My car is almost turning on. It goes all the way but then just doesn't start. The fuel pump is working, can hear it. We checked for spark and there is. we sprayed that carburetor or whatever it is in the air intake thing too and it still didn't start. My buddy is saying that it has to be a sensor. Either O2 or crankshaft something sensor.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2001 ford escape V6 3.0l. Dropped a new motor in it, got everything running fine. Surprisingly the most frustrating part was when we mixed up the order of the front 3 coils but we got it!
It drove "ok" for a week and a half. Then it started to shudder at 45-55 mph. Got it home that afternoon and started to diagnose why it would shudder. Suspect its not shifting right.We started to diagnose what was wrong, made some adjustments to IAC, MAF and checked a few other things. We then went to test drive, started up fine, drove up the driveway 50' and it died. It didnt sputter and die, it just lost all power and died.
Got it back in the garage and tried to get it started again. Turned Key... nothing. Dash lit up but starter and fuel pump didnt fire. Odometer reads ------. I can jump the starter by pulling the starter relay. Same for the fuel pump. I use a jumper wire between two pins and I can get the starter to crank and the fuel pump runs when I jumper wire the relay too. So I know its not a bad starter nor a bad fuel pump.
Odd part of everything is that It drove just fine that day (other than shuddering). Then started just fine, then died. When it died we were making a sharp left turn in the driveway. We've messed with the steering wheel because it was "accidentally" put upside down when we dropped in the new engine. Could something have grounded out in the steering wheel? Air Bag? Maybe a problem in the clock spring? What would stop it from The fuel, starter and spark all at the same time? Bad PCM? Grounding issues?
01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
View 14 RepliesNew to this site, my problem is on my 2003 4.6L fuel pump not working.My problem is that I am not getting voltage to contacts on pcm and fuel pump relays.
Getting volts to #30 fuse 30amps ok, voltage to pcm diode ok. Voltage on #30 on both relays(pcm & fuel) but I am loosing voltage across coils contacts #85 & #86, these makes hot #30 & #87 to make pump work. Inertia sw ok, Don't know if PCM is bad, ck fuse #2 ok 5 amps.
Got this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
A friend has 2005 escape 3l. He called me yesterday saying that he needed replacing his fuel pump.
Before I got to his place he had already replaced the fuel filter...
We got the pump replaced, and when we went to start the vehicle, it still wouldn't start.
We double checked to make sure everything was connected and plugged in and it was. We checked all fuses, and they were all good.
This morning I am going to try jumping the relay and see if that does anything. What else to check?
How do you test the fuel pump regulator, the truck wont start. I tested the schrader valve and it does have pressure but didn't seem like much. (need a gauge) I replaced fuel pump a few years ago so was wondering about the regulator. Is there a test procedure?
View 7 RepliesI own a 2003 Limited with the 6.8 V10. I drove the truck on Sunday and all appeared to be fine, gas gauge was setting just under a half tank. When I went to start it yesterday, it would not start. Strong crank, no start. I checked my fuse and it was fine. Fast forward to this morning, since I had kind of depleted the battery with attempting to start, I put my little jump start pack on it and gave it a whirl. Truck started fine but the gas gauge was sitting on empty. I had five gallons of gas in the garage so I added that to the tank then drove to the local gas station to add more fuel. I put another 10 gallons in the tank so it should have roughly 16 or 17 gallons in the tank. Gauge shows 3/4 tank but miles to empty is right around 175 miles which would seem right with 17 gallons in the tank. I suspect the fuel pump. I don't really want to spend $500 on the Motorcraft unit but was wondering if the group believes the Delphi or the Bosch units are quality replacement parts?
View 7 RepliesDrove for 25 miles. Park, try to restart to park truck at other place. Truck start but very rough. Did drive for 20 yards and truck stop. Try to restart no way. I think I do not hear fuel pump when I turn key and gas pedal fill completely empty, no any force to move it. Should I assume fuel pump or should check some sensors first? I have P0420 for a few weeks, not source of this problem. Drove truck before with P0420 for years. No other code. Do we have PATS in keys? My truck is f250 99 LD. My pickup have PATS. How to check it?
View 5 Replies2000 Mustang was running fine. It hasn't been driven in a couple of days, and now wont start. No noise in the tank, fuel pump not working. But when you spray gas into the throttle body it wont even try to hit. Fuses under the hood beside the battery are all good. Inerta switch is down and in place. Am I missing something? maybe a relay? I would just think no matter what, getting fuel into the opening of the throttle would cause the car to at least cough.
View 5 Replies1999 4.6L won't start after sitting a month. Ran fine before, now won't start. Cranks fine. Cannot hear fuel pump turn on when key is turned. Fuel pump fuse is good.
Fuel pump relay clicks a few times when key is turned. Is this normal? I am hoping it is the relay and not the pump. What should I check next? The wires at the pump? What should they read?
I just got delivered a 7.3L from down south. Batteries were dead so replaced both. Fuel was a couple notches above red line (much closer to red line than 1/4 tank) so I added about 7-8 gallons.
It will crank forever and ever...Won't start.
With starter fluid it starts but not strong enough to pump the pedal and rev it up to keep it idling.
I know s-fluid is bad but if I continuously spray with key turned forward it will run but as soon as I let go of key it shuts off.
20 degree weather and it was delivered to a parking lot so I cannot plug it in.
Was told to check filter cap, turn key, and see if it fills bowl with fuel....if not then it is fuel pump. Someone else mentioned that it could be bad crank position sensor? Does this sound like fuel pump?
ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
View 19 RepliesMy 2003 Passat 1.8t starts up but turns off 1-2 secs later. And if it is the fuel pump, where is it on my car?
View 4 Replies 2 questions regarding my 2005 Mariner 3.0L, as follows:
1. After a cold start (in the garage, so not freezing cold) the water pump belt - not the serpentine belt - squeaks for 15 - 20 seconds; ambient temperature doesn't matter. I had put a new belt on about a year ago, then this began 6 or so months later. Thinking I may have a defective belt, I replaced it again about 3 months ago, but the squeaking has continued - starting immediately after the replacement. My analysis is that the water pump bearing is going south. I've noticed that it is taking a little longer for the squeak to go away in the past few weeks, so it's probably getting worse, altho no leaks at this point. So the question is, so any other reason this is happening?
2. Assuming I do need to replace the WP, I bought a new one from the local parts house. I have a shop manual for the car, which tells me to remove the thermostat housing, hose connection to the WP, etc., and then remove the WP by removing just 3 bolts. However, the replacement part is just the front of the housing with the impeller and pulley included, so there are a half-dozen or so bolts that hold this new part onto the WP housing. So, doing this change-out? Will the front of the WP housing come off by itself without disconnecting the hose, etc., or do I first have to remove the whole WP and then take it apart to replace the impeller and front cover? I can't really tell from the pic in the shop manual, and it doesn't address dis-assembly of the WP.
Also, I'd like to just remove the belt w/o cutting it and having to buy a new one. Can I do this by just loosening the WP bolts? (I know how to re-install, obviously.)
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesFuel pump in my Volvo 940 has been replaced twice. Since then, my fuel gauge has not worked right and I have had to pump gas about every 120 miles so that the fuel pump would work right. I would fill the tank, and 120 miles (about 5 gallons) later the fuel gauge would indicate about 1/4 tank of gas left. That's when the fuel pump begins to mis-behave. If I make a sharp turn, it would stopped pumping for about 2-3 seconds. If I continue to drive at that level of gas. I can avoid all these problems by keeping the tank at least "half-full", that is, by pumping every 120 miles. The car was totaled by a hail storm and I bought it back for $84. I like to operate the vehicle for as long as I can, one day at a time.
View 1 RepliesShe has a 2010 Escape 4-cyl and the A/C isn't working. It's miserable hot and she has small kids.
The compressor won't start. I put a gage set on the low pressure side and it's sky high, so it should be coming on at least. I also used a Launch scan tool on the OBD port and the HVAC control is commanding the compressor to start, so it's not that - which leaves the $300 compressor or the $9 a/c relay as the next steps. Unfortunately, I only see this car occasionally so I haven't really been able to get under it to check for voltage at the a/c compressor or see if it's a ground issue, etc.
I'd like to go after the relay next but can't find a a diagram I trust as to which one it is. I've heard mention that it's the WOT relay and also that there's an A/C Clutch relay. Any reliable schematic of the underhood fuse block and which position it's in? I took the cover off and they're numbered but there's no map. Also, what p/n is the relay? I'd like to just pop in a new one and see if it takes care of it.
The fuel gauge sender quit the other day so Im replacing the pump assembly. I believe in replacing fuel and ignition related parts with factory equipment. So I was going to get a Ford Motorcraft pump, but my wife checked for one through her work(local parts store). The counter guy found one that said original equipment, called them and was told "It is the same pump that gets installed on the assembly line". Well it came in today and its a Delphi. I was expecting a Ford pump. I associate Delphi with GM and I know GM pumps go out all the time. I know Ford pumps go out too, but I know several people with GMs that have replaced pumps multiple times within 100000 miles. Is Delphi worth taking a chance on?
View 6 RepliesBefore I left on Spring Break last week, truck wouldn't start. It was a Saturday morning, so I had it towed to the only open shop in town. He said the fuel pump was going out. He got it started maximizing the fuel pressure with his scan tool.
The unusual thing is I replaced the fuel pump (I have a V-10) earlier this year with a Motorcraft Pump from Amazon. I also replaced the fuel filter about 60,000 miles ago.
Does this sound right? I have never heard of turning up the pump with a scan tool.
It did fine over Spring Break, but is in my driveway right now refusing to start. I can't believe the fuel pump went out that quickly.
Does it sound like the fuel pump?
I have a 2004 f150 fx4 no start.fuel pump doesn't run. I have power at pump connector but the ground has high resistance.did visual on harness and connectors nothing found.I don't have access to a diagram to chase it any further.?
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