Ford - Escape :: 2010 - Shifts Hard When Started In The Morning
Dec 1, 2014
My 2010 Ford Escape Shifts hard, but only first thing in the morning. After it warms up I doesn't seem to do it. It has 66,000 miles on it and and when this started I took it to a transmission shop and they flushed out the transmission fluid. There were no warning in the computer for the transmission. I'm thinking it may not be the transmission, but an acceleration problem. Could this be true?
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I have the p0734 and p0732 codes. Thing is it shifts hard into second and wont go into overdrive when first started. After about ten minutes of drive time you shut it off and turn it back on and the thing shifts perfectly. No hard shifts and overdrive works then check engine light turns off. The pulse generators have been replaced when i purchased car. It is an 02 accent with 90,000 miles.
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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My transmission started jerking into 2nd and out of 2nd when it shifts. It only has 20k miles on it and has not been driven hard at all. I heard of some people doing resets on the transmission,.
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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I just bought a 2010 Santa Fe with 52,000 miles. The car looks great and runs fine once warmed up. Problem came after I got it home. I have found that it shifts rough when first started for about 5 miles. After that it runs great. From a quick search I have found 2 TSB's that may apply, 10-AT-006 and 11-AT-011-2.
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I have a 2010 which lately has been having difficulty starting on chilly days. That's saying something considering i live in Memphis, where the cold days are relatively mild. Sometimes it will hesitate on turning over, start and then my gauges flutter and the car shakes a little. Other times it makes a high pitched cranking noise. I haven't taken it anywhere yet because it seems to exclusively happen in the morning after the car has been sitting for 10 hours.
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Have a 2005 Ford Escape - my alarm goes off every morning at about 8 am. Been to a mechanic, but so far no fix.
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My 12 Escape with the 3.0, shifts fine in warm weather or in cold weather when warmed up. But first thing on a cold morning she's a bit of a screamer getting into the next gear. Is this a signal of something about to go wrong? Is there an easy adjustment? Or this is the way of it and it is fine......
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I've got an 01 Ford Escape 4 cyl 5spd awd, it idled low when its warm, revs between shifts and if you put it in nuetral and let the clutch out when you're moving it revs to 3500rpms and just sits there until you stop or push the clutch back in. I've replaced the iacv and the pcv valve, elbow and hose, and the tps. What to look at next?
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The last couple days the truck has been a hard start in the morning. about 28 deg F. I thought the glow plugs were getting weak or a couple of them were out.
Hooked up my AE and pulled codes, one of them was P0261 # 1 inj. Truck is fully warmed up and is running fine. Did a koer glow plug test and it came back ok. Power balance looks good now.
Probably looked different when I finally got it started this morning. Took 3 cranks to get her going and it sounded like crap till it got a bit warmer.
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My v10 has a cold miss when i start it in the morning no matter what the temp. It misses until it gets up to operating temp.then it runs fine all day with a slight miss.
- Changed plugs,
- Changed pcv,
- Changed iacv,
- Cleaned map sensor,
- Changed tube to pcv,
No codes. Its running as if it had a carb and the choke is closed. No smoke, tach. idles between 750 down to about 500, until it warms up then tach. Stays steady.
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my wife has an 06 with 77,xxx miles on it. as far as i know there has never been any tranny upkeep done on the vehicle. we have owned the care for approx 15 months. it doesnt act up all the time. it will shift real hard into reverse, feels like it is popping into it real bad. then at times it feels like it slips very little going into overdrive. and at times it will pop when shifted into drive. it is hard to predict, i thought maybe when it was warmed up and the fluid was warm it might not do this, but it does. i know nothing about this thing, the dealer wants me to bring it in so they can plug it in?
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I've noticed that my 2013 STX F150 4x4 5.0L shifts quite hard from 1st to 2nd. This clears up when I pull the battery cable for 30 minutes but comes back in about 2 weeks.
Is this a pretty normal thing?
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I just rebuilt my E4OD transmission in my 1996 F250 7.3L it has all new clutch packs torque converter and a shift kit. When I first put itback together it would not shift out of second cleaned mlps and shifts threw all the gears now. I took it out on the road to test it and this thing ran great shifted smooth and quick could not askfor any better but when Trans temp gets around 140-150deg it shifts hard and od light flashes. I have ordered a scanner to read the codes but won’t be in till later this week. What I could check in the meantime.
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Have an 01 f150 super crew 4x4 with 5.4 li shifts hard from 1st to 2nd - What could be the problem?
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Just recently my 2003 3.0 Ranger has started to rev high between shifts. With the clutch in the it will continue to rev high for 8 to 10 seconds. Where should I begin to look to correct this problem?
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2000 Ranger autimatic, 2.5 lt 2wd, 155,000 miles. To my knowledge it has never had a tranny flush or the fluid changed. I have noticed last week that when you are taking off from a stop sign it jerks going into gear. This only happens when you are taking off all the other shifts are smooth. The transmission fluid color is redish-brown and doesn't have a burnt odor. I don't know where to start. Do I get a tranny flush, change the fluid or is it something else?
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I have a few problems with my explorer. I was just wondering if there's any way I can fix them on my own instead of paying a mechanic. I
1. back passenger window wont roll down .. .
2. Gas gauge fluctuates can't get an accurate reading on it .. .
3. service engine light comes on for a couple days, then goes off .. .
4. shifts hard if i go over 65mph and then slow back down .. .
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I have 1993 F-350, 4X4, four door with a 460 fuelie and a 4EOD. That"s a bunch of 4's! I bought this pickup with 186,000 miles on it in 2005 or so, really just to haul fire wood and go to the dump once every 6 months. I don't know if the the tranny has ever been rebuilt. Nothing else on the pickup has been rebuilt. It now has 196,000 miles on it. In the past the tranny always shifted like a stock 4EOD. Kind of slides into the first three gears then into overdrive pretty solid. I took it out to go to the dump last week and it was just like always until it took it to taco party last night and it started to shift real abrupty. Doesn't matter how fast you go, it hits just as hard if you are on the gas or just casually cruising. It is hard in every gear. My first thought was that it may be low on fluid. When it is hot, idling in park after a drive I don't see oil in the little holes on the dip stick. I see oil on the dip stick but not in the little holes. Am I correct in thinking I should see oil in the holes? Actually I will see oil in the little holes when I first pull it out, then if i wipe it, put it back in, I see no oil in the holes. Engine idling in park of course.
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I just had my tranny rebuilt it doesn't shift hard all the time but it does from time to time going from 2nd -3rd and 3rd -4th I thought being new it may need to soak up some fluid so the bands can swell so I ask the shop that rebuilt it that question he said they soaked them as they rebuilt it so they should be swollen already then he proceeded to tell me it was electrical is he telling me the truth because the ck engine light isn't showing any faults and if it was electric shouldn't that have been fixed in the shop while it was being rebuilt if it was interior electronic?
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