Ford - Escape :: 2013 - Metallic / Hollow POP Noise Upon A Cold Start
Apr 25, 2013
My 2013 Ford Escape SEL makes a metallic, hollow POP noise upon a cold start. It sounds like it comes from underneath the driver's side - a little towards the back end. The noise is very brief - half a second and then it's gone. It will do this relatively consistently both when it's cold and when it's hot outside, but usually only after the vehicle has been turned off for at least 3 hours or so.
My dealership can't get it to make the noise and they've had it for almost a week now. Most days the car will make this noise with me in the morning, for my lunch break and again when I leave work. My luck they have it 5 days and the noise up and leaves.
In the meantime, I'm driving a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 'loaner' and the loaner car made the exact same noise!
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Had my JoeZ exhaust installed at my first oil change at the dealership about a month ago.
Anyway, late last week I noticed on cold start in the morning I'm getting a metallic vibration noise. This is on gentle acceleration out of my subdivision. It disappears within a minute or less and doesn't re-occur until the next morning. Best way I can describe the sound is a cell phone set to vibrate sitting on an aluminum cookie sheet.
Any hints on what I can check that might be the culprit? I already checked to see if the muffler tips are hitting the exhaust diffusers but they're clearing and I can reach up around the canisters and fit my hand up around them so they're not touching that silver heat shield material.
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We just bought a 2013 ford escape and every morning when we turn on the ignition we hear a quick pop noise under the drivers side near the back (I think). Sometimes it happens if the car is sitting in a parking lot for a long time and then you start it. The same quick brief pop noise. Sounds like a popcorn pop. It happens when the car is cold. I cannot figure out if its something because the vehicle is running fine and its hard to prove to dealership. They said nothing to worry about because they could not hear it.
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My 2013 Prius v made a really loud clicking noise this morning when starting the car from a cold start. It was less than 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The car has about 14K miles in it. Is this normal?
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When starting the car and ONLY when it's a cold start, like sitting overnight, it makes this weird "groaning" or "whining" noise. I took a video of it because if I drive it to the dealer, then start the car there, it's not going to do it as it only happens after a long period of being off. Listen really closely after the car starts and right before the radio comes on, you will hear a faint groaning noise. It's louder in person, but this is the best I could do.
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In the past month or so, I have had 2 instances of my 04 Escape being stubborn on start up. Both times, the engine will crank when I turn the key, but won't start up. After a 5 or so seconds of unsuccessfully trying, I turn the key to the off position, wait a second or so, then try it again - without fail, the car starts right up (well, almost - usually takes a turn or so longer than usual, but nothing too concerning) and runs normally. I am hoping that this is simply cold weather-related.
Each time it has happened, we have been experiencing lower temperatures after a day or two of 30+ degree days. I have a job that allows me to carpool most days, so the car usually only gets driven once or twice a week (a little over 20 miles each day I drive it) - with the cold weather, and the fact that I just replaced the battery last month, I have been trying my best to start the car and let it warm up every few days to keep the battery somewhat charged. Again, this has only happened two times - both times have gone the exact same way. Is this related to the cold, or could I be seeing the beginnings of a more expensive issue?
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2009 Ford Escape Noise Problem with 78000 miles
My hybrid car, I have hear a metallic click sound from tensioner since i bought my car at 70000 mile. It appear when car is warm not cold with start up my car and with each acceleration. The performance of my car no changed since i bought it. Why it click with each acceleration its noisy and bothering me. The sound is the same when i turn on the AC, it is from tensioner also.
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My 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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Are there any common trim peices etc that are known to come loose and cause a rattle in our trucks? My truck has always rode fairly quiet/tight, recently with the rough roads & stiffer tires plus cold weather I have noticed alot of little rattles which are hard to narrow down sometimes. They drive me insane. So far I have noticed the rear RH suicide door was one culprit which I quietened by a couple wraps of tape around the striker, but I can hear more from possibly under the dash & rear of cab.
Also I swore that my box was coming lose, if I went over railroad tracks I could hear a hollow rattling noise that seemed to be coming from back there, I looked and all the mounts are fine & seem quite solid, but when an 05 similar to mine passed me on the street one day and I noticed his box shaking alot more than the average truck, then looked at my own in the sideview mirror and it appeared to be bouncing around more than I think it should. I am kind of OCD about rattles & squeaks and cant sleep until I shut them up
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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I know this is an old subject that comes up from time to time. Most will notice it after an oil change or the first oil change anyway. Yet, some will never notice or experience the sound.
It is when you first start the engine, it has been described as a can of marbles being shaken or popping noise, maybe a metallic knock.
I have 17K on the truck now and this seems to be getting louder and more annoying. Sometimes it is louder than other times, and sometimes I don't hear it at all. I have always changed my oil right at 5,000 mile intervals. Fuel Filter at 13,500.
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I have noticed for some time, over bumps that the cabin makes lots of noise. It doesn't sound solid, it almost gives a hollow noise when going over a bump or pot hole in the road. I hate that it doesn't sound solid. The noise resonates from the rear. Almost like a plunk, plunk noise.
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I have had my 2010 Accent just over 2 months now, and have had no problems at all. It has 4500 miles on it (I travel often)
Starting on Monday, when I shut the car off, it made a kind of hollow pinging noise. I have not switched where I fill up my tank, nor have I been driving any differently, to make this happen. This happened again Tuesday morning, but has not happened since.
Then, this morning (Thursday) when I started my car, it made kind of a screeching noise. I immediately shut off the car, and restarted it. I did not hear the noise again. Then tonight, same thing happened.
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I have just purchased a 2004 v 8 phaeton with only 12k miles. it drive great except that when I give throttle /acceleration there is a noise (low pitched- hollow). I do not know if this is a normal noise or something which i need to worry about and always the engine coolant temperature gauge is at 200 (which is in the normal range- not sure because the temperature outside is high 102f). it drives great and all functions are fine. Do I need to change something or take it to dealer. the local dealer recently changed oil .
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In the morning when I back down the driveway with slight braking, the brakes make a loud hollow squeaky sound in a tunnel. The rear brakes were changed about 2 months ago.
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I've got a 2013 ecoboost with 31,000 mile on it. Generally it's been good but at 30,000 mile it started sounding like a diesel on cold starts. Usually after sitting overnight the first start rattles like a 6.0 liter diesel for about 3-8 seconds then it's quiet. It won't do it again all day usually. The dealer says there's no codes so everything it all good. It never did this until I hit 30,000 miles.
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I have a 2000 V70/XC volvo with 95K miles. I began hearing a strange hollow noise, like a whistle blowing. I took it to the dealership where I bought the car and they said it was the fuel pump. I asked them if it was bad and needed to be replaced and the said they weren't sure about having it replaced right away. They said sometimes it will make that noise and the fuel pump could last for months and sometimes for years. They even suggested to just drive it until it fails then replace it. some say it could never go out. But it bothers me because it is the car that my wife drives daily taking kids around and running errands and so forth. I am always worried that she could get stuck somewhere anytime. So I am not sure what to do.
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My car has ~2500km on it now and I've noticed a whirring / knocking noise from the left side of the car Mk6 GTI. It's not loud (in fact, hardly audible at times) but it's there. It's most noticeable when I am driving slowly (~30km/h) at low rpms (1500rpm).
It's only when the car is in motion that I can hear the noise. I revved the engine in neutral and could not re-produce the noise.
I've tried adjusting the tire pressure but that didn't seem to work. It was at 38 psi and now at 40 psi. No diff in the noise level.
It sounds like a knocking (like two plastic tubes hitting each other) /whirring noise but I cannot pinpoint the source...or whether it's even under the car or the engine...but it's definitely the left side.
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I have a 2012 F150 5.0 I just bought a couple weeks ago. I have a metallic ticking sound when cold, you can hear it when it idles down, but once driven and hot it is more faint but still there. Its not the injectors, Ive checked that.
Ive seen it posted in various forums but no cause mentioned. Ive had it in to the dealership and they are waiting for Ford to get back to them on what to do but I fear they will say its normal. My friends 2013 doesn't do it at all.
Listen to whole video, wait until the camera was placed on tire and its idled down to hear it. Its louder in real life but not extreme loud.
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When I'm driving with Windows up and audio off I can hear this hollow road noise, static buzzing sound from my back right side.
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