Ford - Escape :: 2006 - Loses Power When Hot Outside
Jun 2, 2012
My car loses power when it's to hot outside. When pressing the gas from a complete stop it can barely get going and then within a few seconds the power kicks in and it goes. One summer I was away for 10 days, when I came back, it started, then stalled and died. i took it in, the dealer said the main computer chip had re-scrambled it's self. this has happened twice, the dealer could not give me an answer as to why, but they were happy to take my $260 to fix it. 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid...
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I have a 2006 Ford Escape that's turning into a mystery. Over the last few months the warning lights have been reporting issues with the overdrive. I've taken it to the mechanic who hasn't been able to identify the issue.
He's cleared the issues from the ECU, and the car doesn't complain for about 2 weeks, then it reports a different issue related to the overdrive (eg: OD or transmission).
Possibly related, the car occasionally loses power on acceleration. When taking off from a stop, it'll be really underpowered while getting up to speed. This only happens occasionally.
Is it a part failure, or could it be electrical or related to the sensors?
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2006' screw, 5.4L, 116K miles ... The truck looses power at highway speeds to the point that I need to pull off of the road. When this happens the check engine light is on and the truck is still running but will not accelerate, is it possible the computer is going into limp mode and if so what would cause this?
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My 2006 650i loses power under moderate to heavy acceleration. If I accelerate from anywhere over 2500rpm, it will accelerate then the engine rpm will drop suddenly by 500-1500rpm, and then will continue to accelerate again from this lower rpm. It only seems to happen once each time I punch the pedal. The car does not throw any codes. I have had the dealer and Dinan Performance examine the problem and they have not been able to isolate the problem. They have run vacuum leakage tests, fuel pressure tests, and may have checked the throttle position sensor. This really takes the fun out of driving this car. I have about 50K miles on it.
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I have a 2006 Nissan Murano with 122,000 miles on it. It's been a good car, but recently it has had a few episodes of losing power. Here's an example:
I had been driving the car here and there all day, and in the afternoon I swung by my mom's house to pick her up. When she got in the car (I had just been idling while waiting), I went to make a U-turn and the car outright died. I started it right back up and was able to drive to the end of the block before it lost power. It didn't die this time -- the engine was still on -- but all my electrical components went out -- radio, dashboard lights, AC -- and I couldn't get it to go more than 20 mph. That was flooring it. It wasn't giving me a high-pitched whine, just a low hum like it was trying really hard to go but couldn't. I turned it around and barely made it back up the hill to my mom's to park it. It just had no get-up-and-go. An hour or so later my dad came home and checked it out and of course it was fine. Started right up, drove fine.
This has happened twice since, both times I was driving on the freeway when I felt the loss of get-up-and-go and saw the electrical components go out. These times it only lasted maybe 10 seconds, after which it just came back to life in the middle of driving and drove fine the rest of the day.
It makes me think there must be some sort of loose connection somewhere? I'm frustrated by the issue because it's not repeatable. So when I took it to my mechanic, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. They hooked it up to a code reader and nothing came up, and they drove it around and around and it was fine. The idea that it could maybe strand me on the side of the road (I drive my kids around all day) scares me, so I've swapped cars with my husband for the time being. But I want my Murano back!
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Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
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I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid with about 150,000 miles.
It sometimes is lacking normal power - slow to start but fine once to full speed. When it is lacking power I notice that the gas engine is not shutting off when stopped at traffic signal like it normally does with charged batteries. It will be like this or a few days and then suddenly has its normal power and shuts of at traffic signals again.
Seems to be some failure of communication in the hybrid controls with system not telling the electric motor to do its thing. Where I should start looking for fix of this intermittent problem?
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I recently purchased the 2006 Mazda Tribute and the previous owner has confirmed the cruise was not working. What I have looked at:
Checked fuses
checked cable and connections
check connections at unit
What I have is the cruise will power on (light on dash comes on) but it does not appear to engage. I tried to use the diagnostics built into the car, where you hold the off button and turn the key on. I get a flash for off, and on, but do not get a flash when I push the resume button.
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
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1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
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I have a 2006 ford taurus that the dash started flickering about a month ago then it was fine for a couple weeks, yesterday it started flickering again, and then today it completely stopped working all gauges like car is off, check engine and battery light is on as well as oil light, car runs great regardless of cluster out or not. Air conditioning goes out when cluster goes out. I see many things on lights for the cluster but nothing for this and nothing with the a/c as well.
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Pretty much like clockwork. Every 9 seconds the power dies for about 1 second and then comes back on. Sometimes the Theft light comes on.
If I am at idle, the car dies. No check engine light. The car has had all new ignition parts in the last year except battery and alternator.
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5.0L V-8, Electronic Fuel Injection, 79,000 miles, 2 WD, 4 speed manual. I'm the original owner.
If I drive it 4-5 miles on secondary streets (25-40 MPH) it shuts off without warning after 10 minutes and will not restart without a 20-30 minute wait. If I drive it 2-3 miles and park it for a couple of minutes it will not restart without waiting 20-30 minutes. Checked engine water temp gauge and it is normal.
The local mechanics found no spark when it failed at their garage. They replaced the ignition module on distributor. This did not fix the problem. In their second attempt they replaced the coil. Still the same problems persists and the mechanics are stumped.
It's like something in ignition package heats up after 10 minutes and either sticks open causing no spark or closes shorting out the spark if that is possible. What is causing this and how to fix it.
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Engine disengages and won't respond to accelerator after starting from a stop. Truck begins to move forward 20 to 100 ft then the engine loses all power and won't respond to the accelerator.
Tach drops all the way down and the truck stops. Sometimes anywhere from 10 to 30 seconds it will reengage, rpms up and start accelerating. Other times I have to shift into park then the engine reengages.
Usually occurs at slow speed in a parking lot, stop light etc but it has also happened accelerating on an on ramp to I12.
1) Dealer checked it and replaced a couple plugs and wire because the code showed one cylinder with occasional misfire. I told them This wasn't misfire.
2) problem continues. Dealer finds no codes and drives it 35 miles in a week wo occurring. It happens again next day to me.
3) Dealer puts diagnostic capture with red button to push when it occurs. Will hold data for four events. One occurs as I pull out onto the highway in front of dealership. Roll backwards down hill into dealership lot so auto transmission must be disengaged. Put in park and engine renegades. Happens again after 20 ft. Dealer finds no codes and all data appears normal.
4) dealer tech drives it do another week. 75 miles. Nothing. Take it home Friday and it happens Saturday pulling from a stop sign in the middle of the intersection. Pump with no response for ten seconds then both engine and transmission eventually reengage.
Happens hot or cold. I typically drive with a light touch because a fast candy apple red super crew with a loud exhaust tends to draw attention from those with badges! Leaving work in the evening is like playing frogger and I don't want to be road kill!
2011 f150 SCrew Platinum 5.0 v8 auto
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I have had a 2005 f150 v6 5 speed for a little over two years. Got about 153k on it. Last night was sitting in a parking lot idling about 20-25 minutes, went to leave and she started sputtering hard, lost all power and died. Started back up, idled fine, as soon as i put it in gear same thing then the check engine light came on.
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This morning on my drive into work I discovered that when trying to accelerate while moving at ~60mph or more the car would shudder and experience a lack of any power at all. If I continued to press down on the accelerator the car would continue to shudder and it would get worse. It felt like an engine stall shudder but constant. If I was below 60mph are tried to accelerate I had no problem, I could continue to accelerate all the way to 70mph, then I would have to slow down for traffic. However after cruising above 60mph and then pressing down on the accelerator I would experience the shuddering. I experienced this issue suddenly with no gradually increasing issues at all.
Car Details:
1993 Ford Escort Wagon LX 1.9L SEF I64K miles
Recently replaced oil, about 2wks ago
Air Filter fine and unobstructed
Car has been getting about 36mpg
Exhaust was replaced about 1 month ago and is unobstructed.
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus SE with DOHC that is losing power and sputtering when it gets hot after driving for 30 min or more. If I shut the car off and right back on going down the highway it will be fine for 5-10 min and then start sputtering again. If the car is not hot this does not happen and I have a new fuel filter and coil pack as those are the two main things that I could think of. I have seen intake valve seat and fuel pump as the two most common fixes with similar circumstances.
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