Ford - Escape :: 2004 V6 Misses / Bucks And Jumps - Multiple Check Engine Codes
May 28, 2014
This is a Ford Escape XLT with the 3.0L V6. I get the following codes - P0316 P0300 P0136 P0305 P0306. Sometimes it runs just fine and sometimes it misses and bucks and jumps. It has been taken to a local shop and they said they found a loose ground at the computer. They said they corrected this and it should run fine. It still shows the same codes and runs like it did before they worked on it.
View 10 Replies
Advertisement
I am running into some issues with my 2011 Escape 2.5L. I am pulling a total of 7 codes. Two codes keep repeating, which those are P0455 and P0457. And I am also getting a C1963. Accompanying the engine codes, my HUD is displaying "Check Fuel Inlet" when I first turn the vehicle on.
View 10 Replies
I have 2007 explorer 4.0 4x4. Check engine light and wrench symbol on with codes po743 po750 po755 po po765 po966 po966 po970. Feels like it is now stuck in 3rd gear.
View 2 Replies
My wifes 3V mountaineer has had a bad miss for a long time now. It seems fine until around 40-60 mph where it bucks and misses bad. I replaced all the plugs and it went away for a while but its back again. So far Ive replaced 3 of the coils with the accel coils but its just a shot in the dark really. Any easy way to check the coils or cylinder to see which one is truly the culprit?
View 9 Replies
I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
View 19 Replies
2000 Explorer 4.0 SOHC, 138K miles on it. Runs like new. Except this butt problem since mid November 2010 (2 months) First time this happened it sounded like someone smacked the rear end with a 10 pound maul. BOOM! Was in blizzard conditions. Does it in AWD or 4WD. No tire slippage when it happened or happens. Only happens when:
1. Snowing good or in blowing snow from car ahead of me.
2. Not while accelerating or coasting.
3. In overdrive (not sure when in just third gear).
Had rear end inspected at Ford dealer and no issue was found. Complete driveline given clean bill of health. Dealer did PM of new lube and did the transfer case and front end at the same time as it was due anyway. After this, it usually (but not always) starts as an engine miss feeling and works it's way up to the sudden and violent "BOOM" and then a mixture. Anyway, did it again. Changed plug wires. Did it again. Tranny shop test drove while snowing - no root cause but certain it's not the tranny. Saw B1352 code and said take it to the dealer. Justanswer.com FORDEXPERT guy says B1352 is most likely the X-fer case shift motor. Inspected and replaced shift motor as it had signs of near death and on borrowed time. Did it again. Ford dealer Tech test drove while snowing and freaked out when BOOM happened. He's certain it's ignition. NO CODES!!!
Cylinder #3 (mostly) and cylinder #1 (little bit) showed slight ignition issues on diagnostics. Pinched clip in boot so they were tighter on plug and plugs were inspected OK. Sprayed water mist on coil and it's OK. Did it again. NO CODES!!! 70K on plugs so installed new plugs and second set of new plug wires thinking that RH tire is kicking snow on #1/2/3 plugs and causing short. Did it again. Tonight, when driving the last 10 miles in light snow with bucking 6 times, thinking it might be snow ingestion, I checked filter housing and I see just traces of snow in housing and snow packed into filter pleats at just one corner about 2" triangle. Still plenty of clean filter area I feel. (NAPA brand) filter is 6 months old and looks quite good. After reassembly, I feel around seam of housing and discover front seam not tight. Aha! Perhaps snow is getting into combustion chamber. Pushed in housing bottom and "thump" now it's tight and proper. Battery terminals tight and super clean. Dit it again but just once in 8 miles and was slight engine miss feeling - no buck or kick.
Other possibilities (I'm thinking):
Injectors?
main power to coil?
Is there are snow/dirt screen missing on tube into filter housing?
View 6 Replies
A couple of weeks ago I got a check engine light. Pulling the codes I saw that it was a p0304 and sometimes a p0316. The first time this happened I check the spark plug cables and one was loose (cycylinder 4). Then last week my fuel pump died. since then I have gotten the two codes on a somewhat continous basis. I replaced the plugs (needed to anyway) and the problem did not go away.
The odd thing is that the check engine light does not come on at idle. IT only comes on after the motor is at a higher rev. The replaced plugs looked pretty normal, but the cylinder 4 plug had some carbon deposits. I am currently running injector cleaner in the gas. I may go ahead and replace the plug wires since the current ones are high mileage and it is not an expensive fix.
View 1 Replies
Three times recently my 2008 Touring Edition Prius has experienced a shutdown of the engine while driving. Each time I was able to coast and/or use battery power to get to a safe location. The “Triangle-of-Death” and the Check Engine Light was illuminated on the dashboard. Since my car is equipped with a scangauge, I was able to see the codes and clear them on the spot. After restarting the car, it showed no adverse reaction to shutting down and all was seemingly well until the next event. The codes listed below all seem to be communication lapses.
My question is; where do I start in my pursuit to diagnose and repair?
7/15/14 - 98,889 miles U0293 and U0100
7/23/14 - 99,414 miles U0293 and U0100
8/21/14 - 101,065 miles U0100 and U0000
View 18 Replies
I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
View 7 Replies
My 2001 Tacoma drives well most of the time, but when in 4 wheel drive low range, low gear, in demanding circumstances like heavy snow, it will buck, jump, act like the clutch is alternately and rapidly grabbing and releasing (but I'm pretty sure it's not actually that). Tires are good. Four cylinder, standard transmission.
View 7 Replies
I own a 2004 Ford Escape, auto, v6. I bought the car in 2007 and have had trouble with my check engine light ever since. It is usually on, but will turn off shortly after I wash it (then back on a week or so later). When mechanics test for the code, they say that my catalytic convertor needs to be replaced. In addition to the on/off strange behavior, I have been driving this car for 4 years now with no major mechanical trouble that I can only assume would result from not replacing the CC. This would be very expensive repair, one I am not interested in doing if this is possibly just an electrical problem. I am ready to get this problem solved and start driving check engine light free.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2005 F-150 W/ 5.4 triton, and am having multiple codes. They are:
P0172- System to rich(Bank 1),
P0174- System to lean(Bank 2),
P0300- Random misfire,
P0303- Cylinder # 3 misfire detected,
P0304- Cylinder #4 msfire detected.
View 2 Replies
Apparently yesterday (no known reason) my sons truck started to develop a miss (so it feels like to me).
2005 f150 5.4 auto 215000km 4x4 stx. No specific cylinder codes. All general codes.
P1000
P1464
P1550
P1703
P1780
None of which I can see causing the miss. No check engine lite, no other codes. Not sure what to look at next. I am starting to disconnect the coil packs one at a time and see if I can pin down the cylinder.
View 4 Replies
I have a 98 frontier 4 cil. 4x4 manual transmission. The CE light is on telling me that the evap system needs work. I replaced the purge canister valve and now the light wont go off at all. You can clear it all you want, as soon as the truck starts the light come back on.The truck also runs rough, bucks at certain RPMS has no power and bad gas mileage. Within the last two years I have replaced; catalytic converter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap & rotter, transmission and clutch, air filter, cleaned the MAF sensor.
View 11 Replies
I have an 05 F-150 Lariat 5.4 and it has been going haywire today. While driving if I hit a hard bump the power will cut off (radio, a/c) and even sometimes the truck. Check engine light came on and I pulled codes P2160 & P0506. Also, when it completely cuts off and I start it back up it says "engine in failsafe mode".
View 1 Replies
The red triangle warning on my dash recently came on so I am taking it to the nearest dealer on Monday. I think all of this is covered under recalls/warranty. Am I right?
View 4 Replies
I took my 2008 prius with 183,000 miles in last week to have recall work done on it. they did the following:
1. Accelerator pedal recall
2. Steering shaft recall
3. Hybrid Electric water pump recall
The following day when I start my prius my check engine light comes on so I figure it was something they did on the recall work. I do have a scangauge, and the only code that showed on it was a P1304. I took it back to dealer today, and was told that it had multiple EVAP codes, and that the canister on top of gas tank is bad, and will need to be replaced. They said it was full of gas. They asked me if I stopped fueling car when pump shut off? I told them I always go to next whole dollar. They said to always stop as soon as pump shuts off(but on some pumps they shut off like crazy when pumping gas), I told them to just clear codes, and I would get back with them if I decide to have canister changed. So far check engine light has stayed off ( dealer is about 100 miles away)
View 17 Replies
I bought my 2001 Jetty w/2.0 only yesterday. While I was looking under the hood this morning, I noticed there was no fans running while engine was going so I took a trip to local auto parts store. O'Reilly's hooked up my Jetty and told me there was four error codes but they weren't sure what they meant. Here are the codes: P0302, P0301, P1128,and P1580. I have no clue of what these errors mean. I am not familiar with Volkswagen at all and there are no volkswagen dealerships close.
View 3 Replies
I am having the above codes come up P0316 and PO305. The car is running rough...just started tonight. The check engine light started flashing but it's on continuously. Of course when I had the codes read at a Firestone they gave absolutely no support as to what it could be.
View 17 Replies
2004 Ford Escape 2WD 3.0L with about 81,000 miles.
Problem: 2 possibly related
1) If warm up (get to about 190+ degrees) and then cut off engine. Does not start. If I wait about 30 secs and play the gas pedal, then I can get it to start with high revs and after about 15 secs runs normally. Or, I can disconnect the air intake and it'll start fine. But if you stop and try to start again, no joy unless playing with gas pedal.
2) After driving about 20-25 mins, it seems to randomly stall-out while going about 40 mph. When it stalls out, it will restart again after about 30 secs.
Note: Neither of the above throw any codes.
Here's my problem chart after mining the other posts:
Thing to replace/do //// No Code /// Stall while driving /// Won't restart when hot
Fuel Pump //// Yes /// Yes /// Doubt it
Fuel Filter //// Yes /// Yes /// Don't think so
CKP Sensor //// Yes /// Yes /// Yes
CMP Sensor //// Unlikely /// ? /// Possibly
ECT //// Maybe? /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
IAC Valve //// Unlikely /// Yes /// No
Thermostat //// Yes /// Yes (if too hot) /// Yes
MAF sensor //// Unlikely /// No /// Yes
What I've done:
- Well, I started looking at the vacuum lines and they were crumbling so I replaced all those (to EGR and all that).
- There is a mystery line that appears to come up from the canister and go to nothing--is this some kind of atmospheric vent?
- My cheap scan tool also shows engine temps getting up to 216 degrees if I make it work (idle high at 2000+ rpm), so I'm suspicious of the cooling system and thinking maybe the ECU is shutting down to avoid overheating.
I'm going to start with flushing the coolant and replacing the ECT and thermostat while doing so. This is relatively inexpensive and ECT can do weird things. The restart problem is consistent, so I'll know if I fixed that right away.
View 2 Replies
The car was misfiring and the check engine light codes were all sensor coils were bad. Lexus told me that it was coil6 bad and they fixed it. I should have had no problems, I got a whole 2 miles and I misfired and engine light back on. I drove for a while and light went off and then misfired again. Before I bring it back in I was looking for some insight. I can't understand how it wasn't fixed right the first time but I don't want to go back and get a few thousand bill either. Could fixing one coil cause another to go bad.
View 1 Replies
