Ford - Escape :: 2004 - Slow To Start / Due To Cold Temperature?
Jan 26, 2015
In the past month or so, I have had 2 instances of my 04 Escape being stubborn on start up. Both times, the engine will crank when I turn the key, but won't start up. After a 5 or so seconds of unsuccessfully trying, I turn the key to the off position, wait a second or so, then try it again - without fail, the car starts right up (well, almost - usually takes a turn or so longer than usual, but nothing too concerning) and runs normally. I am hoping that this is simply cold weather-related.
Each time it has happened, we have been experiencing lower temperatures after a day or two of 30+ degree days. I have a job that allows me to carpool most days, so the car usually only gets driven once or twice a week (a little over 20 miles each day I drive it) - with the cold weather, and the fact that I just replaced the battery last month, I have been trying my best to start the car and let it warm up every few days to keep the battery somewhat charged. Again, this has only happened two times - both times have gone the exact same way. Is this related to the cold, or could I be seeing the beginnings of a more expensive issue?
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I have a 2006 Ford Escape Hybrid with about 150,000 miles.
It sometimes is lacking normal power - slow to start but fine once to full speed. When it is lacking power I notice that the gas engine is not shutting off when stopped at traffic signal like it normally does with charged batteries. It will be like this or a few days and then suddenly has its normal power and shuts of at traffic signals again.
Seems to be some failure of communication in the hybrid controls with system not telling the electric motor to do its thing. Where I should start looking for fix of this intermittent problem?
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I have a problem here which isn't funny around 30F. The engine temperature act quite normal after a cold start, but the heating inside is disabled somehow. So I can select any temperature in the front and back, but it stays cold.
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I am intrigued by this engine and it's cold start issues so I am trying things out to see what works. If I plug it in it starts like summertime. If it's as cold as 30* out I run the glow plugs for two minutes and it starts without much effort and once running purrs like a kitten, no chug a lug, no romping, little smoke. When it gets down into the 20's I run the glow plugs for two two minute cycles, a little more cranking time but starts same as above. Down to 18* and I cycle the glow plugs twice for two minutes and it cranks, tries to start but won't. Key off, back on for two more minutes and it starts right up like a warm summer day. It hasn't been colder than 18* here this year so this is the end of my report for now. I haven't taken the time to check the glow plugs which is on my list but this summer it'll get done.
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Yup, my truck randomly whistles while driving in cold temperatures. Its not life threatening or damaging to the truck, its been doing it for a few months not that its been getting below freezing. Its just REALLY annoying. I can even hear it over my radio at times, so its pretty dang loud outside of the truck. The noise originates from somewhere under the hood in the engine compartment.
Won't do it at lower speeds, usually on the freeway. Motors at about 2k rpm and im going roughly 65-70. Change the rpm when it whistles and it goes away. happens randomly from 50mph to 70mph engine speed from 1.8k to 2.5k rpm. I've tried to find it but can't find a darn thing since it won't make the noise while sitting in my driveway. What it might be?
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My power steering pump in my 05 Explorer 4.6L V8 is starting to howl it's displeasure on a cold start at near zero temperature. It doesn't do it when warm.
I thought I would change the fluid but the owners manual says to use Mercon ATF, but Ford now sells Mercon V as power steering fluid. It also warns not to mix the two kinds.
So, which one should I use? And, which way to change it, siphon pump the reservoir and replace with new a few times, or let the pump pump it out and replace as it goes?
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We just bought a 2013 ford escape and every morning when we turn on the ignition we hear a quick pop noise under the drivers side near the back (I think). Sometimes it happens if the car is sitting in a parking lot for a long time and then you start it. The same quick brief pop noise. Sounds like a popcorn pop. It happens when the car is cold. I cannot figure out if its something because the vehicle is running fine and its hard to prove to dealership. They said nothing to worry about because they could not hear it.
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My 2013 Ford Escape SEL makes a metallic, hollow POP noise upon a cold start. It sounds like it comes from underneath the driver's side - a little towards the back end. The noise is very brief - half a second and then it's gone. It will do this relatively consistently both when it's cold and when it's hot outside, but usually only after the vehicle has been turned off for at least 3 hours or so.
My dealership can't get it to make the noise and they've had it for almost a week now. Most days the car will make this noise with me in the morning, for my lunch break and again when I leave work. My luck they have it 5 days and the noise up and leaves.
In the meantime, I'm driving a 2013 Ford Escape SEL 'loaner' and the loaner car made the exact same noise!
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I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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I have a 2007 f150 with the 5.4 in it and today I was driving it and my tempreture gauge randomly shot to cold and check engine light came on. Also can't even find the dam radiator cap due to too much plastic!!!
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I have a 2002 f350 that has had cold starting issues since I bought it. I have replaced the glow plugs twice, the glow plug solenoid four times. When I put a new solenoid on it it works fine for a short time. I know the solenoids are bad because I get battery voltage on one side and nothing on the other. If I jump the solenoid with a jumper wire I can get the truck to start. I thought I was getting bad solenoids but I have recently tested the activation circuit and am getting constant power there. I.e. It never shuts off. I think this is what is causing the solenoids to burn up. From the tracing of wiring diagrams I have done, the only thing before the solenoid is the Pcm. So now to the question,
1) What controls the activation of the Glow plugs? Is there a temperature sensor or something before the Pcm.
2) Is this a case of my Pcm going out on me? I am a mechanic in the army so I have a decent understanding of mechanics.
However I am at a loss for these systems.
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2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
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I got a 2001 Escape XLT (V6) a couple of months ago. Its in great condition, only 82k miles on it too. It had the notorious door handle issues which I have had fixed. It also had the wet weather stuttering problem, which I had fixed by having all 6 spark plugs replaced (Motorcraft OEM plugs), the back 3 coils replaced, upper intake gaskets replaced, Valve cover gasket replaced, PCV valve replaced (motorcraft).
It runs great when its warm, the problem I am having is when its cold outside and the engine is cold, it starts up fine but idles like crap and if its really cold outside, it starts and dies 3 or 4 times before it can even get to the crappy, stuttering idle. I have to intermittently feed it gas to keep the cold idle going long enough (3 or 4 minutes) before I can drive it. Once the engine is warm it drives like a champ. The only warm engine issue, is occasionally after driving it and putting it in park, the engine will rev up to 2000, 3000+ rpms, and just keep going up until I shut the engine off.
The codes read P0171 and P0174, which are lean on bank 1 and bank 2. It had also thrown a misfire on cyl 6 but once I cleared that it hasn't come back, just the lean codes are still present.
From what Ive been reading, this can be a number of issues, ranging from the IAC valve, EGR valve, MAF or the lower intake gaskets. I'm very much a rookie when it comes to car mechanics, but I think I can handle changing the IAC, EGR and MAF since they are all on top of the engine. However I don't know if I could handle the lower intake gaskets. Ironically, the gaskets are the cheapest part, but the most labor if I paid someone else to do it.
If I replace the EGR, do I also need to replace the EGR Modulator as well? Looking for brand names that are best bang for the buck when it comes to these other parts I have mentioned?
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I have a 2004 2nd generation Toyota Harrier (Lexus model RX330). The A/C blowing hot air if temperature is not set to Max Cold. This happened no matter whether turn on the A/C with Auto or Manual setting. This case also happen no matter whether setting the A/C system to Dual mode or not, no matter whether turn on or off the air intake control button.
As long as A/C on, cold air only come out when temperature set to Max Cold, even if set to 18 degree, full hot air come out. Another thing is, say I have the A/C on, set to max cold, cold air came out from the front vent, but after I try to increase the temperature to say 18 degree, the hot air flow will change to Floor/Windshield mode.
Could it because due to the change of the battery? Is there anything need to reset after replacing the battery?
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I've owned this Toyota Camry 2004 LE for two years now and this issue started couple of weeks ago , I the tempreture gague is always at cold , mean less than 25% . where it used to be always in the middle and at the 50% right in the middle . heat still works , have not tried AC yet , it is still in the 20-30s here in Minnesota . I am suspecting maybe a thermostat or some other heating cooling sensor somewhere .
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I'm a bit concerned about my faithful old 1997 Honda Accord DX.
I noticed a particularly slow start a few weeks ago, so I went to Batteries and Bulbs for a quick check. The battery, which was a little over a year old, was already half dead. They swapped it out under partial warranty in case that was the cause.
This morning - same deal. It turned over 4-5 times with a particularly large squeal in the middle of the cranking, but it finally started. I drove it ten minutes and parked it at my normal mechanic (met a friend there to drive her to work, since her Honda has a check engine light on) and it cranked up immediately there. Turned over once, and fired right up.
The last time I thought I heard a funny noise on starting and took it to get checked out (and get an oil change at the same time), my mechanic swore everything was fine. In fact, he said "Your car is perfect." I'm concerned if I take it in without having some suggestions on what to check this time that I'll be dismissed as a car hypochondriac.
The car has 222K miles on it. Last tune up was around 200K miles, last timing belt change at 190K miles.
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ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
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I have a 2004 Escape, 4x4, V6 with 116k on it. Recently it won't start until it's sat for a few hours. I'll drive it for a couple of days without a problem and then it will refuse to start. The Battery is strong, the starter is trying to turn it over but it won't fire up. I've seen several other posts with Escapes having this same issue but none have given a resolution. I'm figuring it may be the fuel filter, the fuel pump, or the computer control.
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2002 Ford Escape XLS 5 Speed, My timing belt was just replaced along with the timing idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. It drove great yesterday but this morning when I was taking my son to school the engine started knocking. It does this idling and at slow speeds. Once driving the noise disappears. What this may be?
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06 5.4 screw. This truck sits in the garage all week long as I drive a work van daily. When I take the truck out on the weekends it starts up normally at the house and when I stop someplace for a few minutes it starts right back up but if it sits for an hour or more it will crank over for 10-15 seconds, it does always start back up. It always runs and drives fine, it is all factory as far as the motor, intake, exhaust, tuner etc. What to do with it.
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This has happened 3 times.
1st) pulled quickly over to side of road, shut off truck. It would not start then. Towed it to service station and it started the next morning (with no repair made). I wonder if tow ride dislodged the the blockage in fuel line(?). Always sounds like it's going to turn over, but like not getting fuel.
2nd) Went to leave work, truck wouldn't start. Towed to my mechanic and he replaced fuel pump. Thought it was fixed because it ran fine until just the other day.
3rd) Slowed down to complete stop in heavy traffic and it stalled. Would not restart. Again sounded like it was going to start but didn't seem to be getting fuel. Good samaratins pushed me off road. Had it towed to mechanic. Started the next morning without any repair or service. It's like the tow ride and bumps getting it off the tow truck dislodges what ever is blocking the fuel line.
My mechanic replaced the fuel pump, but I don't think her replaced the fuel filter.
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