Ford - Escape :: 2004 - Rough Idle At A Stoplight Like Going To Stall
Nov 24, 2012
Last week I had the plugs, coils, valve cover gasket and fuel filter done my 2004 Ford Escape when the engine started misfiring and today it started to idle rough at a stoplight and it seemed like it was going to stall but didn't. I had it sit for about an hour and a half and the it did want to turn over like the battery did have enough cold crank to it but it did after a couple of times. It has come and gone for the last couple of hours. No warning lights are one either. It seems pretty close to what it was doing when it was misfiring. What it may be?
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Let me describe this perplexing issue. I have a speratic rough idle problem. When it happens it's almost like the truck wants to stall. Once going the truck is fine. There has never been any acceleration issues, but for a short time the truck would kind of lunge off idle. It hasn't done that for quite some time. I've replaced the fuel filter. There are no vacuum leaks that I know of. I've tried higher octane fuel. I've tried injector cleaner for a month. What should the fuel pressure be and what is the test port located? Is the fuel pump in the tank? If so, whats that big log looking thing behind the gas tank that the fuel lines run to? Also, there are no MIL codes...
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My 04 F150 has started having a rough idle. While in park the engine will stall out with the A/C off. Also when in drive the truck will idle close to 1000rpm's. I had to the fuel filter cleaned and also the MAF sensor cleaned. Also did a vacuum check on it. Pulled the code and it's throwing a Lean Code. What else should I be looking for?
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My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
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Replaced the idle air solenoid and the car still vibrates in drive when at the light, etc.. Engine mounts were replaced though I am sure that isn't relevant. Anything I can look for?
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I tried searching and only found rough idle at startup, so here is my issue. At the same point in my AM drive, quite often I'll come to a stoplight and the motor will idle fairly roughly. If I switch to the "car" on the dash, it indicates the motor should be off. It is not charging the battery. Today it did it when I was only one bar from full battery. Also did it at the next light I came to.
This happens at the end of the commute. I've already covered 40+ mostly highway miles.
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We have a 1997 Saturn. For the past few months, whenever we're at a stoplight it suddenly fluctuates in RPMs, giving it a rough idle (going from 1000 down to 500 or so for a second or two, before coming back up to normal). It appears to be temperature sensitive (i.e. the longer the car runs or the hotter the outside temp, the more often this occurs). I sprayed the throttle body connection and vacuum connections to attempt to find a potential vacuum leak, with no effect. We've already had the transmission replaced, and haven't been having any other idle issues besides this. What else might be causing it.
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I just had my 04 5.4l engine rebuilt. Ive driven it about 500 mi and it started running rough at a stoplight. I tapped the accelerator and it started running good again but service engine light came on. I pulled the codes and they were P0022, PO345, P0340,and P0430. It has done this several times now. Everything was replaced including the phasers, except for the camshaft sensors. Could they cause this problem?
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I have a 2013 with the 3.7 in it with 24,000 miles on it. I bought the truck used with 8,000 on it was a pre-Owned certified and it already had a k&n air intake which I know it's not needed and I would much rather have the factory intake instead.. 7 months ago I took it to the dealer because I noticed at stop lights it idled rough sometimes almost feeling like it was going to stall out so I took it in and they said that the motor was getting to much air and causing it to run like it was and they said the cooler weather was making it worse and said it should get better when it warms up and they said it wouldn't hurt anything... Well I live in Florida and it's been in the 90s and it still idles like crap you can feel the vibration through the truck...
And it's so aggravating and annoying and I wish I had a stock intake that I could install on the truck to see if it fixes the problem but I don't and I've researched the problem and have seen people with the same issues without the k&n air intake and I've also been told that the stock air intake gives the motor just as much air as the k&n so with that being said did the dealer take the easy way out and blame the intake or should they be responsible for installing the factory intake back on since they made it a certified pre-owned with the k&n on the truck? It's been frustrating because I don't know a whole lot about gas motors.. And I'd like to get the problem fixed while I still have warranty ..
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My truck is a 1995 Explorer 4.0 150,000 miles, 5 speed.
Problem - Rough idle : when cold it's worse and will stall and choke a little. When warmed up it just has a rough idle but will not stall and stays at a pretty constant RPM. It's very tolerable when warmed up but still not right. It drives fine once off idle. No black smoke that I can see. Power may be just a little off but I would not bet on it. MPG seems about normal but haven't been on a long enough trip since problem started to tell for sure. Also longer than normal cranking on occasion.
Diagnostics so far : Fuel pressure is at 32 PSI, vacuum off regulator it's at 40 PSI. Not sure about key on only as I don't trust the autozone loaner gauges. You have to fiddle with it each time before it will read. Leak down after 30 minutes was about 4 PSI
No Check engine light ever. KOEO test shows no hard or on demand codes, I get the 111 pass. From CM I get 336 and 45.
336 is EGR related and my looks pretty rusty. I put a vacuum pump on it while running and the EGR held vacuum but had no effect at all on idle, I was expecting it to get worse as I opened the EGR so it may be stuck.
Searched high and low for vacuum leaks by ear, visual and with starting fluid all turned up nothing.
Actions so far : Replaced plugs, wires, IAC, and fuel filter. Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body plus ran lucas fuel injector cleaner through it.
Next steps : I've got the EGR but it's so rusty I am sure I'll break the tube it bolts to plus I don't know it that alone will cause the rough idle. Will the DPFE sensor and/or EVR create a rough idle yet not turn on the CEL?
Thought about changing the fuel pump and/or regulator but the numbers are not terrible. Agree?
Thought about changing the intake gaskets but don't see any leaks.
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I have an 87 ranger, 2.3 4cyl. 2wd 5 speed. When I start up the truck after it sits for a few hours it will idle fine but then it starts to bog down and wants to stall but after about 5 mins its fine and runs like a champ. I don't know if its a sensor or what.
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
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My car started a rough idle last night.... Pull to stop light, in gear, a/c on #1 and car shudders and acts like it's going to stall..... Went away as I drove a round a bit.....back this a.m. (after the warm up program ran) drove it a bit and was sporadic.....and even went away...then came back.....
Its worse when car is at stop and in 'D'.....little better with a/c off and/or in neutral......it finally threw the CEL today....... I had the fuel pump recall done about a month or two ago, car has 36k+ on it...... Anything I should have the service dept look for aside from what the fault codes might read?
[URL] .....
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So this morning when I went to start my car for work, it wouldn't idle and was misfiring badly, also has a very loud noise coming from the valve cover. The car has under 40k miles on it and is CPO, so it'll be towing it to the dealership today to get check out. The car ran fine on friday when i parked it.
Here is a vagcom scan I did this morning also.
Monday,25,August,2014,06:03:51:26742
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator
VCDS Version: 12.12.2.0 (x64)
Data version: 20140212
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261 License Plate:
Chassis Type: AJ (7N0)
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 25 2E 37 42 44 46 52 55 56 62 72 77
VIN: WVWHD7AJ2BW201261
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] .....
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I have a 87 ranger with a 2.9 and recently it started to act up when i start after its been sitting for a couple hours it has a rough rolling idle and will stall out and a lot of white smoke out the tail pipe and some times a tiny bit of black smoke when revved high....after a about 10 mins of feathering the gas it will even out and runs no problem.... oh and quite a bit of moister comes the tail pipe....and this issue just occurred over night every time before never had an issue like this...
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I have a 2001 Ford Escape, and when I start it for the first time of the day, it idles really rough, and way below 500RPMs (to the point where it almost stalls). After about 10 minutes, when the car is all warmed up, it runs smoothly, as if there was nothing wrong with it. The only conclusion I can draw is that it is temperature related, but I can't figure out exactly what is causing the issue. This happens on the driest or wettest of days, so moisture doesn't seem to be an issue.
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My 2001 toyota camry is great but has an intermittent, annoying problem no one can diagnose or correct. If I drive for a while at top highway speed (say 65mph) and then have to come to a stop (to pay toll or stop light) I get a very rough idle and then the car stalls. Have had new plugs, wires, coil, radiator already done to solve problem. Check engine light never comes on. Can also drive lengthy trip and it doesn't happen.
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My wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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When I start my S60, it runs extremely rough and will eventually stall. I do this over and over . . try and put it in gear and it will go a bit, run very rough, and will stall out. After a few minutes, something kicks in and it runs perfectly. If I don't try to drive, and sit with it idling, it runs very rough and I have a difficult time getting the rpms up. Then, the engine will suddenly race for a bit and everything is fine. It is very periodic in nature, doesn't matter if the engine is cold or not. It can sit over night and be fine, or do it, I can run around all day without problems and then suddenly it decides not to start up and run. The temperature outside doesn't seem to be a factor.
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1993 Nissan Maxima. Great little car except when engine gets warmed up it begins to run rough and dies. At idle, when accelerating, while maintaining speed. Since its a manual it is a simple matter of dropping into neutral and it fires right up again... no problem. Then stall repeats. Went through routine steps checking plugs, filters, wires, sensors etc.. The O2 sensor (only one) is gone - as is the converter. At some point someone replaced it with a straight pipe.
After not finding a obvious answer, I began to ask around (auto-part stores, neighbors, some patrons at the saloon). Conclusion... OBD failure causing a "kill" routine which shuts off the engine. When I restart, it resets. Once it fails to enter a static state (engine is warm) it kills again. I replaced the computer with a used one "known" to operate (so the e-bay seller said) Installed it and bingo, car ran like a top for 15 full minutes - best ever. Then after 15 minutes or so, suddenly began to run rough and stalled twice before I got back home. I runs now just as before (but oh those glorious 15 minutes).
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