Ford Escape :: 2004 - Burning Smell When Idling At A Stop Light
Jan 22, 2014
So every once in a while, probably a dozen times, over the winter I am idling at a stop light and smell a bad burning smell. It doesn't matter if I have my heat on, or if I switch the temp all the way to cold. It smells like burning rubber or plastic. So far there doesn't seem to be a common factor involved. Doesn't matter the temp outside or how long I have been driving the car. Haven't noticed a loss in fluids, no puddles under my car. And it's not a sweet antifreeze smell.
2004 Ford Escape
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Getting a fuel smell especially when 2004 3.0 escape is idling. Is there a replaceable evap filter or maybe the pcv valve?
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I have a 2004 Turbo Forester. It's been maintained since purchased new at the same dealer with oil changes every 3500 miles or so and all the "big" required/recommended maintenance every 15000 miles. After the 75000 mile check, I kept smelling a burning oil smell, especially when car was idling. I had it back to the dealer several times but they couldn't find anything wrong. The car did not seem to be using excess oil, there were no "puddles" under the car where it was parked. Today I brought the car in for routine oil change (78400 miles). On the way in, started smelling the burning smell again and saw smoke around the turbo charger.
The mechanic saw "Moisture" (oil?) around a lower bolt on the heat shield around the turbo charger. He said it was likely a failing turbo charger causing oil to leak on making that bolt wet? The engine is not making any noise, nor is the turbocharger, and there was no "check engine light" illuminated. I'm scared now to take the care elsewhere for a second opinion...don't really want to drive it and trash the engine. It's out of warranty now, and this is a painfully expensive fix that couldn't have come at a worse time on a car that's been maintained "by the book". I'm reading a lot about this "banjo bolt screen" problem. Would that be something to find out about on a 2004 Forester? Is there anything else that could be causing the problem (mechanic couldn't think of anything).
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Whenever the temperature is below 20 degrees F and am idling at a stop light, if I have the heater fan running I get a horrible exhaust smell inside my car. I have discovered that I can lessen the bad smell by turning off the fans when the car is idling and then turning it back on when I start to drive.
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'05 1.8T with 30K miles: Sometimes, when the car is stopped and idling, an oil burning kind of smell comes in through the ventilation system. I can also smell it outside. I had the dealer (a good one) check it out. Couldn't find anything. No sign of leakage anywhere. Where I or they should be looking? When I open the hood during these smell events, I can't see any smoke or tell exactly where it's coming from. It seems to be around the driver's side of the engine, but all the heat is on the other side around the exhaust and turbo. Weird. It's really starting to annoy me.
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I have noticed an oil burning smell when i come to a stop. Its been getting worse. I just replaced my valve cover gaskets. With new spark plugs also. Any way after I completed the job, I let the car run for a few minutes and seemed like i could still smell the burning smell. May be its just because it all needs to burn off the heat shields, but I thought I saw some oil accumulating on the bottom side of the v.v.t solenoid on the front of the valve cover. Is that a separate cover? Doesn't seem to be a gasket there. Do these v.v.t covers leak a lot?
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey. A few day ago I noticed a weird smell, sort of like burning chemicals, only after driving the 25 miles to work and later that day the same. Drove it over the weekend around town with no problems. Just to be safe, took it to my trusted local mechanic on Monday...he could find no problems except black walnut debris from critters. Drove it to work Tuesday, no problems there. On way home at stop sign, hit the gas to go forward and car wouldn't go forward. Luckily I was going downhill and could pull over.
Tow truck driver was able to drive it up flatbed and brought it to shop. Mechanic said transmission fluid was dark and flush/changed it three times. It is driving absolutely fine with no problems(to the surprise of my mechanic) though mechanic said transmission life may be limited. I am now afraid to drive my car as I commute to work and have three children. It has 106,000 miles and always has been maintained on schedule. The transmission fluid was flushed last year for the first time at around 95,000 miles as recommended by mechanic.
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So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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I have an 04 f250 with a 5.4 I smelled something like burning and the truck shut down. the fuse panel was warm. after a min or so it starts back up never know how far till it stalls again.
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I don't drive (aren't you lucky?) but my wife and I own a '95 Ford Windstar and last summer we had issues with coolant leaking and had to have a few head gaskets replaced. Now, when we're idling at a stop light or sign, the oil light goes on but as soon as we accelerate, it goes off. The manual says the light indicated either low fluids (which isn't the case) or that the pressure within the system is low. The vehicle seems to run fine otherwise but I'm wondering if the oil light gauge has been set too sensitive?
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2004 V6 XLE Power Steering Leak *pics* ... The problem now? Car doesn't start. I've done all the 'usual' checks and I am totally baffled.
So I was dropping my friends off at night. When I had the car in reverse to get out of the parking spot, turned off my AC and drove to park my car on the road. My ears heard something 'different' from my engine, like a 'wurrrrr' noise. I first thought it was my power steering pump was making noise (see my previous thread why). I pulled on the side of the road this is what happened.
I open my hood to determined my fluid for PS was OK. I noticed a 'burning' smell like something rubber was burning or metal getting super hot. I turned my car off and restarted the engine. The car cranked but it crank very slowly, lights dim and it started almost like a weak battery. Maybe battery? The 'wurrr'/buzz noise was coming from the belts area and was RPM related. Car did rev fine without any hesitation. [URL] ....
As I had the car on for a minute to take a video (below), I was in my car when I noticed light smoke coming from the right side (drive belt) area. I immediately turned off my car and attempted to see where the smoke was coming from.
After 10 minutes, I wanted to see if it would still start. Nope. Just rapid clicking of starter (See : [URL] ....)
It was dark so I couldn't do much (iPhone w/ flash light app), but I did check all what I could above and below the engine. I didn't see any burn wires or grounding either. So I was thinking...
-If AC or Alternator seized up/locked up, the car would still start but belts would burn, right? Same with power steering?
-Timing belt torn or tensioner sized? If belt torn, engine would crank freely though? Tensioner would usually just make a bad noise, right? Wouldn't really account for the 'weak' starting prior I think?
-Electrical problem such as a short within alternator/ac compressor....
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My ABS light stayed on after driving home in slippery conditions last night. I also noticed a burning smell when I parked in the garage.
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the car's battery light still has not shut off and now the defrost button stays on for about one second. The engine bay sometimes smells of something burning, too.
No CEL, so what's going on here?
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Burning oil smell but can't figure out where or why.
No Drips (checked standing on dry ground).
No Drips (checked after spraying water down on ground).
Checked Oil, level doesn't change.
Checked Transmission, level doesn't change.
Only thing that has changed is that i went with a 5w-40 oil about 4000km ago. Could it be burning minute amounts of oil during driving under hard conditions (mountains/hills)?
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Had this problem yesterday and drove my car home about 3 miles running very rough and very sluggish! I could smell something like burnt oil or rubber when I stop but not too bad_no smoke. We are at a ski resort and will have to drive our vehicle about 70 miles to nearest vw repair shop. Is it ok to drive my passat with this rough condition? I am guessing ignition coil or spark plugs.
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Car Details : 2004 Mazda 6 V6 3.0 L engine automatic transmission with 88,000 miles
Car Problem Vignette : After driving for a bit, say 20-30 mins (after my engine gets hot), I start to smell a burning oil smell. I’ve looked under the hood at my engine and do notice some oil leaking from the engine. This is not just some simple oil leaking after an oil change. The oil appears to be coming out of the engine "seams" itself. This has persisted for some time now. This problem started at least a year and a half ago now (12/05/12). I’ve had a mechanic take a look at the oil leak and supposedly he fixed the head gasket or valve cover gasket (I’m not sure which one), but the problem never fully resolved.
In a related or unrelated situation (I’m not sure yet if it is related) during this time my car started to jerk and sputter when I drove, so much so that I wasn’t sure it was going to make it to work one morning. The check engine light came on and I eventually made it to work and back home that day. It gave me a code that said one of my cylinders was misfiring. I proceeded to change all of my spark plugs to no avail. I then changed out one of my ignition coils to the bad cylinder misfire. It fixed my problems with the stuttering and I could drive my car again without fear of stalling. However, I still smelled burning oil. Over time I eventually started to feel my car struggle to take off during acceleration which felt different from when my car seemed like it was going to jerk and sputter to a stall. During this time frame one day I was at a stop light and when I went to take off, a huge plume of bluish / white smoke came out the exhaust and I smoke-screened the people behind me. After that incident, I ended up changing my positive crankcase valve (PCV). After changing my PCV my car felt like brand-new again! I could not believe it! My car started accelerating smoothly and driving so much better. I felt like I had gotten the “Zoom Zoom” back for my Mazda.
Sadly this didn’t last long, maybe a month at the most. My car started struggling during acceleration again and I started smelling burning oil again. I have dealt with this for over a year now. My car still runs and gets me around, but I can’t remember the last time that my car ran smoothly or didn’t smell like burning oil except for that time I changed the PCV. I have never seen any kind of smoke coming out of my exhaust again like that one experience.
Problems:
•Burning oil smell coming from my engine due to leaking oil coming out the "seams" of the engine
•Car is struggling when accelerating especially at lower gears
•I feel it every so often when I accelerate somewhere between 2nd and 3rd gear that the car jerks and makes this “chunk” type sound and feeling when it shifts gears.
Questions:What is wrong with my car? Are all these situations related? And what do I need to do to stop the oil leak and acceleration problem?
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History: 2005 Prius has 130,000 miles and was rear ended in mid November (less than 2 months ago) on drivers side rear.
Yesterday my husband was driving at 65 MPH when all the lights on the dash all lit up for a second before the entire car died. The car was DEAD, wouldn't do anything except the lights worked (I'm assuming cause it's the starter battery). Ran hazards for approx an hour waiting on tow truck but the rear left light only flashed approx 1 in 10 times compared with the rear right light. Car had a terrible burned smell.
1.5 hours later the tow truck shows up and says "your car smells terrible". We towed it to Toyota Dealership.
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So I've always been aware of my slight oil leak on my 2003 Hyundai Accent. But it wasn't until I took it to Firestone for a discount oil change that it started getting worse and began to actually smell of burning oil while driving. I've checked the obvious places (ie the oil pan bolt and the newly installed oil filter) and I've determined it's definitely coming from higher up in the engine. Also, when putting cardboard underneath, you can see that it drips from right behind the engine. I figure it is probably that seal that costs but loads of money in labor to replace but when checking it today I noticed that the oil SEEMS to be in the top part of the engine dripping down. I'm attaching pictures of the one spot in particular that appears wet with oil. I'm not sure what it is but I believe it is next to the injectors.
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I have a 2003 Mercury Sable. There is a burning smell/fumes whenever I am stopped at a light or put the car in park. The smell comes from the drivers side but I don't smell anything when I am moving. What could be causing this?
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A strange thing happened today. I was the first car stopped at a light on a slight incline and decided I wanted to take my foot off the brake. The incline was not quite great enough to keep the car from slightly inching forward so I set the emergency brake. This light is pretty long, at least 2-3 minutes. About halfway through this wait, I started smelling a burning smell, almost like burning wires. I'm not entirely sure it was actually my car because my windows were down but the smell was quite strong inside my car and started dissipating after releasing the emergency brake and putting the tranny in neutral. So, my question is, is there anything bad about what I did? Setting the emergency brake while in drive should be no different than having the hydraulic brakes holding the car at a light, so I don't see how the tranny was being stressed or the brakes since the car wasn't moving. Nothing else was on in my car, not the vent fan nor the radio. So was this just a coincidence or was I harming something?
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Ok my R is all stock 59k miles. This morning I was getting on the freeway and some AMG hold was on my ass so I floored it and accidentally hit the rev limiter. After that It smelt almost like burnt rubber in the car. I rolled the windows down and the smell went away in about ten min. I didn't lose any power and no check engine light came on. When I got to work I got out and looked under, no fluids leaking. But the smell was still there. I'm gonna look at it more after I get home from work.
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