Ford - Escape :: 2006 - Paint Loss On The Roof
Jul 28, 2014
I have a '06 Ford Escape Hybrid that has a tennis ball size patch on the roof that is missing paint. The sheet metal is exposed & has the faintest amount of surface rust on it. It looks as if the paint bubbled in that one area & peeled off. I'm not really concerned with aesthetics that much, but wanted to know what folks recommended for patching this spot. I assume I would need to remove the rust (it's barely noticeable) before applying any kind of primer. Do they sell patch paint in an aerosol can that matches the factory finish? I don't have the money budgeted for any full paint job at the dealer, MAACO, or wherever. I just want to halt any more rust & patch the paint without it looking too 'ghetto'.
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I happened to look at the top of my 04 Excursion yesterday and found the paint cracking and lifting off the roof. So the first thing I did was to come look here and see if it was a common issue. I searched and found a couple threads about this issue from 2 and 4 years ago.
Apparently, the paint was applied too thick and that is why it cracks, lifts and breaks off. Some said they went to ford and ford has offered some type of discount on the repair.
But, that was years ago and I'm not sure if I think that ford is liable to fix this on an 8 year old vehicle.
I uploaded a couple pictures of the sots : Roof Paint Cracking - Picture
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My escape struggles to reach 30 mph.. throttle position sensor code when scanned.Replaced the sensor but still barely any power check engine light hasnt come back on.
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I have a 2004 Ford Escape XLT V6 and I am experiencing a major loss of power in the vehicle. It idles smooth at about 1000rpm's but when you drive it , the vehicle won't go over 30mph and has a significant miss to it. I replaced the fuel filter, put in some Seafoam and took it for a drive and it still did not have any power and I blew out the EGR valve on the test drive. I replaced the EGR valve and the problem still remains. I hooked up a handheld computer to it and I got a P0300, P0304, P0305, P0306, P0316 and a P0355 error codes.
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A couple weeks ago I had to have both lower ball joints replaced on my '01 XLS 4WD with the 6 cylinder engine. The garage's alignment machine was on the blink, so the mechanic told me to it woudl be fine to drive, and to bring it back this week when the machine was fixed.
The Escape seemed to drive fine until today, coming home from work, the Escape veered slightly to the right, and there was a brief sensation in the steering wheel as if it had been disconnected, as if something slipped. Then the steering was back, and although I was tracking straight down the highway, I noticed the steering wheel was turned to the left. It seemed to steer fine, although I had slowed way down.
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So heres the story..........'02 Escape, 179K miles, just had the oil changed 2 weeks ago, ever since then I've smelled oil burning when the car starts up and every now and then after exiting the car. Also have had the check engine light on intermittently for the EGR insufficient flow for the past few months. It comes and goes whenever it wants. Today Wifey called me and said something was wrong with the car, I drove it home (about 26 miles). The car runs fine as shifts through the gears, but as soon as it gets a load put on it, it cant pull hard like it used to and it gets a high pitched/squealy whistle similar to a turbo that's spooled up.
Its hard to say where its coming from but from what I can tell I'd say somewhere under the hood near the glove box. (that's the only way I can think of to describe it). There's a big long hill right outside her work that I wasn't sure I was gonna make it up. Car just didn't have any power and couldn't decide what gear to be in as RPMs were too high in a lower gear but wouldn't pull in the higher gear. Car pulls hard off the bottom but falls flat in the midrange. I was thinking maybe clogged cat but what would the whistling sound be?
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So my wife's 2005 escape has been slowly losing power over the past 6 months or so. I regularly change the oil, tried new spark plugs, new air filter and still it's lazy. I know it's not a race machine but it struggles on hills.
This winter it was having problems starting unless the accelerator was pushed to the floor. After a cleaning of the Idle control valve all was well again. It has roughly 72,000 miles on it and uses .5-1qt of oil between changes.
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It's coming off on all 4 wheels and its OEM original paint. I can see other areas where the paint has cracked and starting to lift as well. These Lexus wheel paint really suck... My Volvo alloys are 18 years old and still do not have peeling issues like this!!
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Let me begin by saying I have no clue what this trim or molding is called. It goes from hood to the trunk and runs beside the windshield and rear window and all the way across the top.
Well mine is peeling off. By this I mean the "sticker or decal" that lexus decided to use instead of paint is peeling off and now my car looks like crap. What is the name of this part or how to remove it so I can go have it painted? The dealership offered no assistance besides charging me 1200 to have them taken off and "new ones" put on that have the same sticker piece on them.
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I just got a beautiful red '06 with only 19k miles. It's my second SC, and I can't believe how much I missed it after a four year break.
However, there's already trouble. The roof only opens intermittently. When it works, it's all good, no vibrations, nothing off track, smooth operation all the way open and close.
When it doesn't work, the red light on the open/close button will NOT light up. Nothing happens at all. I will come back to the car a few hours (or minutes) later, and it works fine. The problem never occurs for closing, only opening. Also, several times now I have closed my roof, and then immediately tried to open it again, but no deal. Those symptoms make me think it's not the ECU, but one of the sensors.
BTW, there is no Luxlink installed yet. I have yet to find one that includes the double-click option
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My car loses power when it's to hot outside. When pressing the gas from a complete stop it can barely get going and then within a few seconds the power kicks in and it goes. One summer I was away for 10 days, when I came back, it started, then stalled and died. i took it in, the dealer said the main computer chip had re-scrambled it's self. this has happened twice, the dealer could not give me an answer as to why, but they were happy to take my $260 to fix it. 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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2006 ford escape cranks wont start, I have spark and fuel....
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I am having a problem starting my Escape. It ran fine when i parked it. Now it turns over but wont start.
It turns, almost catches, then turns slower. White smoke comes out of the exhaust, which means it is getting fuel i think. When I crank it all the dash warning lights go off. I tried the spare key. I tried pushing the gas pedal. No codes on the scanner. I switched the fuel relay (r3) with the fan relay (r4). I tilted the column a few times. Coils and wiring do not show any damage or wear. I opened the air filter with no change.
The only change i notice is that when turning the key has some resistance. It does not feel like it used to turn. This year I had to install a new battery and alternator. At 90k miles i gave it a tune up (plugs, boots and coils). It has 116k on it now.
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I'm getting very low airflow out of all of the cabin vents. I've already checked and cleaned/replaced the air filter and cabin blower fan and the ducting between the two, there's no obvious debris at the intake. The blower and resistor are working fine - when removed but left connected to the electrical, it starts up fine, is quiet, and changes speed appropriately when the fan speed in changed. I think there's either debris or something buggered in the system that controls the vents, but I'm not sure how to check that.
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I am working on a 2006 Escape that originally came in with a misfire. It had three bad coils, and they had burned out three of the coil drivers in the computer. It had a new computer put in, but will not communicate with the scanner now to program the keys. The old computer would still communicate, and the vehicle can be started and run on three cylinders with that computer, but unfortunately it needs to run a bit better than that. Is there something I am missing about getting communication with a new computer?
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My wife's 08 Escape has an issue with the ignition key actually sticking in spots when turning to the start position, then we almost have to turn it back to the run position, it doesn't spring back like it used to, and should do. It's an 08 Escape, XLT V6 AWD, auto transmission.
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I clearly have some kind of electrical issue. The odometer and speedometer are no longer visible, the digital display on the clock/radio is barely visible (brightness varies day to day) and the abs light is always on. Now the check engine light is always on. I have to be somewhere around 200,000 miles and other than this the car has been a champ! I had Auto Zone check fuses and run a scan but they couldn't detect the problem. One suggestion I was given was input/output sensors.
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Girlfriend's Escape is leaking from the front passenger side. I can see where the fluid is coming from, and hear a hiss when the brake is applied.
I think she just needs the one line replaced- what's a ball park cost?
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Friend just got a mariner hybrid car, Its quite nice but it keeps cutting out on them on the freeway, a message will flash saying pull over as soon as possible. they turn the key off then back on and it's fine for awhile. It's happened 3 times to them today and once in awhile before that. no codes have been thrown, the CEL light is not illuminated. they are Flummoxed on this issue as I am. Also, is there a way the door key pad code can be read? they did not get it with the car and they'd like to use it. Message shows as 'Stop Safely Now' .....
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Looking for info on how to remove the steering wheel on 2006 escape to get to cruise control switches and is there a self test you can do for cruise control functions like holding on button while you turning switch on as in other models ???
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I have a Mazda Tribute 2006 2.3. The O/D light would come on, drove it to a friends to scan the check engine light code, and the car almost made it there and then wouldn't remove in reverse, forward, or anything. Turn it off then start it up still wouldn't, then turned it off let it cool and it worked again for a little while.
The code was P0741, just the one code. Took it to a shop to have further tests, they seemed to think it was the clutch was worn and when the fluid heated it lost friction.
Pulled the transmission and thought why not do a Transmission rebuild? I have never done one but there was an awesome video on youtube of the guy doing it so I figured it couldn't be too hard and was just going to try my first rebuild.
According to the guy in the video you always need all new bushing, and we will get a rebuild kit with new clutch packs and the other stuff that comes with those, and sounds like it's a good idea to replace the torque converter.
The car is only at 85K and it looks like the transmission was rebuilt once before he got it at 80K. Maybe a bad rebuild?
Here are some pictures .....
The Input Sprag bearing was shredded and the bushing looks terrible. Can I just replace the bearing and the bushing? Is there any other damage I should be looking for because of this?
The forward planet you can so some eaten metal on the edge and 2 gears spin super smooth and the other 2 you have to push pretty hard to get them to turn. So new forward planet?
The shell's corners look a little rounded I wasn't sure how much was to much, can you tell from the picture if it looks like too much?
Input Sprag
Forward Planet
Sun Gear Shell
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