete stop, the brakes will work completely fine for a while - there seems to be no real rhyme or reason to what makes it happen.
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I have a Ford Escape 2013. When accelerating to around 60 km/h (40 m/h), it bumps after pedal release (It accelerates right after pedal release, while normally it should decelerates and stays put). This problem only happens at around 60 km/h (40 m/h) and no happen at other speed. But at lower speed transmission is sometimes jerky when accelerating or decelerating. I took car to Ford dealer, and they reloaded (reset) the programming module. It worked better in 1st week, but got worse after that. I notice that transmission jerky problem is worse in hot weather (over 20 degree with sunshine), but is better in cool and cloudy weather and not sure in cold weather.
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0l V-6. In June while driving to a job interview, my brakes unexpectedly failed. With absolutely no warning, the pedal went straight to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder...problem solved. 5 months later, driving to the gym, after stopping successfully several times with no mushiness in the pedal, at an intersection, the pedal goes straight to the floor...no stopping power.
I can't remember if the brake light came on last time. This time it did. Both times the fluid in the reservoir was full and looked to be relatively clean. Both times there were no apparent leaks in any of the fuel lines, abs module, at the cylinder, etc. I'm no slouch when it comes to car repair. The master cylinder replacement was done correctly, the lines were bled properly.
I have my own theories but I don't like any of them as my car rolls properly at idle, my brakes have not, nor do they currently make any noise or grinding sounds, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor.
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When started very high idle after hitting gas pedal sometimes it will lower idle sometimes not,,then holding pressure on gas pedal it has very bad surging ... Any guesses what might be and possible cost fix?? I am no mechanic,will have to take it somewhere...90,000 miles on it..
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape, and today I noticed that while backing out of my driveway (downhill) as I pressed the brake pedal it made this grinding noise, but when I got out of the car I looked through the tires and the rotors and pads were fine. I did not get a chance to check the inner side of the rotor or pad yet. What else could this noise be if it's not the brakes? It only makes this noise when I press the brake pedal which is why I thought it was the brakes.
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I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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80km on my accent, the brake pedal was getting softer and brake fluid was a bit low as normal due to brake pads were worn up over time. Brake pads were never changed. I thought changing the pads would change the softness of the brake pedal. I changed the brake pads, left and right, the brake fluid in the reservoir went up as normal but I drove around but the softness of the brake pedal did not change. I still had a little less than half size on the old pads. I need to press the pedal a bit much to feel the brakes. I am wondering maybe the brake pedal was always like that when I bought the car.
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2005 V-10... I've found some info on the "fuel level data error" but thought there must be more on this. In the last month or so I get the error on the message center and the fuel gauge goes to E. Happened a couple times here and there and then the CEL has come on. Have nto been able to get the CEL to go out because it happens too often now.
Have tried a couple bottles of Techron because that is suppose to fix it but no luck after about 150 miles. Can't find any loose wires/connectors. Am ready to give up and drop the tank. Is the sensor separate or part of the pump assy? Also don't see alot on dropping the tank on SDs. Any tips?
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We just bought and '05 F350 Turbo Diesel, about two days after getting it the check engine light came on. We had the dealer check it since the mechanic wasn't in and it came up as "Fuel Level Sensor" . My husband can't remember the exact code. We have been told it's no big deal but we want it fixed and the engine light to go off. The dealer is giving us the runaround, or at least I think so.
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My '03 V10 F250 gas with 135k miles on it went from showing weird fuel levels last week, showing low when I just put $40 in it to now being absolutely below empty, pegged as far south as it can get. I have a CEL light on too but my OBD test shows, "N/A 01-01". So all I can think is that there may be an open/short circuit that the OBD cannot diag.
I replaced my fuel pump about 2 years ago with a replacement AutoZone unit and all had been fine since then. I just do not remember if the fuel level sensor was part of the pump itself or a separate item. If it's a integral part of the pump I should be able to go back to AutoZone and get a warranted replacement.
Is there anything I can test a forehand before either pulling the tank or doing a dump-truck again?
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The backlight for my fuel level and oil pressure dash gauges are out. Would that require a simple bulb replacement or if there is something more difficult to replace, i.e. entire panel? The red needles illuminate, it's just the gauges themselves that are dark. The truck is my 05 Super Duty in the siggy.
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my 2010 Escape 89K miles. It will all of a sudden (at various speeds) stop getting fuel. I have to pull over...once i get close to a complete stop it lurches a bit, I put it in park and kill the engine - wait a minute and it starts back up. Initially thought i had water in tank (capless tank) 1st time it happened immediately after a carwash. So I added an additive to clean the fuel tank. Did it again after about 5 days. I cannot find a pattern (speed, fuel tank level) etc to this.
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I recently bought a used 2015 F250. When the fuel level reached 1/4 tank it became hard to start. Sometimes up to 6 seconds of cranking to get it to start. I filled it up with fresh diesel and it fired up as soon as I turned the key. A week later the problem returned, this time I was above 1/2 tank. I run the recommended additives, I changed both fuel filters, but it didn't work. I have only had the truck 3 weeks, and it still has a warranty. There are no fault codes, and the truck run great once started. What could be wrong.
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