Ford - Escape :: 2002 - Engine Knocking When Idling And At Slow Speeds
Aug 12, 2015
2002 Ford Escape XLS 5 Speed, My timing belt was just replaced along with the timing idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. It drove great yesterday but this morning when I was taking my son to school the engine started knocking. It does this idling and at slow speeds. Once driving the noise disappears. What this may be?
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2002 Ford Escape. My car was sitting for a week in cold weather. I started it yesterday with no problem, but only waited for a minute or two before driving. I was driving at city speeds, and heard a knock. I was accelerating up a hill and it hesitated/ jerked once or twice. The check engine light came on, and now it knocks every few seconds when I am stopped at a light. It also doesn't seem to catch the highest gear (5?) when it shifts, making a constant knocking sound and vibrating. Letting go of the gas or accelerating so it shifts back down makes the noise go away. In other gears it seems fine, with an occasional jump... It is an Automatic V6. I am taking the car in Monday, but I would like to know possible causes.
This morning I let my car warm up for 40 minutes (15 minutes in park and 25 idling at the bus stop). The problem was no better. By knock I meant it feels like someone bumped the engine. My foot vibrates on the brake for a second. And when it changes into the highest gear, it shudders ( until I release or further press the gas pedal. The revs don't change while it is shuddering or knocking.
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My wife's 2005 Escape Hybrid has recently started acting up. After a bit of driving at semi-highway speeds (say 10 minutes), when you slow down to a stop- the car stalls out (or what feels like a stall to someone who drives a std transmission car). Sometimes, it comes back on when you turn off & on the car- sometimes it takes a minute of being off to turn back on. After a few cycles of this, the engine temperature warning goes off. After each stall, the car will be ok for a few minutes then stall again when slowing down (it seems to do it when you are under 20mph only- not that I am about to try to stall it at high-speeds). It has circa 70k miles on it, and is obviously in the shop- as it is unsafe to drive. It was a warm day when it first did it (say 80deg), and cooler (50) the next morning.
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I have a '13 SE that I purchased new last year and recently I've noticed a noise in my steering when I am turning the wheel at slow speeds.
It's like a clunking or knocking noise when I turn the wheel either right or left all the way. I'm totally clueless as to what could cause this sort of noises.
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I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
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So my wife was driving our '10 escape xlt and the engine light came on and it displayed the 'check engine' message on the screen. It has 86500 miles and luckily no problems yet. The only thing that has changed was she accidentally put super premium gas in it the other day. The light came on and after she drove it home (about 10-12 miles) and it sat for a few hours and i drove it about 20 miles it randomly went off while it was idling.
I shut it off and let it sit for 20 minutes and then let it idle for a few and it never came back. It has been running ok. We definitely drive it a lot as she works day shift and i work nights. I'm just trying to make sure there's nothing wrong with it. I got a bulletin a while back about the intake getting moisture in it. I didn't know if maybe this could be the beginning of this or something else. This is a whole new territory for me as i consider my 91 f250 'new'
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My SC430 '02 has developed a problem with the VSC. Unfortunately it s not the light but the VSC engages at slow speeds. If I accelerate from low speeds, engine does not rev up and the VSC lights comes on. It works as if I was skidding and tries to correct the direction of the car. Just as it should if I was on ice or experienced aquaplaning, but I am on a dry road. I did a reset of the ECU, had the car at Lexus (they were able to duplicate my issue) for a zero-calibration. They found no problem with the sensors. All did not work. Presently I drive with the VSC disengaged. I do suspect the speed sensors to act up as I had Tein-Coilovers installed, but how can I get to the source of the problem?
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I have an 02 Jetta 1.8t automatic with about 140k miles. It has always been a great car. Last week, I was taking off from being stopped at a light and I heard a loud beep and saw that my oil pressure warning light was blinking! It blinked 3 times and then was gone, now last week temperatures were very low for my area. Today was actually pretty warm and sunny. I was stuck in gridlock traffic, it took me 25 minutes to go 1/4 mile. Idle, Idle, creep forward... Idle, Idle, creep forward...etc.
I noticed that the temp gauge read over 200, not in the red, but too close for my liking. Then a moment later when it was time for me to move up a bit, there was a beep and then that low oil pressure light again, 3 blinks and gone. I was panicked. I shut my engine off while I waited for traffic to move and when I would move forward it was the same thing. I finally pulled over, as I was stuck in traffic about 1000 feet from a friends house. I stayed there for 4 hours and then decided to fire her up again. Totally normal.
40 Minutes later as I rolled into my driveway, boom there was that light blink again... I am really concerned but confused by the light not staying on continuously and not having the check engine or any other warning light ever come on. It's weird to me that when this happens I am either taking off or coming to a stop, never going more than 5mph.
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My truck has grinding noises when i am making turns from a stop or at slow speeds. Also my 4x4 dash light keeps flashing several times both when I am sitting still and when driving. Neither my 4x4 auto or 4x4 high work but the low will work. Trying to pinpoint where I should look to fix them. I did replace the 4x4 control mod as an attempt to fix this.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L Diesel with about 72,000 miles on it. It has been the best truck ever, but just about two weeks ago it started doing something real strange. While driving, and it seems to only be at slow speeds, (idle or just accelerating), the truck will shut off the engine. And it is always in this order, it will first "pop" all the speakers real loud, then the radio will reset, (go to the AM radio and shuffle through my 6 disc changer) and then the engine will shut off.
Once I bring the truck to a stop and put it into park, it will then start back up with no problems at all. There is nothing I can seem to piece together as to when it will do it other then it seems to only be at slow speeds... Besides that, it is completely random. One day it did it four times, and then it didn't do it for the next few days at all... The only thing that has changed over last 2 weeks is that, the last few times that it has done it, it didn't kill the engine, it still popped the speakers like normal and then reset the radio, but didn't shut off the engine.
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I was driving this morning after doing a brake job (nothing to do with the problem, just anger coming out) made it about 10 kms and noticed when i took my foot off the accelerator, the heater fan powered down a bit, and back up when I gave it gas...noticed a knocking sound from the engine...pulled into a gas station and put it in park. After a hard time idling, it cut out. I started it again and the idle was not good at all. kept cutting out. Got it going and made it home with the same sort of power issue. Tried to start it a couple times and same issue with the idle. Sputtering quite a bit and noticed quite a bit of exhaust coming out. When I backed it out of the garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil.
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I have yet another issue with my Hyundai Accent. It seems to me that I hear engine valve knocking. Here tech. details:
- This happens around 1100-2000 rpm.
- The car currently has 11500 KM.
- 3 oil changes so far - using Mobil 1 - 10W30.
- I put in regular gas.
- No mods, only bug guard.
I drive slow - slow acceleration and I noticed sometime ago that there was a knock coming from an engine at about 1400-1700 RPM, however now I can hear it anywhere from 1100 to 2000 rpm. I can hear it very well when I drive along curbs and walls since engine sound bounces off it. I have automatic gear box and therefore I don't know how to test it further ( on manual I would have put some load on the engine by switching into high gear and pressing gas - make engine struggle a bit ). It might be noise from injector but I don't know. Also I don't know if Accent 2010 has self-adjusting valves or not.
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2006 Passat 2.0T ... Took the car for an oil change (non VW dealer) a few weeks back and about a week after the car started experiencing some vibrating/shaking from, I assume, the engine. This only occurs when the car is idling or at very low speeds.
It wasn't a typical shaking from side to side that you'd experience from most engines. The car was jumping front to back. It almost felt like stalling a manual transmission car. The revs jump slightly, about 100-200 rpm. It feels like the car wants to lurch forward and break free of the brakes. Now on some days this isn't a problem and on other days it's an issue.
Engine noise is a bit louder than usual. Sounds like the belts or the fan, but nothing is lose and the fan is working. I don't feel like all the power is there either, especially in lower gears and on take offs.
Ran the diagnostics, it didn't bring up anything other than some issues with the spark plugs and the coils. They were replaced but nothing changed with the problems. I have noticed oil level drop but there are no oil leaks anywhere.
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2001 with the 3.1 6cyl. First thing that started this nightmare is I was noticing a bit of a hiccup after driving for a couple miles. We've only had the car a few months and not sure what maintenance was done so we thought maybe it needed a tune up. Before I got the parts the check engine light came on so I went to parts store to get it read, it was P0302.
Did the wires and plugs and it got worse, the code wasn't p0302 now its just p0300. But after the plugs it also started idling really rough and would be slow to shift. Once it tacked up high and wasn't speeding up. That was only once tho. Also now it has no power its like driving a 2cyl ...
Anyway we decided since the first code said 2 we replaced coil 2, no luck..ok, fuel filter and fuel injector 2, no luck. Also has cleaned various things Im not sure of the technical name for..sensors and air filters and other things.
None of this has worked the car still idles very bad and doesn't have the power it should have. Also cleaned things on fuel rail(?). He is in the process of replacing the crank sensor as someone said if it was all the way bad it would throw a different code but it may just be faulty.
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My daughter has a 2002 Escape 4WD with 3.0L engine.
Coming home from school a few weeks ago she experienced engine running rough on the highway when trying to accelerate. We ran the diagnostic on it and it revealed that #2 cyl coil was misfiring.
I've replaced all of the rear bank coils (in hopes that I wouldn't have to remove the intake manifold again anytime soon). I also replaced the connectors and weatherproofed them.
Replaced all the plugs while I had easy access too. This all went pretty smooth with exception of breaking 3 of the 5mm coil bolts off inside the valve cover. I've also replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.
It runs much better now except now on the highway, at 1800 rpm/55 mph if I try a gradual acceleration I get engine sputtering and it won't accelerate. If I push hard on the pedal it will downshift and accelerate normally right past this trouble spot. Other than this it idles and runs great.
I've noticed that the 3/4 in. vac hose on back of manifold is getting pinched closed about 70%. this is the hose that leads down to the top of engine just below lower manifold. I suspect this is the problem but cannot determine the root cause. I assumed it was the intake manifold gaskets but those are now replaced.
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I have 02 Limited 4.6 with 128k and upon startup there's no noise (sometimes misfire, due to oil in plug wells, gonna change the intake mani and coils soon). Shortly after it warms up - 5 minutes or so there is a constant ticking at idle...I can't really tell if its there upon acceleration as I can't notice it with the window open when I'm driving, but as soon as I slow down and/or idle I hear it again.
If I let the car sit for a few hours, or while I'm at work, it starts up perfectly fine, no noise.
I tried the long screw driver trick - putting it to different parts of the engine and placing my ear over the handle, and didn't really notice anything different from any part of the engine. I had it up on my lift, and it almost sounded like it was coming from the rear - near the tranny, but what the hell would tick back there? and how do I diagnose that?
I dropped the oil pan when I first got it and there was a very little amount of black rubbery stuff - presuming its timing chain guide/tensioner related, but no chunks, not really any metallic shimmer in the oil, so I guess it could be that, I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and inspect - but like I said, didn't notice anything with the screwdriver trick....I'm at a loss
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Ive got an 02 2wd escape with the v6. Its been an excellent truck until here recently. The wife has had a weird problem twice now, that I have been unable to reproduce. She says the check engine light and low oil light come on and she loses power steering. Shutting it off and restarting fixes the issue.
Took a 400 mile road trip with it last weekend and never had an issue. Only thing I noticed , the readiness meters never went ready. Even after that trip, It still shows a systems not ready code.
Tonight the wife had the issue again. Shutdown and restart fixed it. Battery cables are clean and tight, several grounds were freshly cleaned a couple months ago.
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ACCessory power (Key On) 12v can take anywhere from 2 minutes to 10 minutes after the engine is on. Haven't tried leaving key on engine off for that long, but I would assume it would eventually give power to ACC too.
There is the greenishyellow and black wire to the sound system which is supposed to be key on 12v, and the lower power port (cig lighter type) only gets power after key on.
Its been doing this for years...and I swear it happened after one night of leaving the lights on. Battery has been replaced since, but ever since that once time.
It does always come on, eventually. Doesn't matter if warm or not. If you turn off key, it takes random 2 to 10 minutes to get power back to ACC.
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My truck is idling terribly and knocks while doing so, little info is
The truck has 170k miles, I just bought it about two months ago and it was running perfect, drove it to the beach two or three times (4 hour drive) no problems whatsoever. Two weeks ago I noticed it start rocking a bit at idle ONLY when warm, check engine light came on so I ran the code and it said the Cam shaft positioning sensor was bad so I replaced both of those, then the next code I got was for the vct solenoids, replaced both of those and the problem is still persisting. It is odd to me in the fact that when its cold, it runs flawlessly, no problem accelerating/idling/maintaining speed/smoke nothing at all.
As soon as it gets warm it will still do everything flawlessly EXCEPT idle. the idle rpm is around 300-400 and it rocks and knocks terribly.. If i am stopped and I apply some throttle in park or nuetral, just enough to get the rpm up to around 800-900, its perfectly fine. no more rocking no more knocking but as soon as i let my foot off the gas it goes right back to feeling like its going to fly out from underneath the hood.
So my question is why is this? What on earth is going on here? and how do I fix it? And why is there not a manual idle control. Ford place said there was likely damage to the head and recommended a full engine replacement.
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Having ABS issue with my 2004 Ford Escape XLT.
A bit of background information: every now and then (usually when decelerating from around 35-40mph), I will get a pulsating/knocking feeling from my brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the ABS, as I was told about a year ago that the ABS tone ring was broken. The more the problem manifested itself, the more I got to study it a bit. The pulsating/knocking in the pedal is usually accompanied by a very dry rubbing sound, and both the sound and the pulsating seem to be in direct relation to the motion of the wheels. I took it to the local garage this weekend and they recommended changing out the rear brakes - this made sense to me, as they haven't been changed out for as long as I have had the car.
Got the car back about an hour ago - on my way home, the pulsating came back when I was coasting into a stop light. The pulsating seems to have no affect whatsoever on the stopping distance of the car - a few times when it has happened, I have mashed the pedal, and the car comes to a quick stop just as you would want it to. After coming out of a complete stop, the brakes will work completely fine for a while - there seems to be no real rhyme or reason to what makes it happen.
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Getting a fuel smell especially when 2004 3.0 escape is idling. Is there a replaceable evap filter or maybe the pcv valve?
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