2004 Ford Escape air conditioner works GREAT when sitting idle. Air conditioner blows HOT air while driving. Seems like the faster I go or the more load on the engine the hotter it blows. Weird?
View 2 RepliesOk, so I've got a little of an odd issue. It seems that no matter what I do, the AC is always active. Today I reverse flushed the heater core in my 02 Escape, and verified all hoses were clear. I replaced the thermostat housing (other thread) along with a new thermostat.
But, when I run the car, even with the heat full up and the selector set to the defroster and floor, the ac still blows ICE cold. It seems like it is still engaged no matter what. Winter is coming and I dont want my daughter to freeze (her truck).
I have a 2008 Ford Escape XLS (4 cylinder) that currently is having an issue with the AC system. It blows the air at the correct temp but it only comes out of the primary vents. If i select defroster or floor vents, it doesn't switch over to those. What specifically should I be looking at to fix it.
View 8 RepliesThe ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 7 RepliesThe ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
View 1 RepliesI have 1999 f350 Powerstroke the Ac compressor,accumulator and orfice tube were recently changed. Now the Ac only blows cold while I'm driving my truck when it's at an idle it starts blowing warm almost immediately. I had it looked at again they changed the blower motor and vacumn pump but the problem is still there...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 f250 xlt with the 5.4l engine in it and lately my AC hasn't been standing up to the heat of the Midwest. When driving around town or on the highway my AC blows really cold but at idle you can tell a drop off in temp. Is this normal due to extreme heat or is there something I can do?
View 12 Repliesmy 2010 Escape 89K miles. It will all of a sudden (at various speeds) stop getting fuel. I have to pull over...once i get close to a complete stop it lurches a bit, I put it in park and kill the engine - wait a minute and it starts back up. Initially thought i had water in tank (capless tank) 1st time it happened immediately after a carwash. So I added an additive to clean the fuel tank. Did it again after about 5 days. I cannot find a pattern (speed, fuel tank level) etc to this.
View 3 RepliesIn December, I took my 2001 Ford Escape (123,000 miles) to my mechanic to find the source of a burning odor that I'd been smelling after driving. My engine light had also gone on several times and the engine ran rough, especially after very wet weather. They attributed the engine light to a cylinder 4 misfire, and the smell to oil leaking from my valve cover gasket. They strongly recommended, due to the proximity of my coils and spark plugs to the valve cover gasket, that I have my (still original) spark plugs and coils replaced in all 6 cylinders.
Considering that one coil had already been causing problems, they said that it would save labor to do them while they were so close in proximity. Considering the age and mileage of my car, the fact that I'd like to keep it for a couple of years, and the fact that this is a trusted mechanic, I took their advice. I had all of these repairs done to the tune of 1800.
Following this repair, I still smelled the burning odor. I gave it a couple of weeks, thinking this may be recently-leaked oil burning off, and then brought it back to my mechanic. They could not easily identify the location of the leak, so they injected dye, and I returned a few days later.
Now I'm being told that the oil leak is from my timing cover gasket. In addition to that, they say that the oil pan gasket will need replacement, because of its proximity to the timing case. My valve cover will also have to be removed and possibly replaced, but they said that they can possibly reuse it since it was just replaced in December. There was some discussion of replacing the timing chain while they were in the case. As an aside, I have had no indication that my timing chain has any issues.
I just got this 2001 Escape with 3.0. After driving just a few miles the low coolant light will come on. It is off when starting again and same pattern. Has plenty of coolant and is over the high mark but dont think that would be sensed. Need to remove mounting bolts to move jug enough to unplug and replug the harness connector and see if that cures the problem.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 xlt with a 3.0. In the little over 2 years I've had it, most notably in the past year, I have replaced the front driver side ABS sensor 8 times. This is getting extremely cost, and outrageous. Every month or so, the ABS light comes on and the ABS starts locking up when I am driving it. Every time it does it, I have to take it back to the shop for diagnostics, at a rate of nearly 300 a pop. As you can see, the bill for this one damn sensor has become outrageous.
Every time, the same fault code comes up. Drivers front ABS sensor. Putting on a new sensor fixes it, every time, but only temporarily. I have had the tone ring replaced just to make sure that wasn't it, and every single time it's always been the sensor itself.
I have tried various brands, including a couple of OEM a pop to make sure it wasn't just lower quality parts, and I have the exact same result every time. I have noticed it seems to do it most notably during extremely wet conditions, or heavy snow, although a couple of the times it started acting up in the heat of summer. I have even attempted cleaning the abs sensor to make sure it wasn't just dirty, to no avail.
As I mentioned, only replacing the sensor makes the issue go away, and when I am driving the abs system engages at random times if I leave the light on for too long without fixing the abs light.
When I took my 2004 Expedition to the Ford dealership they said everything looked fine and they couldn't recreate the problem because they are not allowed to go over the speed limit. Here is the issue:
If I drive on the highway over 70 mph for a good amount of time, eventually I can hear the air blow heavily behind the dash board (passenger side front corner) but barely any air blows out the vents. In order to correct the problem I have to stop or slow down below 60 mph. I've tried every combination possible of turning off the unit, turning on the heater, switching from auto to floor, back to auto without any success.
However, occasionally if I go over 70 for a long period of time and deal with the issue until I get to my destination, on a few occasions when I've stopped i can something drop like the a/c vent got stuck behind the dash. Very weird issue and a long trip over this past weekend was very unpleasant and I'm thinking about getting a new car because I can't take this issue any longer.
About a block and a half from the house, it died while driving. Had heard some noise coming from rear drivers side maybe 20 minutes prior, and assumed it was the fuel pump.
So, I have put a new fuel pump, filter, and relay. Will crank, but not turn over. Next step was carburetor fluid in throttle while starting, still wouldn't turn over.
2001 Escape 6 cyl...
2001 Escape 4x4, automatic trans 4x4
Getting a pretty loud "whirring" or humming noise from under the car while driving 30+ mph. It seems like a wheel bearing noise, but coming from directly under the center console area. My thoughts are either the driveshaft center support or the transfer case, I can't find much on it though.
2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
View 2 RepliesThe heater in my car only blows hot air when I'm driving fast. At stop signs it blows cold. You can imagine how this affects my driving strategy. What the problem might be?
View 5 RepliesHaving difficulties with an air conditioner. 2006 KR F150. The air blows, but not cold. I just had everything checked in regards to pressures, freon, etc., but still only blows ambient temperatures.
View 3 RepliesMy 2005 Ford Escape's alarm goes off intermittently throughout the day and night. This usually occurs after the door ajar light comes on while I'm driving. All doors are secure and I've even replaced the latch assemblies on the driver's door and rear hatch (these are the most used doors). There must be something in this circuit that is causing this to happen. It is frustrating having the alarm go off in the middle of the night when there are no obvious intruders. How can I resolve this issue without replacing any more latches or spending a large amount on diagnostic tools from Ford?
View 9 RepliesMy wheel bearing in the rear went..as its roaring when driving and shop told me wheel bearing needs replaced. I am a bit handy. Is it a big job to change a rear wheel bearing on a 2002 ford escape 3 litre. What tools would I need...don't need a press for wheel bearing on this model, not sure....
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Ford Escape Limited with 3.0L. When Idling the Battery Light will turn on and stay on and when driving above 45Mph the light will turn off and then turn back on several miles down the road. After taking the car to Autozone and having the Alternator and Battery checked, I was told that the Voltage Regulator was bad and that I had to replace the Alternator due to the Voltage Regulator is not a serviceable part. After replacing the Alternator the battery and charging system is reading 13.86v (steadily) and when idling for about 5 minutes the Battery Light will come back on. I drive about 200 miles daily and do not want to get stranded... What else could be the problem?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 XLS, 2.3L Auto/AWD. About a month ago it quit running while driving, just shut off. When I tried to restart the dash made clicking noises, fuel pump grunt type noises, cluster stays in drive position even though floor shifter indicates I'm in park. Pulled a code P0606, replaced PCM. It started and ran for 20 minutes, made it about 1/4 mile up the road, shut off again. Now I can't pull a code, dash indicates I'm in drive while vehicle is in park, same noises etc.
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