Ford - Escape :: 2008 - Child Safety Locks Are Not Engaged
Mar 2, 2012
I have a 2008 Ford Escape. My wife complains that no one in the back seat can get out of the car unless she unlocks all the doors with the power switch first. The child safety locks are not engaged. The lock stem is easily visible, and can be pulled up by hand for each door.
Is unlocking the doors by hand a bad thing for the power locks? Will it cause undue damage to the system and make it fail any faster than using the switch would normally?
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Since I had my '02 I've had the child safety lock on the passenger side rear door on (active). I went to disable it (you know, stick the ignition key in and turn it 90 degrees to the side without the child's picture) and I'm still unable to open the door from the inside.
Everything else with the door works fine. The power locks work. Even pulling the handle twice pushes the lock button to the up position. And opening the door from the outside works as it's supposed to. The only thing I cannot do is open the door from the inside. Have I missed anything?
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I have a problem with my driver side rear door's child safety lock. The safety lock is STUCK/BROKEN on the lock position and i cant get it back to normal... The door could only be opened from the outside right now at all times.
I took the door panel off too see if i could do anything to make it unstuck but very unfortunate...
The safety lock is a whole module itself. I bought it to my mechanic he checked it out and said it cannot be fixed and has to be replaced and he quote/estimated me just the part alone is roughly $300?
How much the part would cost in Sewell? I tried looking it up but cant locate it
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While traveling I made a fuel stop. Restarted engine fine, stepped on brake, but could not move the shifter out of Park. Towed to Ford dealer, after extensive trouble shooting replaced shifter cable and transmission position sensor. A week later same problem but glad I learned about the interlock override lever on the steering column so can continue to drive. It locks up several time a day. Here's what I know and observe.
. brake light switch appears to be normal
. engine starts normally
. brake lights operate normally
. fuse on interlock function is ok
. when the lockup happens the shift indicator is missing the box over the P
. this may not relate but backup/reverse lights operate very weird - in reverse they only light when the engine in rev'd and go out when the gas pedal is released
There appears to be a gremlin in this Escape that eludes Ford and me. I read some reference to a computer control involved in the interlock function. I'm at a loss.
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I am having this on and off problem of getting the shifter out of PARK sometimes its easy sometimes its frozen. I am going to take the plastic off to investigate the linkage more and I know there is a brake shift to unlock the transmission out of park. 2002 ford escape 3.0 ....
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My problem is my right front axle (cv shaft) when in 2wd and engine running will not turn, everything else will as it should. in 4wd engine running nothing moves... if i jack up tire engine off right side makes a clicking noise kinda like the wheel of fortune wheel (from the tv show) <<<just in case. 4WD does not work when engaged, by that i mean they dont pull like there not locked in....
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Have an 08 f150 crew and love it. I have noticed though that when its in 4x4, it seems as thought the right front wheel is always engaged. Why it's not letting the 4x4 float back and forth from right to left??
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My son phone me from his University saying that whole car was shaking when engaged in R or D. I thought it was a failed GB mounting but turn out to be the RH engine mount. I replaced it but got #3 cylinder misfiring and high idling (1500 rpm) from OBD2 reader.
Fitted new spark plugs and ignition coils swap but still same DTCs. We can hear the misfiring from the exhaust noise. However engine power is normal. But the newly fitted engine mount may not last with the misfiring not resolved. I have cleaned the throttle body too.
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I think the ac compressor on my wife's 2008 Camry (2.4L) is stuck engaged. I've pulled the wire and it still didn't come loose. That being said, I've also read about a Mercedes that doesn't have an ac clutch, but rather the compressor vanes are varied to increase/decrease the compressor pressure. It's a shot in the dark, but perhaps it's the same with the Camry? It's been this way all summer (that I know of). The A/C seems to cycle on and off properly within the cabin. If it weren't for possible increased fuel consumption, extra drag on the motor, and possible premature component failure I wouldn't even be concerned with it. What to do with this?
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2004 4x4 super crew cab. Door locks don't work from switches, touch pad on drivers ext. door or with key fob. I checked the fuses and both the 10 amp and 30amp fuses are good. Where do I go from here. some time ago I had the submerged wiring issue and corroded connections in the bottom of the rear door rail. Could it be the same issue in the front door?
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My 2008 Prius has been sitting for about 25 days while I've been out of town. I just tried to drive it, but it feels like the parking brake is engaged even though I've pushed it off (and the lights are showing it is off).
A bit more detail: Car has been parked on a relatively steep incline (maybe 35 degrees) for about 25 days (this is its normal parking spot). Parking brake was engaged during this time. Weather is mild to warm (it's Hawaii). When I try to back up it feels like there is something behind the one of the rear tires, and the car almost starts to lift up a bit. (But there's nothing there that I can see.) I might have been able to push the gas a bit more, but was afraid of damaging something. When I put the car in drive and take my foot off the brake it rolls slightly (and very slowly forward), but not nearly what it should (I'm afraid to push the gas at all because there is a wall very close to the front of my car).
Seems like maybe the brake is stuck or something of the sort...
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My 2008 F150 Super Crew Door locks use to work like this, When you pushed the unlock button on the key fob once it unlocked the driver door only then if you pressed it again it unlocked the other 3 doors. A few months ago it started unlocking all 4 doors with one press. The owners manual does not show this as a option and when I had it at the dealer for brakes they tried to get it back the way it was but could not figure it out either.
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I have a 2008 F150 Super Crew 4x4 when you press the unlock button on the remote all the doors unlock, it use to be one push for drivers door and two would unlock all doors. I think the problem started after I had the battery changed out, how to get it back to one push for drivers door only?
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on my 04 supercab f150. one moment door locks work, the next nothing. started this weekend. its a bone stock truck with 128000 miles. sometimes work sometimes don't. have wiggled harness and connections outside the door. worked fine, pulled it out of the shop and parked it now not working again.
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I have an electrical issue on my 2007 F150.
The drivers door electrical switches (windows/locks/mirrors) have all stopped working. The locks on the other doors work but not the windows.
I have replaced all fuses with no luck. I'm thinking it's either a ground wire or the accessory delay relay.
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I have a 2008 Yaris and the handbrake freezes when engaged (I set it after parking but then can't get it to release, leaving me stranded). Is this just poor design? I managed to force it to disengage with a screwdriver but I now no longer use the handbrake/parking brake for fear of this happening again.
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I have the above mentioned car with 50876 miles. I noticed that the steering wheel causes a click in the suspension when turned left or right whether stationary or with the brakes engaged. Also I noticed a thump felt through the steering wheel while doing the same action. What could be causing it, I checked my power steering pump and the fluid is brownish-red in color and no leaks are visible either on the ground or around the pump. I also got under the car and there seems to be no leaky CV boots ( i had to look these up to know what they look like).
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I have replaced the front rotors, calibers, pads and brake lines. I went through the process of bleeding the brakes by using the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front and left front.
I did this about 4 times - process was to pump the break until the pedal was hard then my son kept his foot on the pedal while I release the bleeder value. During this process I kept the master cylinder full.
Took the car out and the pedal went right to the floor when applying the brakes. The car did stop but not as I had expected. So what have I done incorrectly here? Is there something else to check?
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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I am switching over to 08 door panels so in my attempt to rewire the door locks I crossed a bunch of wire that I shouldn't have because I had the wrong pin out and I shorted out the circuit. I rebuilt my 08 switches with the 04 parts so now I can reuse my old wiring connectors. I just soldered the old connectors back on and replaced the 30 amp fuse for the power locks. for some reason only the lock function on the passenger side works and it locks both doors but I have no unlock function on the passenger side or anything on the drivers side. Are there any other fuses that I could have missed? I don't have long to do anything invasive but as far as fuses I have all day to replace them. Basically I shorted stuff then I put everything back to the way it was stock and now my locks no worky
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I just purchased a 2005 F150 (4.6L / 4 door). The lot I purchased it from had picked it up at auction. Tell-Tell signs indicate it was a repo. (Only one key, no fobs, locking fuel filler door jimmied and spring removed, scratches on upper corner of driver's side door and rubber bent back.
The power locks switch on arm rest works on all doors except driver's. The drivers door does lock and unlock manually. I am wanting a good hypothesis before I begin tearing into the door panel.
If the latching mechanism was damaged, it wouldn't lock manually, right? If the electronics were damaged the other doors wouldn't work right? So, my hypothesis is the actuator on driver's door. Do I start searching for/locating possible replacement parts?
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