Ford - Escape :: 2010 - Hard To Start On Chilly Days / Hesitate On Turning Over
Oct 17, 2012
I have a 2010 which lately has been having difficulty starting on chilly days. That's saying something considering i live in Memphis, where the cold days are relatively mild. Sometimes it will hesitate on turning over, start and then my gauges flutter and the car shakes a little. Other times it makes a high pitched cranking noise. I haven't taken it anywhere yet because it seems to exclusively happen in the morning after the car has been sitting for 10 hours.
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My wife has a 2010 Ford Escape. When we try to start it you have to push the key in REAL hard to get it to crank. It's been doing this for a while and seems to be getting worse. It took her 10 minutes before she could get it to crank earlier today. Our mechanic couldn't find anything wrong the first time we went in.
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2002 4.6L 75K Miles ... Truck has hard time starting if it sits for a few days. Recently had the fuel filter (under driver's door) replaced for first time, and mechanic said it was clogged (?). He also checked fuel pump pressure and said it was good (about 40 lbs). Truck starts OK if used every day. Battery seems OK, as starter turn engine fine. Seems that there's a fuel problem.
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The other day I noticed the car slipped into reverse fairly hard, then when I placed it into drive it also slipped in fairly hard. Once I was out on the road it hesitated and then slipped into gear 3rd then 4th, and when I slowed down it seem to hesitate when gearing down. Two days passed and no problems, then today started up again, and now the "check engine" light came on...! Shifted ok on the way home this evening but check engine light still on. Only 34K, 2012 bought in June 2011. Has been an absolutely brilliant ride up until this week. I understand the tranny is sealed ? Any tips besides taking it to a dealer ? Problem is I live quite a ways from one, and finding the time.
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This question is for recommendations on whether to have the dealer service (clean) the Camry's ignitors
In a previous posting, I mentioned that my Camry was hard to start after sitting in the garage for 2-3 days. Dealer "diagnosed" (guessed?) it as a weak battery, tho the cranking speed seemed pretty normal (peppy)to me. My first thought when it would not start was the fuel system (fuel pump) or dirty ignitors.
I asked my regular mechanic for an opinion on cleaning and he pretty much said "don't" unless there isa specific problem (eg engine check lite).
Could I hear from the group whether ignitor cleaning ($210) as a "preventive maintenance" is a good idea? I am not about to disassemble the throttle body or some such and do it myself, but I AM OK with adding acan to my gas tank, if it won't hurt and can work.
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I have an issue for the last couple of years. I drive a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 168,000 km's on it. the problem I am having only happens on any cold day and never above zero celcius and when I start the vehicle on a cold day and go for a short trip to the store run in for about 5-10 minutes and I come back out and it won't start, there is lots of power but it wont roll over at all but after trying many times it will eventually start and there is no CEL showing and I have never plugged it in on a cold day and as cold as the canadian winters get here its been down to as low as -40 in the morning and no problems at all, a little roll and a groan and away she goes which is typical in our cold climates.
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My 2010 Ford Escape Shifts hard, but only first thing in the morning. After it warms up I doesn't seem to do it. It has 66,000 miles on it and and when this started I took it to a transmission shop and they flushed out the transmission fluid. There were no warning in the computer for the transmission. I'm thinking it may not be the transmission, but an acceleration problem. Could this be true?
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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My car stopped starting reliably last winter. Since my driveway is on a hill and I have a clutch, I'd roll back and pop the clutch to start it (or just make the kids push - it builds character, right?). I finally broke down and put a new battery in it about a month ago. It still occasionally won't start. It seems worse if the weather is chilly. When it fails to start, the engine will turn over a few times, slower and slower each time, and then die. If I turn the key again right away, nothing - just the "click." If I wait about 2 minutes, it roars to life like nothing ever happened. Doesn't seem like an alternator problem. It's green.
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Wifes Escape with the 3.0 has been progressively getting harder to start. It spins over just fine, but now takes between 3 to 8 seconds to actually fire. In the last six months the alternator, spark plugs, air filter have all been replaced. Engine runs perfectly, never stalls and seems fine in every other way. I've cleaned the throttle body and the IAC is working fine.
Did some troubleshooting and sure enough, we are getting no spark for a few seconds and the engine runs fine when it finally gets spark. Would this be the crank position sensor? Cam position sensor causing this? Not sure what is supposed to happen during the starting sequence in regards to what sensors are in being read by the PCM and then enabling spark.
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I'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
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I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
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I have a 2013 Prius with 15k miles, and this happened to me recently for the first time:
- Drove 40 miles
- 24 hours of inactivity
- Drove a very short distance, maybe for 60 seconds, just enough for the ICE to start
- 48 hours inactivity
- Start car, ICE starts, but sputters and sounds like an old, sick lawnmower, and dies after 3-4 seconds. The "check hybrid system" warning is displayed, and I read a P3191 DTC
- Turn off car, repeat three more times, and by the third time, the warning lights went away, and the ICE runs fine again now.
I took the car to a Toyota dealer, and they told me that they didn't see any problems. A friend of mine had the exact same problem with a 2012 Prius, after the same scenario (3 days inactivity with a 60 second trip in the middle of the inactive period).
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She has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
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I bought this Escape used in Dec '10 with 29,000 miles. It is now at 36,500 (Sept '11). I have had it in for service 3 times in 3 months.
The passenger airbag seems faulty- if the seat is empty, the light will flip off (meaning airbag is on). If I sit in it, the light will go on and off intermittently. I'm 135 lbs- and the serviceman saw it happen as we drove around- yet when the car was given back to me after a week and a half, they stated they could not duplicate the problem and that no issues were found.
Now, I'm having starting issues. Once over Labor day weekend- I had driven my car, parked it, and went to get in it 5 minutes later- no start. No cranking, no clicking. All lights/radion come on. After sitting for about 20 minutes and attempting to start every couple minutes, it roared to life and was fine. Took in for service, and again- no codes, could not duplicate, so they sent it home.
Car sat for a week (I'm a student- it doesn't get much action except on weekends). Then yesterday, I drove it about 15 minutes, parked, came back 10 minutes later and it wouldn't start again. Again, after about 20 minutes of sitting and attempting to start, it started.
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My 2012 ISF has this weird hesitation going on. On manual mode with Sport, I would try to accelerate pretty hard and around 5k RPM, it would bog down and hesitate. Almost feeling like it's choking.
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My wife's '97 Bonneville has recently begun acting up. It especially seems to not like the cold weather. It starts hard then the motor will fluctuate and hesitate and die. It usually stays running the second time. Then when I put it into gear pushing the throttle doesn't do anything. It seems to stumble and falter. Sometimes, if I pump the gas it works other times if I move the pedal up and down slowly I can find the "sweet spot" and it will accelerate. I'm not sure if it's related or not, but sometimes going down the highway on long trips it will seem like the transmission is slipping and the car lurches or slows down. It's really weird. Then if you shut it off, it won't turn back on for 15 minutes or so.
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I'm having problems with starting my car when the engine is hot. Cold engine starts normally. But when the engine is hot and when I turn the engine off and return after few hours- it wouldn't start or it's very hard to start. Starter keeps turning but the engine revolutions are very low and the engine wont start. When I give it some gas it starts and the engine runs normally. I have already changed the coolant temperature sensor and one of the coils- no change. And the coolant seems to be wanishing too, but it happens very slowly. (There are no signs of leakage anywhere.) Maybe it's something to do with it?
The car is 2001 year VW Passat 2.3 V5 125kw (azx).
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So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
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Was at the gym, went to turn key and the power died, figured it was the NSS because ive had this problem before, mess with the stick a little bit and power will come back. Was having a harder time this time, so got a buddy to jump me and it got power and started up. On the way home every time id slow down to a stop the power would drain and the car would almost die. As i was pulling in my drive way, luckily, it died and i coasted in.
Figured it was the battery so i switched mine with my brothers. Was putting on the connectors and was having a hard time because sparks kept hitting me in the arm and id flinch and pull it back off, bolts wouldn't tighten, etc. FINALLY got a good connection and the wipers and lights stayed on and wouldn't turn off (even if the key was out of the car). Tried to start it and just a sustained whirl or a spinning, almost like a vacuum cleaner.
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Over the last week my GX has developed a strange issue. It sometimes takes 3 or 4 tries of turning the key before the engine fires up. It turns over strongly and quickly but it isn't "catching". The weird thing is, it doesn't happen every time. Here is what I have noticed:
1) Leave the vehicle parked overnight - no issues starting. It starts right up.
2) Crank the vehicle after having only been off a few minutes (like after you run in to pick something up at the grocery store) it cranks right up.
3) Let the vehicle sit for between 1 and 4 or 5 hours and the problem appears. It turns over and over and over but won't actually start. Anywhere between the 3rd and 5th turn of the key it will finally catch and actually crank.
In all cases, once it cranks it runs smoothly and normally with no issues.
I have replaced the battery thinking that was the issue but that did not fix the problem. Also strange is the fact that this problem occurred after I replaced both front door speakers, an operation that required me to have one or more doors open for an hour or so at a time (hence why I thought it might be a weak battery).
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