Ford - Escape :: 2009 - Metallic Click Sound From Tensioner?
Mar 15, 2013
2009 Ford Escape Noise Problem with 78000 miles
My hybrid car, I have hear a metallic click sound from tensioner since i bought my car at 70000 mile. It appear when car is warm not cold with start up my car and with each acceleration. The performance of my car no changed since i bought it. Why it click with each acceleration its noisy and bothering me. The sound is the same when i turn on the AC, it is from tensioner also.
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I've been noticing this one single "metallic" click sound a few months ago, it happens whenever I turn the steering wheel a little over 90 degrees.
The steering intermediate shaft recall has been done summer of last year. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with this sound I'm hearing.
This is a video I made
If you watch this video, you need to turn it up really loud to hear the faint click sound every time I turn the steering wheel past 90 degrees.
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This has going on for a few months now off and on. Whenever drive my F hard I notice this metallic click when i go to shift hard into second. The metallic click seems to be coming from the front of the car. I also get it if I'm around 3600rpm in and stomp on the pedal in first or second. It also happens when I shift into reverse. What it could be??
It also happens when i floor it and let off and do not change gears mainly in first and second. Sometimes i get a double click also.
At first I thought something could have gotten trapped in the engine bay and it only accelerated to a high enough speed to cause an audible noise but seeing as it been 3 or 4 months I don't think its the problem. It does not seem to effect spend and it does not make the click all the time.
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I have a 2012 F150 5.0 I just bought a couple weeks ago. I have a metallic ticking sound when cold, you can hear it when it idles down, but once driven and hot it is more faint but still there. Its not the injectors, Ive checked that.
Ive seen it posted in various forums but no cause mentioned. Ive had it in to the dealership and they are waiting for Ford to get back to them on what to do but I fear they will say its normal. My friends 2013 doesn't do it at all.
Listen to whole video, wait until the camera was placed on tire and its idled down to hear it. Its louder in real life but not extreme loud.
[URL] ....
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Curious, how does the 4x4 engage in the new F-150's? When I put the truck in 4WD I can here the click sound coming from the front axle, where as it comes from the t-case on my Ranger. Just wondering how it's set-up.
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I have an '09 Camry and for the last few months have been hearing a metal popping sound in the rear wheel area when I go over a bump or pothole unevenly or backout of a driveway at an angle to go onto the street. The sound does not occur when the wheels when they are even, only when the rear right wheel is "lower" than the left. It has not been in any accidents and there was no event that preceded this popping. I took it to the dealership but they were unable to replicate the issue but it happens no matter who drives the car (my husband or myself) and it is likely that the service guys didn't go over any bumps/curbs/potholes unevenly to hear the sound. They check the axles and said everything was good with the car but it is still popping and driving me nuts.
Current suggestions:
• Cracked bearing race. It could be another problem entirely having to do with the suspension mounts or axle mounts but let's hope these new mechanics will figure it out.
• Problem with a wheel bearing
• Struts and suspension components
• Bushings and parts
• Loose upper strut center nut or from loose upper strut mounting nuts
I took it back to a shop but they are thinking the sound is actually coming from the body near the roofing area in the right rear portion of the car. They seem to think based on the sound (metal popping only when that wheel is lower (like coming out of a driveway angled, or going over a pothole)) that it is the metal body but it would cost and arm and a leg to get in to even find out what it was. They assured me that it wasn't impacting the safety of the body and is just a funky sound. The sound is much louder in the car than outside which I think kind of supports their theory. Are they right and it won't impact the safety?
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My 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
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I have a 2009 Ford Escape XLT, 4 cyl. and in the summer I had the vehicle in as the speed sensor failed. Since that time I have an ongoing ticking sound (sounds like a diesel vehicle). I had the vehicle into my local dealer and after looking over the vehicle they stated that it was "normal". However, my warranty is up in January 2014 and this sound is horrible. Below is a video of the sound.
[URL] .....
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My 2013 Ford Escape SEL makes a metallic, hollow POP noise upon a cold start. It sounds like it comes from underneath the driver's side - a little towards the back end. The noise is very brief - half a second and then it's gone. It will do this relatively consistently both when it's cold and when it's hot outside, but usually only after the vehicle has been turned off for at least 3 hours or so.
My dealership can't get it to make the noise and they've had it for almost a week now. Most days the car will make this noise with me in the morning, for my lunch break and again when I leave work. My luck they have it 5 days and the noise up and leaves.
In the meantime, I'm driving a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 'loaner' and the loaner car made the exact same noise!
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I took my 2009 Santa Fe Limited to my dealer this morning to have them take a look at a click / pop sound that I was occasionally hearing from the front. They inspected everything and did not find any issue and could not replicate. No problem...they did not charge me for the inspection. Great.
So I'm driving home and while making a left turn, all of a sudden my Santa Fe stalls without any warning in the middle of the turn! No audible warning what so ever...just a dead pedal, stiff steering wheel and little braking power. The electrical seemed to be fully working, as my radio and instrument panel was working.
When I had drifted to a stop, I checked my instrument panel and I saw the following indicators:
Immobilizer warning light
Check engine malfunction indicator light
Low oil pressure warning light
Charging system warning light
So I immediately call back my dealership and they ask if I'm able to start the car back up and drive back to the dealership. I start the car back up without issue and drive back.
They bring the car into the bay and hook it up to run diagnostics. The results show no errors??? No codes were thrown??? I have a copy of the report. I don't understand how nothing was captured?
CM series 2009 Santa Fe? 108,000 kilometers. I'm really concerned that this happened without any warning and no digital record or log from the diagnostic. What if I did get into an accident because of this stall and had no way to prove that it was not my fault?.
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I bought a new 2012 corolla a month ago and when the wiper is on the intermittent mode, the wipers make a click sound before it moves and then another click sound after it moves. I still can hear it half of the time with music on (only when the music Is quieter.
I listened to my friend's 2010 corolla and his car had a very faint click. I drove many other cars before and never had this sound. Is this a known sound for corolla?
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Experiencing a metallic click or something alike when coming to a full stop?
I've notice this new noise and it seems to happen about 0.5 seconds after the car has come to a complete stop, not during the stopping. It only happens when stopping at a red light, and it doesn't do it on stop and go traffic.
It also doesn't seem to coincide precisely with applying the brakes because is AFTER the car has stopped, again, in less than a second. I hope that makes any sense.
It happens maybe 25% of the time but, then again, if I go to the dealership I'll probably won't be able to reproduce it.
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My dad has an 2001 XLT 3.0 4x4 with 100,000 miles. He was having trouble with hesitation and decided to change the fuel pump. All went well and the Escape ran fine for a couple of weeks. The other day, he went to start it and nothing happened. One click and the gauges ran up and stuck. Battery was tested at Auto Zone and checked ok.
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I have a 2011 Escape. When I punch in the entry 5 digit code on the door post, I hear a small "click" and the parking lights come on. The door locks, however, do not operate. When I use the key fob the locks do work. What the problem is?
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Got an oil change yesterday and the dealer noticed a small oil leak from the timing cover on my '10 Corolla w/ 71k. Of course they could reseal it for $450. After further investigation, it looks like it is actually coming from the timing chain tensioner. I have seen on the 9th gen this is a common issue, but I haven't really seen anything on the 10th gen. Sometimes, I have noticed a short squeal or squall at cold startup, but it hasn't been enough to really diagnose. It could be some oil on the belt or something else related to this issue. Hopefully the pictures show up.... [URL] ......
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We drove our 2009 Honda to and back from Nova Scotia from NY. The Serpentine tensioner bolt broke off after we got home. Anyway, we pulled into Jiffy Lube and they both said that that should not have happened. The mechanic said the same and gave us the old tensioner back to take to Honda saying it was a defect in the car. The car has 45,000 miles on it. My question is what department to approach at Honda if a part is defective? I am thinking it may have been better to take it to Honda in the first place.
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2010 corolla bought new 3/29/010 has 43k dealer said timing chain tensioner was slipping and might leak oil wanted $175 to replace shouldn't this be covered under the power train warranty?
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Got some snow tonight and was driving home from work around 35-40 mph in 4x4. You can tell that everything is engaged by the feeling and noise. Just not sure if this is abnormal. When letting off the throttle there's an extra metallic rubbing sound that goes with the drivetrain speed. Not sure if I'm just hearing the driveshaft from being in 4x4 of if something is up?
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I have a 2007 Kia Rio LS. I can't get it to do this ALL time time, but when I accelerate hard (passing, getting off the line quickly) I hear a metallic sort of coughing sound from my car. It seems to happen around 30-40 MPH, but not the same speed each time. I think I may have heard that sound once while it was idling.
I have done all the scheduled maintenance (I'm behind a bit for the 70,000) that my mechanic has recommended, and I keep up OK with my oil changes. We've skipped doing the timing belt thing, because it's a tear apart job- we're going to wait until 'other things' need doing and get it all in one fell swoop. This is my road trip car. I'm worried my transmission is slipping, or my timing belt is prepping to do something horrible while I'm on the road. Probably in the middle of nowhere.....
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I got a heat shield that just will not stop causing me grief. When I installed the headers and pipes I had a heat shield that was too close to the passenger side pipes. I bent it down some to clear the pipe and got rid of a nasty metallic sound I had on the throttle and making left hand turns. Well that little sound returned last week and I crawled under and looked and sure enough the heat shield was touching again.
Who knows why maybe a bit a spring sag. So yesterday I bent it down a little more. Today I start getting a nasty clunk on dips and especially when on a bump why turning. I crawl under there too look and find the same heat shield now has a huge gouge on the under side of it where the leaf spring near the rear bushing is smacking it. I'm sure Ford put it there for a good reason so hate to remove it.
First pic of the hacked up bend job I put on it.
Second pic of the gouge in the bottom of it where it's hitting.
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Drove about 10 mins and parked. Came back 5 mins later and wouldn't start. Starter click can be heard when trying to crank but doesn't turn engine. Checked fuse (#113) and starter relay - both are good. AAA came out and tried to jump but no success. Flat bed towed back to my house last night.
This morning, woke up bright and early to pick up brand new Napa Premium starter. Replaced it thinking that was it. No dice- same thing, 1-click, no turning of engine.
Batteries & terminals both good & clean. Hooked up 2 additional fully charged deep cell marine batteries via jumper cables and no difference. Voltage @ starter terminal = 12.4V.
When cranking, voltage drops all the way down to 1-2V if holding the key in the crank position (1 click and then nothing). Returns back up to ~12V when released.
Jumped pos terminal to starter solenoid, got clicking but doesn't turn engine.Is my tranny or engine frozen...?!
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