Ford - Escape :: 2010 - Stops Getting Fuel While Driving?
Jul 28, 2014
my 2010 Escape 89K miles. It will all of a sudden (at various speeds) stop getting fuel. I have to pull over...once i get close to a complete stop it lurches a bit, I put it in park and kill the engine - wait a minute and it starts back up. Initially thought i had water in tank (capless tank) 1st time it happened immediately after a carwash. So I added an additive to clean the fuel tank. Did it again after about 5 days. I cannot find a pattern (speed, fuel tank level) etc to this.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
So I was driving my husbands car the other day -it is a 2010 Ford Escape. He'd just had it in for the 75000 mile service and he'd had an oil leak and some sort of casing replaced to take care of that - and I stopped at a stop sign, turned the corner and 30 yards down the road, the gas peddle did nothing. I putted my way to the side of the road and the thing started shaking and all the lights were on on the dash. I put it in park and it still shook. Shut it off - exhaled deeply and turned the key in the ignition - nothing - but a distant sort of thugh,thugh,thugh,thugh with the wrench light on on the dash. Tried again and it started - and drove. Got home fine. My husband had the exact same thing happen to him, when he took it out so he took it back to the shop - they drove it for about 100 miles and couldn't get it to do anything like we described. They ran all sort of diagnostics and said they can't find anything wrong with the car.
View 5 Replies
I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
View 5 Replies
My 2010 Camry (4 cyl, auto) die again and again while I am driving. It is a big safety issue and I am wondering about the Toyota Quality. Why Toyota haven't fixed this serious issue. The brake stops working and the steering become really hard to move. So, there are very good chances of serious accident.
I went to a Toyota dealership and they replaced the battery and its cable and reset the check engine and skid control lights and told me to drive a while to see whether problem persists. Later same day both lights came again and car started doing the same. On my way back I went to Auto Zone to check the codes (because Toyota dealer closed at 4:00 on Sat) and I got the codes P0101 and P0171.
I will take it to the Toyota dealership again but I am seriously thinking to change this unreliable car with 73K miles.
View 2 Replies
A week ago, I bought my wife a 2010 Platnium White Lariat. (I will post pics later, when it's clean). We noticed that the smell of fuel, was bad after driving it, and coming to a stop, say at a stop sign.
We returned it to our dealer, yesterday, and this what they found. Just though I'd pass it on to you, for problem shooting, and infor to ask a dealership.
This is the quote on the paper we have. "Customer states when filling up or at idle the can smell fuel in the passenger compartment. Smells like coming from the engine area. Leaking at fuel rail. Tightened valve and road test no leaks now".
We were told that it was a "schrader valve". There was NO CHARGE for this repair. So far it seems to be o.k.
The advise we were given was as follows:
1) NO HEET is needed in the fuel tank
2) No Sea Foam, or injector cleaner of any kind
REASON: Was told it would mess up gaskets, and seals etc. I'm not a mechanic, just passing the word that I was told.
View 3 Replies
I just picked up my 2010 Prius yesterday and have a few questions. I live in area where there are hills, not as many as northern PA but there are still some substantial hills nonetheless. My question is how often can I go into the power zone going up hills and still achieve good gas mileage? I try to stay in the ECO zone whenever possible.
View 10 Replies
A large auto magazine has reviewed the Auris Hybrid (Gen III Prius drive train) while remarking that driving in 'B' gives better regen. This auto magazine also does a fuel economy evaluation and noted engine noise as a negative point for the car.
Now, how much fuel economy is affected during normal city/highway driving when you drive in 'B' rather than 'D'? And as a bonus. How much more will the engine run due to the missing regen?
View 13 Replies
Gen 3 .... Driving in Power Mode to obtain the best mileage? I find I am getting better mileage in Power Mode.
View 10 Replies
I noticed a drop on my mpg while driving with an open sunroof.
View 12 Replies
I bought my 2011 Prius III back at the end of December and so far have had 3 fuel ups. Not counting my first tank, my second tank I got 44.4 MPG calculated with mindful driving (driving slower and pulsing and gliding etc). The last tank however, I decided to drive a little more like how I drove my previous car (2001 Lexus ES300). This last fuel up resulted in 41.4 MPG calculated. I feel like I have to work quite a bit to keep it above 43 MPG. I am located in Southern California Orange County, however 90% of my driving is NOT in Socal Traffic. I also changed my oil to Mobile 1 Synthetic Enhanced Fuel Economy yesterday at 1200 miles.
I also have read a lot about break in at 3k-5k, which is keeping me hopeful. How much can I really expect, if any at all? I am not sure what to think on this because as with the people who have experienced good jumps after a break in, it seems there is an equal amount of people getting great MPG right off the bat.
- What fuel economy are you getting and how are you determining fuel economy? (trip computer or manual calculations) 42.9 average for the last 2 tanks - calculated
- What fuel economy are you expecting and why? 45-48, brand new car and adjusted driving techniques. I was hoping for 50+
- What are the approximate outside air temps? 55-80
- How long are your trips? Daily, about 3-5 driven. Weekends 80-160
View 19 Replies
A friend of mine have a 94' Explorer with the 4.0 v6. Fuel pump starts for 2-3 sec when i turn the key, stops when cranking and starts again when i stop cranking. i checked the fuel shutoff switch and it was ok, and it have spark.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2010 Ford Escape Limited. This has only happened twice, but when the fuel level is low (fuel level light on and indicating 50 miles or less til empty), the gas pedal does not respond as well. One time I pressed the pedal, the car shudders and tries to go, another time my wife was at a stop light, then tried to press the gas pedal and the car didn't go anywhere. She had to turn off the car, turn it back on, then it worked. Doesn't seem to happen when the car is full of fuel, but like I said, it's only happened twice.
View 7 Replies
About 3 weeks ago my truck decided not to start after having driven many miles. It has happened again after a day of driving with multiple stops. It cranks but doesn't turn over. Mechanic could find no code errors, there is no service engine light. Problem?
View 9 Replies
My '02 Explorer transmission is giving me a little trouble. The vehicle has 240,000 miles, but the transmission has been rebuilt several miles ago. I recently had the fluid changed, and I had them add a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix, which I have had good luck with in the past. Most of the time, the transmission behaves normally.
Occasionally however, when I come to a stop after driving for a while, the transmission stops pulling, like it has shifted into neutral. Sometimes it will re-engage after a couple seconds, and sometimes I try to hurry it along by shifting to Park, then back to Drive and it will go. If I am on an incline, and the vehicle does this, it will actually roll down the hill.
Hopefully there is a simple fix because this thing is too close to the end of its life to require a hefty repair investment! Maybe a switch or a sensor. I'd love to tell you that I checked the fluid level, but Ford forgot to put a transmission dipstick on it.....
View 7 Replies
My car is almost turning on. It goes all the way but then just doesn't start. The fuel pump is working, can hear it. We checked for spark and there is. we sprayed that carburetor or whatever it is in the air intake thing too and it still didn't start. My buddy is saying that it has to be a sensor. Either O2 or crankshaft something sensor.
View 13 Replies
Got this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
View 18 Replies
A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
View 3 Replies
2004 Ford Escape air conditioner works GREAT when sitting idle. Air conditioner blows HOT air while driving. Seems like the faster I go or the more load on the engine the hotter it blows. Weird?
View 2 Replies
My car makes a grinding/popping noise when driving that worsens when I go over bumps and that completely stops if I even touch the brakes. When I accelerate, the noise speeds up as well. I took it to a mechanic about three months ago and he said it was a loose bumper and that he secured it. After leaving, the noise got louder and happened more often. Sometimes the noise doesn't happen, while other times it does. My dad changed my front brake pads about a month ago so it can't be those. Is it possible that it is still my bumper making the noise? If so, I don't understand why it would stop when I brake.
View 1 Replies
Im noticing my mpg dropping in the past couple of months. I usually get 19 or 20 in town, and up to 23 on the highway. Now im lucking if I get 16 or 17mpg.
I have a 2001 escape XLT. 6cyl 4x4.
I changed the spark plugs, coils and fuel filter about 3 years ago (almost 40k miles ago).
The car starts fine, seems to idle fine, seems to accelerate ok. The only thing that is off is the MPG.
I dont just want to throw money at parts. Which one should I replace?
View 5 Replies
In December, I took my 2001 Ford Escape (123,000 miles) to my mechanic to find the source of a burning odor that I'd been smelling after driving. My engine light had also gone on several times and the engine ran rough, especially after very wet weather. They attributed the engine light to a cylinder 4 misfire, and the smell to oil leaking from my valve cover gasket. They strongly recommended, due to the proximity of my coils and spark plugs to the valve cover gasket, that I have my (still original) spark plugs and coils replaced in all 6 cylinders.
Considering that one coil had already been causing problems, they said that it would save labor to do them while they were so close in proximity. Considering the age and mileage of my car, the fact that I'd like to keep it for a couple of years, and the fact that this is a trusted mechanic, I took their advice. I had all of these repairs done to the tune of 1800.
Following this repair, I still smelled the burning odor. I gave it a couple of weeks, thinking this may be recently-leaked oil burning off, and then brought it back to my mechanic. They could not easily identify the location of the leak, so they injected dye, and I returned a few days later.
Now I'm being told that the oil leak is from my timing cover gasket. In addition to that, they say that the oil pan gasket will need replacement, because of its proximity to the timing case. My valve cover will also have to be removed and possibly replaced, but they said that they can possibly reuse it since it was just replaced in December. There was some discussion of replacing the timing chain while they were in the case. As an aside, I have had no indication that my timing chain has any issues.
View 3 Replies
