Ford - Escape :: 2003 - At Start Up Won't Hold A Steady Idle
Jun 4, 2013
2003 Ford Escape V6 ... So . . . my car runs fine almost all the time and I love it. But every couple of weeks when I start her up she won't hold a steady idle. Unless I hold my foot on the accelerator pedal she dies right out. I have had to limp home as she dies at each stop light. I have tried disconnecting the battery to reset the computer but it never seems to work. On the drive home, there will be episodes of misfiring after which the computer will reset itself. (The dash instruments go to zero and then back into normal range while I am driving down the road!) After a couple of resets, the car drives fine the rest of the way and continues fine for a couple of weeks (except for some misfiring at idle).
And at cruising speed there is a chatter behind the dash which sounds like its from the computer--very intermittent and only at around 45-60 mph--it only lasts a few seconds and goes away when I changed speed. The car is great in every other way after 104,000 miles. In the past 12 months, I have changed the thermostat, the plugs, the PCV, the fuel filter, and the air filter. A year ago both Brake Sensor rings cracked so I replaced both CV shafts. The crankshaft position sensor code came on twice and I replaced it twice. I do all my own work but I am stuck in a rut right now.
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So i think I have a bad EGR valve cause I've eliminated o2 sensors, MAF, Spark plugs, coils, vac leaks, Fuel filter, and Fuel injectors. Truck throws P0172 and p0175 code, surges in RPM's at 10 MPH when hold steady on gas pedal, exhaust makes a popping sound like popping popcorn. I reset the PCM and unhooked the MAF and it ran a little better but still get the other symptoms.
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My daughter's automatic DOHC SE Focus had suddenly been stalling, becoming harder to start and not maintaining a steady idle. I took it to our semi-trusted repair shop and was told it needed an EGR valve, plugs, coil, and ignition wires. $580! These all seemed like repairs I could do and so I have worked through all of these. I replaced the EGR valve and that seemed to make the problem actually worse. (so I put the old one back in) I put in new plugs and that improved the idle a small amount. Then I put in the new coil and that seemed to steady the idle a bit more. But here is what I have discovered through my many test drives after making these incremental repairs: The car starts now from cold very well and runs great for the first 20 minutes or so but...when it gets hot after 15 minutes or so of 50 mph driving, the idle drops and the engine wants to cut off. At low revs it seems to stumble and lose power. I think this is what my daughter was experiencing originally and none of my early test drives were long enough to surface the original problem. I have read that the Idle Control Valve might be a culprit in this sort of behavior.
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Tried to start it, it just cranks for a long time, it can't even hold an idle. After 5 minutes of cranking and trying to get it running, it starts up just fine like there isn't even a problem. It just started to happen today. I have a 2004 v6 2.6 glx, completely stock.
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I have a 05 escape hybrid with 75k on it. there is a slight problem every once in a while when it starts the idle jumps up and down and when it is put in reverse it has no power to move. you have to put the pedal to the floor....there are no codes and ford has had the car for a total of three weeks, nothing found and of course it did not act up for them..
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My wife has her 03 escape v6. It has a very rough and low idle. On start up it idles nicely and then the idle drops and pulses if that makes any sense. I've pulled I think its the idle control sensor. It killed the engine as soon as I did. I've cleaned the throttle body.
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When I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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So, just got this car and everything was fine until I had to be somewhere...car started up, ran briefly, died...grrrr.First noticed the check engine light, so I did, it was still there, fresh oil, etc. Then noticed the 'Check Gas Cap' light on, so I did, messed with it. Tried to start the car, same problem, light still on. Messed with the gas cap some more, car started up and stayed on! Yay! But now I'm worried! Bought a new gas cap, but that seems to be a pretty lame reason for the car to die. Any other thoughts or should I just not have bought this car?
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Car not started for 5 months. 50k actual miles. Battery dead and replaced. Engine cranks but will not start. One squirt of starter fluid into air intake and it started immediately. Stopped and started several times (without starter fluid). Drove around block. Stopped and restarted with no problems. Let set for 1 hr. Started but ran only a couple of seconds and died. Will not restart but sounds like it is trying. Did not try more starter fluid again. Checked computer codes and none found. Can hear fuel pump run a few seconds when key turned on. Gas tank almost full but no gas added since last time it ran. Sounds like it is not getting gas?
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My car is almost turning on. It goes all the way but then just doesn't start. The fuel pump is working, can hear it. We checked for spark and there is. we sprayed that carburetor or whatever it is in the air intake thing too and it still didn't start. My buddy is saying that it has to be a sensor. Either O2 or crankshaft something sensor.
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I have a 2003 Ford Escape Limited V6 replaced thermostat and fuel pump and 3 coils and 3 spark plugs recently. Now the theft light has come on and will not crank or start. The fuel pump is still not working unless I manually press the fuse under the hood which is also the only way the car will crank still will not start. That's because the previous owner got the key stuck in the ignition so he bypassed it with a dial you can turn. The dial will put the car into ACC and on mode but will not get the car to crank. Also btn1 and btn2 fuses under the hood are draining my battery.
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After 5 days on raining my escape will not start... It tries but then sounds like the battery goes dead tried jumping it didn't work. Took the battery to be check and it's good...
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2003 Escape Limited V6 Auto 4x4 ... I am having issues with poor fuel milage and starting the SUV...
When i go to start the truck it winds over for abit then starts and revs really high?!?!? I did a complete tuneup, plugs, filter, fuel filter, oil and filter... I changed the fuel pump which has the fuel regulator built into it. I have no codes on the dash. Also if i am at a red light and i put it to the floor I MEAN TO THE FLOOR!!! the truck bogs then drives off NO POWER!!!
Im stumped! I dont know what to do and dont want to keep replacing expensive parts... fuel pump, etc...
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I have a 1997 Ranger with a 3.0 v6 with a super high idle.
It idles at 2500 RPM when the IAC is plugged and a steady 1100 when unplugged. I have replaced the IAC twice now (dropped the first replacement. long story) and and have also checked for vac leaks with no results.
After about 2-3 minutes of idling at 2500 on a cold start it will drop down to 1100 (same as when IAC is unplugged), but after a 10 minutes or so drive it will idle steady at 2500 with minimal if any dropping in RPMs. This is driving me crazy not only because it sounds horrible but also because of the fact it's burning through fuel like it's going out of style.
I have checked the MAF sensor and it looks brand new (not the original owner) along with the O2 sensor. I have been meaning to check the TPS voltage to see if it's working correctly but without a working multi-meter it's making it difficult to do anything.
I'm at a loss with this right now and because of all the previous repairs i have done to it and the others that still need to be done i don't have the biggest budget to fix this problem nor the money the truck is using in gas.
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I have an 03 escape 3.0 4wd that seems to be flooding out. When I start the truck the rpms go up to 4 then it drops down...then drops to nothing and will choke off. If you drive it sometimes it will cut off when driving but this just started happening and after turn the truck after you can smell gas... It not my daily driver I use it to drive on the beach...
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Car won't hold an idle unless I'm on the gas, and even then it only goes to 500 rpm and the second I let off the gas it dies. It also will not go any past 500.
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I have a mystery on my hands and am at a complete loss. I have a 1969 Volkswagen Beetle that will not hold an idle. It will start up just fine and as long as you have your foot on the gas, it will stay alive. As soon as you let off the car sputters and dies. Another symptom is that the is a miss in the engine, not sure if the two are related or need to time it and then check on the idle. Here is what I have done in an attempt to fix the issue:
I have been able to adjust the idle to get it to stay alive for about 30 seconds longer, but no matter ho much I adjust it still struggles and dies. Idles very rough no matter what.
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Replaced the condenser and points (adjusted the points properly etc.)
Replaced and gapped the spark plugs
Replaced the idle cutoff solenoid
Adjusted the automatic choke
Cleaned the carb (not a rebuild or anything, but just gave it a real good spray of cleaner)
Some have suggested a vacuum leak, and i know i have to put some sort of solution on the vacuum connections, but since I am relatively new to the world of VW beetles I am not quite sure where those are and what to put on and what to do if there is a leak.
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I had the car in to replace the inner CV boot and repair a leaking trans flex seal. About 30 minutes after I left the shop, I lost all acceleration and the car basically crawls around. Halfway to work and almost late for meetings, I was afraid it was a failing fuel pump so I rigged both fuel pump relays closed and it seemed to get better... I pulled the relays while at work, re-inserted at the end of the day and headed home. About halfway home the acceleration issues came back (with the rigged relays), and I barely made it to my driveway. Pulled codes, and see these:
16732 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G163)
P0348 - 001 - Short to Plus - MIL ON
18711 - Leak in Air Intake System
P2279 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
16408 - Bank 2: Camshaft B (Exhaust)
P0024 - 008 - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced) - MIL ON
I checked for vacuum leaks and can't seem to find anything tell-tale. I have seen the Camshaft Position Sensor before, but the car ran fine. Probably time to get around to replacing it, but what about the Leak in Air Intake System? Car really hates to idle. Also, MIL is pretty much always on for me due to an unhappy trans that disables ESP.
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My 2006 focus just turned 100,000 miles. Last few months as it started to get cold outside its had issues with not "holding" a start. It seems to make all the normal sounds but won't continue to run. It is progressively getting worse, ie: more frequent and takes more tries to get it started. Yesterday I tried repeatedly and it wouldn't start until I gave it a LOT of gas-this is the worst its been. Previously it would either eventually start after repeated tries or with a little gas. Even on unseasonably warm days its happening now. Both autozone and tireman say the battery (2yrs old), alternator, and starter check out fine.
After lots of online reading here's what I've tried/paid attention to in hopes of narrowing it down.
-Changed spark plugs
-Fuel injector cleaner
-Spare key
-Don't notice security light flashing when it happens or any other random electrical issues
-No strange idle fluctuations
Once its running its fine and seems to start ok for next couple tries even at cold start. Trying to narrow down from IAC valve, PCV valve, throttle position sensor, wiring, ignition switch, fuel pump, etc. Can computer codes read even without warning lights? I have noticed for quite some time that idle has a slightly rougher sound (nothing obvious) but this seems to comes from muffler end and its been in for standard service and never been mentioned as an issue...? Its never stalled at idle or sounded like it was close to stalling/strictly issue with getting it going. I'm trying to determine if its logical that repeated attempts or giving it gas build up more fuel pressure? Or more logical that lots of gas is pushing open something thats clogged up?
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I've got an 83 ranger that has proven to be a bit of a head-ache. For starters it's got a persistent oil leak. It's somewhere in the area of the distributor, intake manifold, block region on the backside of the engine, but I can't get back there to see it.
Secondly, the truck only seems to want to start when I give it gas. Even when I use starter fluid, it will only get to an idle if I hold it to the floor when I turn the key. What this might be?
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I have a really weird issue with my 2003 Ford Focus. Manual transmission, just over 50,000 miles. I've been noticing a stumble or hesitation (like the engine is cutting out) at steady speed, but ONLY when it is snowy out, more if it's windy as well. I don't recall that this happens if it's rainy or foggy. All maintenance is performed as specified, to include air filter changes.
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