Ford - Escape :: 2003 - EGR Valve Blown Out
Jan 28, 2014
This happened on the way to church Sunday morning. Got in cranked up and headed out. Car would not accelerate beyond 40mph and would not shift gears. Drove like this for a few miles and as some others have stated......there sounded like an explosion and then whistling and spewing of air. I pulled over think it was a a radiator or hose issue. Didn't know anything about an EGR valve.....NOT a mechanic. Drove the car back home. Like others have stated......after it blew.....then the car drove just fine. Daughters boyfriend identified the problem.
Bought a new valve and installed. Got out on the highway and had exactly the same problem .......would not accelerate beyond 40 or change gears. Then within 3 miles the EGR valve blew again and then the car drove fine. Needless to say I will NOT be putting on another valve....as that's not my core problem.I was wondering if any of the other Escape owners had determined the cause of the blown valves? At this point, I'm just hoping I can last long enough to buy another car. But I would like to know what type of issue I'm dealing with.
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I will try to make this short but still involve all necessary information. I was driving on the highway last Wednesday when my cruise control went out and i couldnt drive over 25-30 mph, my check engine light did not come on when this happened. I managed to limp the car very slowly about 2 miles down the highway as that was the nearest exit. I took the exit and when i went to "accelerate" at the light i got a loud whooshing sound from under the hood. I pulled into an auto repair shop and found the EGR Valve had a hole blown in side.
Several hundred dollars and several hours later the shop put on a new EGR Valve and had cut the lower cat converter of the car and run a straight pipe where it had been. They said they believed the cat got clogged and built up enough pressure to blow the side out of the EGR. The car ran fine like this for a few days while i waited on my brother in law to gut the cat so we could replace the cat shell as to be within the law, as it is illegal where i live to remove the cat. We gutted the cat and cut out the section it was originally and put the shell back on. The car ran ok for a few hours but then i stopped at a gas station and the check engine light started to blink and the rpms would run way low. When i say low i mean around 1000 at 55mph and would idle around 250, if i put the car in neutral it would idle around 500 but that is still low. What i could look into as the cause of this issue?
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My wife drives a 2008 V6, where is the PCV Valve? Pics ????
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I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
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Replacing part 9C915 ?
"CODE P0443 canister purge fault" diagnosed....
Found: EVAP PURGE FLOW VALVE STICKING
Recommending: "Diag, Replace sensor then retest" ....
They want to install a new 9C915 which they called in hand writing a Canister purge sensor but I've seen it called a canister purge valve on another thread by FIREME who puts 9C915 as "toward the driver's headlight assembly, near the radiator. You'll need an 8mm socket to remove it"...
3.0L DURATEC FFV V6 ENGINE
From the "newly washed ashore" who's now double posting after being flogged for trying to keep this info in a single thread rather than spreading it all over the place...
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I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
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Have a 2012 gas powered Escape XLT, 2.5L 4 cylinder.
I need to replace the evap purge valve. Looking at youtube videos and from other posts it seems easy to replace. My problem is where is it located on this Escape?
Is it under the hood or underneath the driver's side? This is just the valve mind you, not the canister in the back.
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Was cruising on the freeway and all of a sudden my exhaust sounded like it has a leak!!! I gave it some gas and it got louder but the car didn't pull like normal??? No check engine light or anything crazy. I don't think the inter cooler pipes blew off because the engine didn't shut down and I was on cruise mode.
Its sounds like the turbo wants to spool but cant hold boost, can this be the diverter valve leaking or its blown?? I haven't had the chance to check which diverter PN# I have but Im pretty sure its the stock OLD version. I am the 3rd owner. 07 Passat FSi variant with 36K miles.
I hear the 07 FSi are know to have bad or weak Diverters.... I know I needed to go with a stonger TSi Diverter which I hope is the problem here....
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My wife has a 2004 escape v6 (3.0L). The valve cover seal was leaking so I decided, why not change the plugs since I'm already going to have the intake manifold off.
I got down there, replaced the seal (just the front side, didn't want to disassemble something that wasn't broke) and then replaced all 6 plugs and boots (with springs). Fired it up and everything seemed fine. She went to drive to work and the CEL started to flash. I read the code and there were 4 (Don't remember exactly what they were), but it was a combination of things resulting from a misfire in cylinder 4. Since it was one of the front ones. I just pulled the plugged and replaced it hoping I had gotten a dud from the factory. Nope, still doing it.
I didn't take off the fuel lines, just the air intake on the top. I did not change the coils, but everything was running fine before I changed plugs so logic would dictate it is something I did. Only seems to misfire at higher speeds. Also, her battery light randomly comes on, but the battery and alternator test good. This has been happening a while.
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My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. I really need this car to be back on the road again.
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I got an 03 extended cab with triton 5.4 to replace my 1995 f150. no plates yet, just parked in drive. moved it around a few times, ran fine. tonight it wouldn't start. dark, cold, impatient etc... couldn't get air filter apart, drilled hole in plastic, added ether and blew it all into the neighbors yard. sounded like a muzzle loader. nothing usable on it. blew filter holder apart and everything inline. my question, do i replace with stock or get one of these breather kits i read about??? Western motor sports, etc....... Any "digs" well, i deserve them. keep in mind i don't need extra horsepower. I'm an HVAC guy and this is my work truck. i care about mileage.
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My 97 f150 5.4 started missing on 5,6 it had antifreeze on top of the spark plugs but i cant figure out where its coming from my truck has been loosing coolant and it seems like the system is holding pressure because every time i take the cap off the radiator overfill i can hear it hissing then i see the antifreeze level plummet there's no visible leaks that i have seen when the truck is running an missing it steams out the exhaust but when its no missing it doesn't seem to be there's no milky oil or anything the thermostat doesn't seem to be leaking either the truck has over heated a couple times due to the antifreeze disappearing or the temp wont move at all then it shoots all the way to hot and cools down within seconds to normal i just put a new thermostat in. Also it sometimes misses on 4 and my exhaust smells like straight gas i put 4 gallons in it got 29 miles out of it .
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I just bought a used 5.4 for my 99' F150 4X4. My current engine has a blown head gasket. Anyway, I was able to hear the engine run before I bought it, and was able to check it out some. (oil, anti-freeze) I was told that this engine was bought from a salvage yard with 50K, and 50K more put on it before I bought it.
I was also told that the intake manifold is newer, from Autozone, and it has newer Accell coils. My question for you all, is ..... What do YOU think I should do otherwise before I install this engine. Oil pump? water pump? seals? ...
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1997 F150 xlt 4x4 ... When I shift the gear shift lever to below D (2-1) it blows a fuse and I lose instruments. Replacing the fuse is not difficult, just tiresome..
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I have my 4.6L engine on a stand in the garage. I think I have a blown head gasket. I am ready to remove the heads.
My Haynes book says: "Caution:Use the required camshaft retaining fixtures to lock the camshafts and leave the tools in place."
A google search shows nothing. Why, what does it do?
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My 2001 F150 4.6 threw the #3 plug on the passenger side while going down the road at 65 mph. It threaded back in and tightened up to make it the last 7 miles home. I have read that Time serts are the best option but I need this truck daily at work. Has anyone tried using the Heli Coil system as a temporary fix? I am going to order the Time Set kit but since I need the truck now, I was wondering if it were possible to pick up a Heli Coil and insert it until my Time Sert kit arrives?
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My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
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I just purchased a 2003 F150 Supercrew 4.6 that had been wrecked, but somewhat repaired. I knew the owner said it had a blown head gasket. It has water in the oil (small amount asi it is lightly milky) and water starts dripping from the exhaust after it has run for a few minutes. I did not run it long, but throttled it up to warm the engine. It started dripping soot filled water from the exhaust connections. I bought it to put a 4bt in it anyway, but want to sell the motor with the ability to tell the buyer the skinny on it. I drove it on the trailer and off with no apparent loss of power noticeable.
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So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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So the other day my 20amp maxi fuse for my fuel pump decided to blow, put a new one in & everything has been going good since. Is it just a fluke or is this an indication my pump is going out? I inspected wires off the pump & connections for corrosion & that's good, fuel filter is also new about 2 months ago & I always run #1 diesel with a little additive in the winter.
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I don't know what to try next. I have a short somewhere, just don't know how to track it down. I checked the fuse for the drivers seat and it was blown. I stuck a new one in and the thing blew as soon as I stuck it in. I disconnected the seat motors, plugged in a fuse and it blew again as soon as I stuck it in. How to track this down?
I don't see any worn or shorted wires under the seat. I checked under the passenger side kick panel per another post I found, but that looks fine. I don't know where to look or what to test.
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